stitch quality

[esantoro]

back in the antediluvian era (pre-crash), there was a thread on which machines put down the best stitch.

i thought it would be interesting to post some pics of what we think is nice stitching. We can include machine used, thread, needle brand and point type, leather type and thickness.

I'll post some of my pics later today.

ed

[pella]

If i can find a machine that can stitch fine points on bridlework, let me know! I want to find a machine that can stitch very close to hardware, especially buckle, (is that possible!?) and a machine to stitch raised work on bridles (noseband and browbands).

For now, all my work is hand-stitched, like below, that a corse example using 8 point to the inch and heavy thread, 18/5

[esantoro]

If i can find a machine that can stitch fine points on bridlework, let me know! I want to find a machine that can stitch very close to hardware, especially buckle, (is that possible!?) and a machine to stitch raised work on bridles (noseband and browbands).

For now, all my work is hand-stitched, like below, that a corse example using 8 point to the inch and heavy thread, 18/5

Beautiful work, Pella. What did you use for your creases.

What you do with your work is where I want to take my bags: Elegant Simplicity, which requires a lot of attention to basic details.

My two cents is that in addition to the right machine, one would also need the right combination of needle plate and presser foot/toes.

ed

[pella]

thank you esantoro. This is wickett & craig harness leather (beautiful feel by the way) and i use orborne crease #5 for that piece. I use to crease when leather is damp, but i cant remember for that halter? Harness leather can be creased dry, it is so soft compare to UK leather.

[esantoro]

thank you esantoro. This is wickett & craig harness leather (beautiful feel by the way) and i use orborne crease #5 for that piece. I use to crease when leather is damp, but i cant remember for that halter? Harness leather can be creased dry, it is so soft compare to UK leather.

Pella,

I'm thinking of creasing some veg tan belts later tonight. When you wet the leather prior to creasing, to you wet the entire surface or just the area to be creased? With the veg tan, i imagine I'll need to wet the entire surface to avoid any uneven discoloration.

ed

[pella]

Esantoro:

I do wet the entire surface. You need to immerge the piece in a warm water for a certain time depending on leather, for un-oiled veg-tan, that's fast, less than a minute. You dont want the piece to be completely soaked. You leave the piece for drying a little bit, like if you want to carve leather, usually i place it in a bag for a while then i do other stuff. Then you crease, you can puch slot and holes then too. After, you can finish the edges, you will know when leather will be ready to be "burnished" when it squeak while burnishing. If leather is too wet, it do not work, wait a little bit then try again, if too dry, use a sponge to wet the edge only. You need to wait leather is completely dry for stitching or riveting (the day after), because leather expand when wet...

good creasing!

[esantoro]

Esantoro:

I do wet the entire surface. You need to immerge the piece in a warm water for a certain time depending on leather, for un-oiled veg-tan, that's fast, less than a minute. You dont want the piece to be completely soaked. You leave the piece for drying a little bit, like if you want to carve leather, usually i place it in a bag for a while then i do other stuff. Then you crease, you can puch slot and holes then too. After, you can finish the edges, you will know when leather will be ready to be "burnished" when it squeak while burnishing. If leather is too wet, it do not work, wait a little bit then try again, if too dry, use a sponge to wet the edge only. You need to wait leather is completely dry for stitching or riveting (the day after), because leather expand when wet...

good creasing!

Pella,

Do you think sponging the leather with water will be enough, or must I really submerge the whole piece. For belts, I wouldn't mind submerging the leather, but I am not so sure about larger leather pieces for briefcases.

Thanks for the advice,

ed

[jimsaddler]

Don't wet the Leather, warm the Crease. This will leave a permanent crease that is burnished. Jim saddler more later.

[pella]

well...yes, tel us more, i learn this technique at school with french teachers but for chrome leathers, with a hot crease but the osbore crease is not really made to be heated like french or english ones. When i begin saddlery work, i notice heating the creaser crack the leather, i guess it was too hot, but so tricky to get to a good temperature, i just "cold crease" now. The disavadtage of cold crease is that it disapear with use (like reins, leashes) so if you tell me a way to improve my technique, i listen to you :-) always open to amelioration

Please indicate, for which leather you recommend your technique.

[tonyc1]

Don't wet the Leather, warm the Crease. This will leave a permanent crease that is burnished. Jim saddler more later.

Yes, that's all I've ever done on english bridle and harness, heat the creaser over a small gas flame and it will give a good finish!