reuben cogburn

I've been doing a lot more mountainman/primitive stuff just because i wanna.. However everything has been either dyed with modern dyes or neatsfoot oiled. What would a person in the 1800's have used on a calfskin pouch or other cowhide product? They didn't run down to tandy..... I know of using coffee and tannins, but what other things that you'd have around the homestead or cabin would have been used to color/protect the item? Thanks y'all...

That sounds like it might be very useful... My main gripe about the Boss is the inability to do gussets and the short arm..... At $75 it is an investment for me that is for sure!.. Any pics of projects??

Yes the Tandy store in Anchorage has new owners. I'm not saying they are giving me "bad" leather... I'm more saying that the lower 48 is sending up the leftovers! I am having real trouble getting consistent leather, though I only buy a few times a year. I've gotten sides I can't make anything I can justify selling to a customer, and many of the hides have wide inconsistencies in the same hide. I know David Johnston at Diamond D won't use them anymore. I'm kinda stuck.. I should dye a bit of it and get a measurement with my calipers and post pics. I can't even sew it after dying, with my tippmann because the leather gets so incosistent with the stitching. I try and sew everything before dying, but if you need white thread on dark leather what do you do.. (other than hand sew)... ciao y'all...

Anybody have/use this attachment?... Any pics of projects or inovative ways you have used it? Results up or down? I don't plan on doing any stirrups but I'd like to know if a holster/belt/pouch guy could use such a critter.. Thanks much...

I am up here in Alaska and have very limited access to leather. We have two stores. One is a Tandy Store where I buy wholesale, and another is a store which I believe also buy's, then resells Tandy leather. What I have found is that I lose thickness in my leather after dying it. Sometimes a significant amount 30% or so? Even with 9/10 oz leather I lose enough, that I have been lining my holsters with 2oz to make up the difference. I don't really mind because it makes a much better looking holster. However it is a problem, as I can't "line" everything.... Is anyone else experiencing this with any brand leather?? Or is it just the leather that ends up getting sent up here? I have had some serious quality issues with hides and have gotten to the point I either drive 110 miles to hand pick, or I am getting out of leatherwork. I'm a small fry and can't place an order big enough to get anything shipped in from down south... Regards...

I gave up modifying my patterns to suit others.. I got tired of losing $$ on the jobs. If I have a pattern, it is built that way. No substitutions. I had a customer dislike my replacement because it was built better than the piece of junk she bought in Guatamala (seriously).... She needed it replaced because it was under built tourist junk...

Has anyone used a Tippmann for mocs or mukluks??

I want to start sewing with some 277 thread... I mainly use 346, but I want to start running some smaller items with thinner thread. I have some needles for the tippmann but they are shorter than the regular needle that handles the 346 thread. Do these work in the tippmann?? They came in the accessory case, but since I bought the machine used I don't know if they are original. The 346 thread does not go through the eye... When I install one of the needles, it does not reach the bottom of the needle bar. It doesn't seem like it will work right... Any help?? It seems as though the smaller needle would be the same length, just in a smaller diameter.... thanks y'all

To my friend across the pond. The bolt handle, or charging handle is the piece that sticks out of the bolt. The part you grab onto to pull the bolt back and load the chamber. There are a lot of names for it depending on manufacturer, region where one lives etc.... However it isn't to be confused with the type of bolt handle on a bolt cation rifle. They perform the same function but look and operate differently. I understand the carry/transport requirements where you live. We have area's here in the States, that are much the same. However here in Alaska many people carry both handguns and rifles/shotguns openly. It is not uncommon to see people walking downtown carrying firearms (myself included, at times). This scabbard is intended to be lashed (strapped in this case), to the wing struts of the customers airplane. Since his cabin is basically accessible only by plane. It (the plane) is small, so he lashes some gear to the wing struts. This particular shotgun is indeed a semi automatic, in riotgun configuration. A short 20" (or so) barrel with full magazine tube (7 rounds I think), with aperture rear sight.. basically rifle sights.. This shotgun is intended as bear protection as we have a fair number of large brown bear up here. Although it seems the black bear tend to be the more destructive to ones property. So security is very important! I have the pattern cut. Slightly over size.. I hope!!.... and dyed, as I'm using a heavy white nylon thread. I'm going to dress it up a litle it, but it is going to get pretty beat up pretty quick.. So sturdy is the main theme.. I will posts when I an... Thanks much all and regards...

Very cool! So simple I would have never would have thought of it! I'm not sure why I tend to overthink things, when they seem to be the easiest answers... I'm going to start making a few laminated belts. Usually I just use saddle skirting, and that has always worked good, but I thought I'd do something new and different. Hand stitching??..... you can do that??..

How do I layout a decorative stitch on a belt? I don't see any templates at Tandy. Who sells them? How does one make one? I did several searches here but found nothing.. This is what I'm looking to do.... http://www.rossleather.com/m91s-decorative-stitch-suede-lined-ranger-belt-p-100.html Thanks.....

I actually have the book! But it is up at my homestead at the moment and I have no access. However much of the problems have been eliminated... Now there will be two scabbards.. One for rifle.. one for shotgun... I think I've got it figured out! Thanks!!

