reuben cogburn

I've been wanting to get started building mocs for awhile now. I've collected a few pieces of seude hide to practice with. I'm still debating on sole construction though. I want my mocs (at least the first ones), to be built using as traditional/primitive methods as I can. However I want to be able to use them on real ground. I was thinking of using Deer tanned cowhide for the bottom with an 8oz cowhide inner sole, glued inside?... I've been searching here but not really finding what I'm looking for. My patterns are based on Tandy's boot moc patterns, but i'm sort of combining a few idea's that I like.. Anybody have any pics or idea's or experiences? I don't have a really good sewing machine yet, just a few singers/new home dressmaker type machines, which i don't think will really work here. And of course the BOSS.. but that isn't a good machine for this either... Help? Thanks! ciao... reuben...

Hi, I'm not disputing any of the advice here at all. In fact it has brought to mind things I certainly didn't consider. well.. here is the keychain (lighter not included!).. mat'l is 2.5" x 3", 4/5 oz, with a tab .5" x 2" (folded).. one segma snap.... and just a dab of neatsfoot and some good old sunshine... finish is either atom wax or similar.... These things aren't artsy or even creative!.. I see them as a puely functional accessory. Basically something you would grab in the checkout line at the store. An idea that I think is worth merit! I think that wholesale, it would be worth exploring...at least for volumne...

I'll be taking a bunch of pics today.. I need to list some things online to sell.. I'll post the keychain. very very simple. Very utilitarian... and NOBODY steals your lighter! Regards!

Thanks for the input. I gave that example priarily because I recently calculated the material cost etc, for the wholesale and fleamarket crowd. I'd figure on this being a handy item more than a craft etc. The whole reason I built one in the first place was because everybody would steal my lighter, the minute I set it down.. Now I live in Alaska, and I do carry at least one lighter even though I don't smoke! I also figure the keychain functions as a business card of sorts.... an impulse buy at the counter, and a tourist bobble.... more of a useful novelty! These guys are plain, of course... one that is border stamped or tooled would obviously be more. However these are in no way art!.. these are just.. assembled... Thanks again and I hope there are more contributions and opinions! reuben....

I, like a lot of other people here are trying to do this for a living, and I, like many others here are having a hard time putting a value on my work. I tend to price to low I think. Let me try this as an example and you can all chime in. I make a bic cigarette lighter, keychain.. I'll take a pic soon. It isn't complicted.. Just a small piece of leather, folded over and sewn along one seam with a tab on one end to hold the keyring. The lighter simply slips into it. I figure it takes about 15 minutes to make (assembly line style) and I may have 60 cents into it, in material, using 4/5oz, the rivet, and ring, dye, etc. I sell them retail for $5.00 and think they should wholesale in quantity for $2.50 Does that sound about right?... There is no stamping for design other than a french border, but I can do something a bit fancier if requested... Any input?.. am I way off?..... Honestly I have never been good at valuing my stuff..... Thanks! reuben...

There won't be any bullet loops on the belt. Just a standard belt. all of the ammo pouches or cartridge slides will be mix and match. This rig is actually for CAS matches, and they all are using slides.. My original thought was to use a shorter tongue, and fit it closely, so that when it came time to shorten it, I could just cut out the old and not have to "repair" anything. Of course I'd have to make several adjustments until he got down to his fightin weight. And I would not sew the tongue, but use an alternate method. I've made many many field belts out of single heavy weight hide without any issues. Please note that I carry a Ruger 44 BlackHawk and extra ammo as well as a knife, EVERY DAY. I live remote in Alaska bear country. My 1 3/4" gun belt gets more use than probably anybody I know. My gun is always on the belt.. except when I change clothes. Honestly, I'm not trying to be a wise a** or anything. I honestly do carry a big gun every day, as do many of the people I know, here. I know everybody has their preferences, and I wouldn't want to disuade anyone from doing what they feel comfortable with. But in all do respect I feel a single ply belt to be fine as long as the hide is of proper weight and density. Thanks all, for the help. I can always count of good solid advice here, even if I ignore it!!!..... ciao y'all

Thanks for the input... I'm using a good piece of heavy 9/10 oz for the belt. I really don't want to deal with a laminate as I'm intending on this belt getting shortened as the customer's health improves and he loses weight. The blank is 2.5 inches wide (it has to allow his holsters and accessories to be used.) He is a very regular customer and has spent bunches of $$$ so I want to make it versatile. He is on a fixed income as well, so I just don't want to build him a belt and expect him buy keep buying new ones as his health inproves.... But I really need to get it right the first time... leather is just to spendy... i've dowloaded the diagram and will consult it as I go... Thanks y'all...

