reuben cogburn Report post Posted May 29, 2011 Hi guy's Let me start by saying I did a search but did find an answer! I'm going to be building a billeted belt for a guy. I've only done one (for me) so I'm not sure what the formula should be... the customers measurements are 56.5 inches.... hense part of the need for billeted. It will be wide as it is a gunbelt to be used in CAS events. How much overlap is used? and how much should the tongue overlap the belt as well. I don't think this guy will gain any more weight as he really wants to get into this CAS shooting and wants to get into better shape. I'm going to use a segmented borderstamping pattern that will match the rest of the stuff I've built him, but allow for shortening without looking butchered. If any of you guy's could give me a formula, I'd appreciate it! Thanks much and have a great holiday weekend! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 29, 2011 If I were making it for him, . . . the blanks (I only do lined belts) would both be heavy 7/8 leather. I only made one like this for a guy who was a 52 inch waist, . . . so I am not quite up into your league Anyway, . . . the blanks for your guy would be 66 inches long, . . . and no less than 3 inches wide. I always place my buckle billet so that the finished buckle inside lip is dead even with the leading edge of the belt. Look through the buckle, . . . make sure it is even. The tongue billet should be fixed and placed on the end of the belt so that the center hole (I always use 7 holes spaced 1 inch apart) measures exactly the same as your customer's belt, . . . PLUS 4 INCHES. ...................... DON'T FORGET THE 4 INCHES. My overlap from the first hole to the end of the billet is about 3 1/2 inches, . . . it all depends on how it is going to be done to finish it. Take a look at the diagram, . . . holler if you have any questions. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted May 30, 2011 If you're cutting from hide, you just need to decide on the belt width.....if you don't have a side to cut from, call up Springfield and order a stirrup strap. Call them because on the phone you can tell them you want a really nice back on it. I've done this and got a 12-14oz strap with a back that was pretty much suede. If you want it lined....call them and tell them you want two. And split both of them to half the desired overall thickness... case, tool, dye, antique, seal, stitch, finish, and you're done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
reuben cogburn Report post Posted May 31, 2011 Thanks for the input... I'm using a good piece of heavy 9/10 oz for the belt. I really don't want to deal with a laminate as I'm intending on this belt getting shortened as the customer's health improves and he loses weight. The blank is 2.5 inches wide (it has to allow his holsters and accessories to be used.) He is a very regular customer and has spent bunches of $$$ so I want to make it versatile. He is on a fixed income as well, so I just don't want to build him a belt and expect him buy keep buying new ones as his health inproves.... But I really need to get it right the first time... leather is just to spendy... i've dowloaded the diagram and will consult it as I go... Thanks y'all... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted June 1, 2011 Rueben, . . . you can still make him a laminated belt, . . . and it WILL be a better product for him. Start your bullet loops back around in the left side, . . . leaving just enough open leather for his cross draw rig if he uses one. As he loses weight, . . . you only move the tongue billet on the other end , . . . and re-sew and burnish the right end of the belt, . . .should take all of about 15 minutes. I won't do a single layer belt for any of my customers, . . . unless the bullet loops are sewn on, . . . and so far I have talked every one of them out of that. Line it with some 3/4 or 4/5 leather, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thecapgunkid Report post Posted June 3, 2011 The safest thing I have found to do for guys who are going to lose weight, or rotund cowboys, is not to stitch the billet to the belt. I'll set two rows of lacing holes where each hole is 3/4 inches apart and where the two rows are also 3/4 inch apart. I'll make eight sets of holes on the belt and four on the billet. If I am l;acing with deerskin, then I'll make 3/8 inch holes with 1/4 inch thick lacing where the lace is tapered and stiffened at both ends The seven hole idea in the billet for the buckle pin is sound thinking. So is the idea of putting the inside rim of the buckle, where the pin hits it, exactly on the edge of the belt. When I lace the billet to the belt, I will start by making the traditional "X". However, I will feed the left lace up through the right hole and right lace up through the left hole where my "X" ended. In this way I have a tight series of continuous "X" lacings. XXXX. The tightness of the lacing on an inch to one inch and 5/8 billet adds a more professional look, and the billet then becomes adjustable because the four holes of the billet will ride up and down the eight holes on the belt. Most of my customers bring back my work when they want it re-buffed or adjusted, anyway, and I can stay in touch with them that way. In the last Cowboy shoot I was in, one of my customers told me that she had to have the belt I made for her taken in twice because she was losing weight for her pending wedding. Cowboy shooters tend to be of an age where we gain and lose weight by design, and I could see where the adjusted belt was downright mauled by the replacement stitches the local shoe repair guy had moved everything. Do a search on John Wayne's gunbelt and you will stumble upon one ratty looking thing that he wore in several movies where the billet was laced to the belt with the same style lacing found on saddle cinch straps. If that can hold for the big guy then your tight lacing on your billet will hold for King Kong. Hope this helps Don't shoot yore eye out, kid, The Capgun Kid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted June 4, 2011 Thank you, Capgun, . . . that is a really good idea. Matter of fact, . . . might even do one of those in the near future, . . . just to see how it is received by the guys here. Most folks I know in my age group seem to trade pounds, . . . one loses 15 while the other gains 15, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
reuben cogburn Report post Posted June 5, 2011 There won't be any bullet loops on the belt. Just a standard belt. all of the ammo pouches or cartridge slides will be mix and match. This rig is actually for CAS matches, and they all are using slides.. My original thought was to use a shorter tongue, and fit it closely, so that when it came time to shorten it, I could just cut out the old and not have to "repair" anything. Of course I'd have to make several adjustments until he got down to his fightin weight. And I would not sew the tongue, but use an alternate method. I've made many many field belts out of single heavy weight hide without any issues. Please note that I carry a Ruger 44 BlackHawk and extra ammo as well as a knife, EVERY DAY. I live remote in Alaska bear country. My 1 3/4" gun belt gets more use than probably anybody I know. My gun is always on the belt.. except when I change clothes. Honestly, I'm not trying to be a wise a** or anything. I honestly do carry a big gun every day, as do many of the people I know, here. I know everybody has their preferences, and I wouldn't want to disuade anyone from doing what they feel comfortable with. But in all do respect I feel a single ply belt to be fine as long as the hide is of proper weight and density. Thanks all, for the help. I can always count of good solid advice here, even if I ignore it!!!..... ciao y'all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
