BanjoMan Report post Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) This is my first attempt at a motorcycle seat and any feedback would be helpful and appreciated! So far my main focus has been on making holsters and related accessories, so this was definitely a bigger job than what I'm used to. The seat belongs to a friend of mine and fits a Harley-Davidson Street Bob. I used 3-4 oz. veg-tan leather that I got from SLC for the top and the skirting and I used calf lace to hold it together. After tooling and lacing, I wet the skirting and hand stretched the cover to form to the seat. I used Fiebing's walnut pro-oil dye, applying the first coat with a dauber and blocking the second coat in order to get more of an antiqued look. After dye, I applied a coat of neatsfoot oil, then resolene, then bag-kote, and finally a coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish, allowing around 24 hours between application of each product. The only real issue I had during the entire process was during the stretching. I had excess in the skirt that I could not pull out, which resulted in having to overlap the skirt at the back corners of the seat. Looking back, I should have cut out the excess and laced up the cuts, leaving a vertical seam at each back corner. Overall, I am pleased with the seat since this is my first one and I definitely learned a lot that I can apply to my next one. Not to mention, the seat looks GREAT on the bike! Please let me know what you think! Edited April 28, 2011 by BanjoMan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BanjoMan Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Here are a few more pics... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
outcast Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Here are a few more pics... Banjoman, overall the seat looks good, The lacing is excellent, however those puckers are unacceptable, & that seat would never leave my shop like that. Sometimes you have to wet mold, but that could have been done right the first time. Also, 3 oz leather that has been carved on is also not acceptable. Your tooling isn't deep enough. You need at least 5-6 oz on top if carving & tooling are involved. 3-4 on the sides are cool unless yer gonna do the sandwich thing like in Dave's seat tutorial...then use 5-6 on the bottom also, & use a basketweave lacing pattern. It's ok to trash it, & start over. I do it all the time while trying to step up to another level, or trying something out of my comfort zone. I just won't SETTLE less than I know I can do....cuz my customers pay for my best work not my practice stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eaglestroker Report post Posted August 22, 2011 The lacing looks great, and I really like the color! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scary Leatherworks Report post Posted August 23, 2011 The lacing looks nice, color is nice also, I'll have to try some of the pro oil dye I like some of the colors. As Outcast said the 3oz may be too thin for the top, although I use it for the sides (skirt) when wet molding a seat. Unfortunately you sealed and weather-proofed the seat already because those 2 wrinkles could have been worked out. I find that really wetting it a lot helps then I stretch it/mold it as much as I can, which usually ends up with some wrinkles and folds similar to yours. I let is sit over night to dry then remove my temporary holding screws a few inches around the wrinkles re-wet the wrinkle and re-stretch. Usually a few times of this and all the wrinkles and creases are gone. I use short hex head screws #8 it think (takes a 1/4" socket) to temporarily attach my leather when wet forming. That makes it easier to work it all out. then when it's all dry I remove them one at a time a replace them with rivets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