I was thinkin we should have a Tippmann Boss support group here. Generally I like my Boss and would not want to go back to hand stitching... but every now and then.......... "To da moon!!!!"..... There are day's when I can keep that thing runnin right for nothing.. stitch tension won't stay.. pierced thread.... you name it! Then it will straighten right out and run smooth for awhile.... very exasperating!!!!! Anywhoo.. Just thought I'd bring it up!

I tried both sanding, and just burnishing.. I had no saddle soap along (was on the road... yeah I my shop goes with!)... so I used the last of my Tragacanth. After trimming away the worst I burnished. The worst chunk got sanded after trimming... Both came out acceptable. As a side note, I don't know if you guys have any issues with Tandy leather down in the lower 48, but up here in Alaska it seems like we get the bottom of the barrel.... I' not big enough a shop to order any leather from down south... The shipping would kill me for the volumn I do.. Thanks y'all

Hi guy's Let me start by saying I did a search but did find an answer! I'm going to be building a billeted belt for a guy. I've only done one (for me) so I'm not sure what the formula should be... the customers measurements are 56.5 inches.... hense part of the need for billeted. It will be wide as it is a gunbelt to be used in CAS events. How much overlap is used? and how much should the tongue overlap the belt as well. I don't think this guy will gain any more weight as he really wants to get into this CAS shooting and wants to get into better shape. I'm going to use a segmented borderstamping pattern that will match the rest of the stuff I've built him, but allow for shortening without looking butchered. If any of you guy's could give me a formula, I'd appreciate it! Thanks much and have a great holiday weekend!

Thanks for the advice Dave... I wouldn't have comsidered saddlesoap. Maybe I was just overthinking things as usual. But giving it a try doesn't hurt! I'll post pics (better than the last one) and let you know how it turns out. thanks again!

I'm in the process of making two large bandoliers for a very large gentleman. I'm in Alaska and small timers like me can have trouble getting good hides... Anyhow... The bandoliers I'm making both have a fuzzy spot on the back of them. I just couldn't get a clean hide... The fuzzy area is about 5 inches long on a 2.5" wide bandolier that is over 6 feel long... While the leather is dense I definetly need to take care of this issue so I thought I'd get some additional advice here.. I did put a coat of dye on one so far, and thought I'd trim off the worst, then use either atom wax or tragacanth, to smooth the rest of the fibers... Then I'd make a determination on how to best handle the other one. Or should I dye the back again first?... I just wish I could get decent sides up here is what I really wish..but I just don't do the volumn yet justify the big expense.. Here is a pic after a coat of dye. Sorry it is out of focus.. my little digital camera is quite lacing in the macro area.. but it gives you the idea... thanks y'all...

Use extreme caution if you wet the loop leather when lacing your loops! The leather will stretch as you pull and work on it. If your loop material is 7/8" wide by the time you get done with 6 loops you can lose enough width to see with the naked eye. I make a LOT of ammo pouches/cartridge slides. I do it this way. Cut your loop material and put a bit of neats foot to keep it supple. sew your end, and pass it through the first slot (a 3/4" slot cutter works best) pass it back through the same hole forming your loop. Put the bullet into the loop and gently work tight as you require. Lay the pouch down on the work bench and use the rounded end of a tandy slicking tool (the tongue depresser one) into the slot you just made the loop in. This will bend the loop material. Theny rub the tongue depresser along the top of the project next to the loop you just made. It will bend and form the material giving a nice square fold to your loop material. Then proceed to the next loop, until you reach the end. Note.... for 44 mag you will need approx 16" of loop material for 6 loops, spaced about 9/16" apart... I have made hundreds of cartridge loops items and have never had a problem with loops doing it this way... but using wet leather in my loops has always led to some stretching or other issues. It took much longer to type this than do it. Use good dense loop material..I prefer about a 5-6 wt as it is easy to work with and tools nicely as well (dense material!)... If I can be of any more help just email me... I'd be glad to show how I do it so you can find what works best for you.. regards...

I have been considering getting away from dying any of my holsters or sheaths, and just using an oil finish. I like variety, but really want to streamline things a bit. I like the way darker colors will help hide a minor flaw or mistake, but I think in the long run it would make my life easier, as well as make it easier for the customer (fewer choices to worry think about!)... I'd appreciate your opinions... and experiences... regards...

