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Posted

A little tip I figured out in order to get snaps that are straight is to be certain your anvil is well stabilized and doesn't slide as you rap the post. For instance, I have placed little rubber pads (w/adhesive) on the bottom of my avil for the buttons so it does not slide. This has really improved the quality of my snap applications.

Give it a try if you're having a little trouble with your snaps :)

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Shorts I HOPE you're talking about a teensy tiny anvil. I'd sure hate to hear that someone blew a gut trying to put adhesive pads under their 258 pounder!!!! LOL

  • Members
Posted
  TwinOaks said:
Shorts I HOPE you're talking about a teensy tiny anvil. I'd sure hate to hear that someone blew a gut trying to put adhesive pads under their 258 pounder!!!! LOL

:rofl: Yeah, sorry, in a rush today and not enough caffeine lol That would be something though, knocking that anvil around! I meant the base piece of the setter kit like the one pictured here:

8105-00-L.JPG

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Yep, you'd have to seriously question what size mallet they were using!

  • Members
Posted

I always had challenges with snap setting. So I took some profits and bought a setter machine and a snap set for line 24s. Much easier.

For the hand models, having a firm platform for the hammering helps. I used a concrete floor with good results compared to my wooden work table.

Posted

I recently got a 15 lbs anvil and a 55 lbs anvil and don't know how I ever did without them. Having suitable mass underneath your work makes setting snaps and rivets much easier.

Ed

  • Members
Posted

Agreed, a solid underneath surface is key. Since I'm upstairs, I use a plate from my weight set as the base. Finally! They're getting used! ;)

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