Members Traveller Posted November 16, 2008 Members Report Posted November 16, 2008 Does anyone use neatsfoot oil to condition the saddle after it's been in use? Or is it a one-time application that the saddle maker applies and then riders should turn to different conditioners down the road? Quote
Members Go2Tex Posted November 16, 2008 Members Report Posted November 16, 2008 Yes, it is good to re-oil once in a while, depending on conditions of use. If the saddle gets really wet, soaked in a stream or some such and then dries out, it probably is going to need some more oil. After a real good cleaning if lots of water is used, same thing. A little oil. Too much oil is bad. Quote Brent Tubre email: BCL@ziplinkmail.com
Members mulefool Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 I also do the neatsfoot and Tan-Kote. I have some of the Bee Natural saddle Oil with fungicide, I haven't used it on new saddles, but I do use on older ones that have a mold problem. I get my neatsfoot from Weaver and in the winter when it gets cold in the shop I get the white stuff in the bottom of the bucket. I try to keep it by a heater which keeps it dissolved out. I just assumed that it was just the way neatsfoot is, just the tallow settling out. Should I be concerned about that? Chris Quote www.horseandmulegear.com
Members Dually Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 Hi All, I have a sort of related question for all of you. My daughter was awarded a saddle (Billy Cook) for being a local rodeo queen. I've been asked to do the stamping, but am not sure what the factory finish probably is. The fenders are not tooled, so can I suspect that they are oiled then tancoated? Even so, should I just wet from the back? I don't want to water stain the stamped area. Doe's my question make sense? I imagine this comes up for you guys from time to time. Thanks in advance for your input. OH...And can I get away with using black sharpie for the letters if I again tancoat over it? Its a nice enough saddle, and I sure don't want to bugger it up. LOL Quote Trust in God, but tie your horse. Randy
hidepounder Posted November 18, 2008 Report Posted November 18, 2008 It appears that the overwhelming favorite combo is Neatsfoot Oil & Tan-Kote. Would someone please tell me the downside of Neat-Lac on a carved saddle....just for my personal info...? Quote
Members greg gomersall Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 I don't use neat-lac on any horse gear because you cannot oil thru it after it is applied. If your customer tries to oil the saddle a year down the road the oil just lays on top except for the few spots that the neat-lac has wore off and then the rig looks like a friggin pinto or paint. Greg name='hidepounder' date='Nov 18 2008, 10:11 AM' post='72050'] It appears that the overwhelming favorite combo is Neatsfoot Oil & Tan-Kote. Would someone please tell me the downside of Neat-Lac on a carved saddle....just for my personal info...? Quote
Members RyanCope Posted November 18, 2008 Members Report Posted November 18, 2008 Ditto what Greg said. Neat-lac is a is terrible thing to put on a saddle, unless you want your saddle to end up a yellow/orange color with dark spots where it has been worn off. It does, in my opinion, look a lot better than Tan-Kote when it is first applied. Ryan Quote
hidepounder Posted November 19, 2008 Report Posted November 19, 2008 Thanks guys I appreciate the info....I suspected that was what you were going to tell me! Quote
Moderator bruce johnson Posted November 19, 2008 Moderator Report Posted November 19, 2008 Bob, For another thumbs-down reason for Neatlac on a saddle. In a past life I was a nose to tail around the rail western pleasure rider. I used to religiously apply Neatlac and/or SaddleLac to my stuff. You reins get slick and your saddle is like riding a greased hog. I tried a little sock rosin inside my shotguns once. Made a squeak to end all against that finish. I drowned out the organ player. Dually, I have done a few of these. First thing is to apply a small amount of water or casing solution on the grain side of the fender leg. If it absorbs you can case it normally. Otherwise you may need to strip the finish to do it right. You can case from the back usually, but the dye for the letters won't penetrate on the front. I haven't had a problem with Tankote lifting Sharpie ink/dye on lettering if there is no finish under the ink. It will smear if there is a coating left on. I had been known to case from the back, and then sand the finish off the lettering on a Friday night drop-off/Saturday give away trophy saddle. Fine bullet shaped grinding stones on a Dremel can do it and not eat the grain. Dye and then seal it. Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members Dually Posted November 19, 2008 Members Report Posted November 19, 2008 Bruce, thanks for the reply, I'll try wetting and see what happens. And... I will take this opportunity to add that your new site is great. Quote Trust in God, but tie your horse. Randy
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