I've never had much success trying to dip neatsfoot oil.. Everything is gunky oily, like mentioned above. I do use several applications of oil to bullets loops however, as I usually dye them before assembly and the dye tends to stiffen them to much. I also find that the neatsfoot I use seems to absorb better faster if the leather is damp.... Hope this helps more than adds to the confusion.. regards

place a ruler, at the point you wish to place the snap (horizontally across the flap...) measure the with of the flap and divide by 2.... marke the center.. (or half way point) with a pen/awl/etc.... punch your snap hole.. If you want it repeatable, just make a mockup flap and overlay on the actual sheath.... regards... reuben...

Anybody know of a good sourse for watch band (type) buckles? I have ordered samples from Tandy that look right, but are just to bulky... I want something better than the wimpy things you get on the watch when you buy it, but light enough to actually lift your arm... Thanks.... reuben...

I do have fairly eide feet, and noticed that my foot didn't really meet up with the pattern... I was definetly going to widen a bit, but was not sure if widening the vamp, or just widening the sole and outer sole would suffice.... regards... reuben...

I appreciate the input. i'll give them a jingle... I live in moose country, but first need to see a legal bull before I cn collect any meat or hide.. I'm sure that combining the two different leathers would cause it's own issues, which is one of the reasons I asked before blindly jumping in. I have a friend with bison mocs, which are beyond cool, but this first attempt is more than anything an exercise. regards y'all.. reuben...

I'm looking to construct my first moccasins... Since I'm a beginner at this type of leather workI'm using a Tandy pattern (Plainsman boot moccasin) To get to know the ropes. I'm not sure I'd like the light sole of the pattern, and was thinking that a bit of saddle skirting would my better fit my needs, (since i'll be using these quite a lot). Would gluing an inner sole of skirting work or, should I use the skirting as the actual sole, and sew it to the deerskin innersole?... And help, or advice is much appreciated..... regards... reuben....

Thank you for all the valuable info... I'm not really looking to replace the Tippmann.. It does quite well... But I do need a backup. My Biggest holsters are about 9wt doubled for the seam, with a short welt.. personally I dislike welts.. I think they are a waste of time... However, I'm looking to expand into other area's and I do a lot of work with lighter leathers.. I'm relatively new at the commercial end of this, so please bare with me. I'm not familiar with the difference in sizes of thread..(actual diameter I can comprehend).... Would a 138 thread size be satisfactory for a holster?... See.. so many things I need to know... I am interested in getting into buckskinning and sewing garment weight material, as well as making moccosins and boots... So this machine should do well in that area(?) If you could provide me with a bit of education, I'd be most appreciative.... Regards... Reuben...

I currently own a tippmann Boss, which has been my primary method of stitching. I need a second machine, and have located three Singer 29K73's.... A long arm in good shape and ready to sew... And two short arms.. One needs adjustment and the third needs a few parts.. All with treadle bases and extra parts, belts etc. A buddy and I, (who is also in the working in the leather biz), are thinking of picking them up. The price, seems quite reasonale at $500.00 for the lot. My question is more about reliability than anything. These are all metal machines and look rather bullet proof.... How are they at setting up and adjusting? I know that "Pilgrim" and "shoe systems", handles most parts... Anything else we should know?... or just dive in?.. I need to stay with manual machines for now... I live remote with limited electric and have space issues, so table top bolting works for me.... Any input or advice is much appreciated! Thanks y'all reuben... p.s. I usually use #236 in the Tippmann.... can the 29's handle thread this heavy?.... I know the machines can handle thick leather.... Most my holsters are 9 oz, and welts in the frame/trigger guard area...

Hi y'all.... I'm pretty new here.. This is my first post actually. I'm currently using a Tippmann Boss, to do my stitching. It is a fair machine, and it works better now, since I read the manual and watched the video a few hundred times. My question is this...... I really need a backup machine, and I prefer a manual machine as opposed to electric (I'm on limited electricity as I live quite remote in Alaska..) What are my options? I met a guy who said he had three treadle machines that he used to use for harness repair.. I think he said they were "singers". Anywhoo I haven't been able to reach him as of yet to investigate, and an internet search turned up no results for a singer machine like this. And I haven't had much luck finding suppliers online as yet.. I don't have much issue with the Tippmann other than I think it is way over priced for what it is... Any of your thoughts or experiences with manual machines would be greatly appreciated! Regards y'all...