Here is another interesting development... He wants the scabbard to serve both as rifle and shotgun... Shotgun has 21" barrel, ghost ring sights, and extended mag tube.. Rifle has 24" barrel and a scope.. bolt action... Now I'm thinking the contour for the scope is the main issue for the moment.... Maybe run the seam along the top rather than the bottom. That would make the pattern easier to lay out. I cut out a tiny rifle out of leather, and I'm gonna do a small mock-up, out of some 3oz I have.... It must look good as well as function, as it will have my name on it...

Good points made.... Lots of things get brittle up here!...... Kolpins cases, totes and many plastics crack in temperature extremes. As me how I know! Yes, the bolt handle is like the ones pictured. I'd post pics but my digital went kablooie, during my raft ride back to town this spring.... Thanks for the offer to beld some metal. I have 11 years experience in press operation so I know the drill... I may use some tin I have lying around. Old rolled roofing that has come in handy for stuff. I'm still wanting simple.. for assembly, and potential repairs.... Thanks y'all....

I could definetly just mold a channel, but it wouldn't hold up long. not with the abuse it is going to get. Thats why I figured if I did it that way I'd support it with a bit of light metal. Like a steel lined quickdraw holster.... He wants it in leather.. I'm sure a Kolpin would suffice. He has been using a much modified old leather rifle scabbard but it is pretty much shot. He wants something more custom??.. I guess..... to fit his Benelli riot gun. I guess I'd rather make the $$$ than walmart.. And I love a good challenge... Or so I keep telling myself! And, he is a regular customer. This is the first scabbard of this type for me. Other than the bolt handle, it is pretty straight forward. I just want it to look and work properly.. Thanks for the input!!

I might have to do a search and take a look at one. I wasn't aware they made one like that. The bolt handle position on the carbine would be in a similar position..

He wants as much enclosed as possible as the scabbard will be lashed to the wing struts of his bush plane (outside!). Describing this is kinda difficult.. I'll try and get some pics up.... This bolt handle isn't like one on a rifle. It is just a knob that sticks out, and it sits far forward of where a bolt on a rifle would. It can be removed, but would be easy to misplace. If I cut a slot it would be halfway up the side of the scabbard. It would compromise the structural integrity as well.... This shotgun is used as bear protection in Alaska. The pilot doesn't want to have to worry about partially disassembling the gun to put it in the scabbard, or in case he needs the gun quickly!. I also thought of sewing some type of spacer on the inside that let the handle ride inside a channel. I'm experimenting with scraps right now. This is going to be an...................... interesting..............project......

I'm designing/building a scabbard for a guy. Technically it is for a shotgun. The issue I'm having is that the charging handle (bolt handle/knob) on the shotgun is an extended enlarged variety. I want to do something other than just allow more room in the scabbard by making it a big large, but I don't want it to be to complicated to assemble. Anybody ever encounter a situation like this? I thought of cutting a long slot in the scabbard, then sewing in a formed piece over the slot. I could use a pice of aluminum etc and sandwich it between two thin pieces, form it, then sew that onto the scabbard, but that is hitting the complicated end. I'd rather explore options as there may be something "easy"...

Thanks much for the links...... I'm going to get them my tax numbers and get the project going!! regards....

Are there any suppliers of reindeer hides in the U.S.A.????? It MUST BE REINDEER for this project.. I see suppliers in Finland, but would like to give U.S. the first chance.. I have LIMITED internet time, and a SLOW connection, so searching can be frustrating.. Thanks!!

Well... the wages here aren't much different than anyplace else actually. An average blue collar wage averages from $10/hr plus... gas is $3.89 gal... Mechanics make $65-$90 hr... The only harness/saddle guy moved to Hawaii a few years ago, as he was tired of the cold.... I was thinking $15/hr plus material with a minimum. Most of the dog harness is webbing these days and a medium harness can be picked up for about $20+.... My roof is paid for.. my saddler sticher works good and I can sew a harness that my Karelian can't break... but it isn't rocket science either.... it is pretty simple stuff... regards...

I also posted this in "how do I"... I've been doing just a bit of harness repair/alteration, and would like to do more... What would be a good hourly rate that would encourage repair vs replacement.... I live in mushing country and there are also horse people here.. Any thoughts? Thanks..

I've been doing some repair/alteration work on harness and straps. I'd like to get more as I live in a mushing area, etc. But am not sure how to price it out. I'm putting up flyers, but need to determine an hourly rate that incentives repair vs replacement, but don't want to work for free.... What do you guy's charge?? p.s. sorry if this isn't in the right spot.... please ove as needed regards...

I'm a part-time leather dude, looking for piece work from somebody in the fulltime biz, who has those nagging little items to be build that are just distracting. I'm a full time homesteader in the Alaska mountains, and I want to stay on my homestead in my hills as much as possible. I have my own line of "stuff", but haven't found my real nitch yet. I sew with a Tippmann, and can supply pics.... Will sign a no compete agreement as long as it cuts both ways.... email me @ dillfarmer@yahoo regards... Bill