impulse Report post Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) I previously posted for help in making a splitter and have since been investigating modifying a metal working slip roller. These cost around $175 new and seem to have most of the components needed for a hand cranked splitter. The width of rollers is 300mm(12") and maximum adjustment between rollers is 2.5mm(6-7oz leather), but with modification this could be made to accept thicker. I am looking at the possibility of replacing the third roller at the back with a blade. I would need to get the angle right, something I need your help with. Anyone think that this is a feasible solution? Lois BTW the wire rolling grooves at the end of the rollers could make interesting border patterns! Edited June 28, 2011 by impulse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe9 Report post Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) I think you would need to eliminate the back roller for starters , Im not sure it would work to well with smooth rollers and with the off set of the rollers , the offset will present the biggest challenge (getting it to feed the leather straight) , you might be able to make 2 arms to move the top roller back . I can send you a pic of a 5 in 1 to show blade position if you need it ... PM sent as well ... Edited June 28, 2011 by wolfe9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mike59 Report post Posted June 28, 2011 I previously posted for help in making a splitter and have since been investigating modifying a metal working slip roller. These cost around $175 new and seem to have most of the components needed for a hand cranked splitter. The width of rollers is 300mm(12") and maximum adjustment between rollers is 2.5mm(6-7oz leather), but with modification this could be made to accept thicker. I am looking at the possibility of replacing the third roller at the back with a blade. I would need to get the angle right, something I need your help with. Anyone think that this is a feasible solution? Lois BTW the wire rolling grooves at the end of the rollers could make interesting border patterns! Your bottom roller would need to be finely fluted lengthwise to feed the leather through, and a very true solid bed for your blade to mount to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
impulse Report post Posted June 29, 2011 Thank you Mike and Wolfe - very helpful imputs! Pics would be great and any other comments welcome. Lois Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Thank you Mike and Wolfe - very helpful imputs! Pics would be great and any other comments welcome. Lois Wouldn´t life be easier if you bought a splitter that you know will function from the very start ? Just a thought. / Knut Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
impulse Report post Posted July 4, 2011 Wouldn´t life be easier if you bought a splitter that you know will function from the very start ? Just a thought. / Knut I'm afraid that a 12" crank splitter would be way too expensive for me! Even used pull-thru splitters here in Australia are going for $800 -$1,000. I am fairly capable at DIY and nutting out the workings. I would like to be able to post the building of an inexpensive splitter, just need help with the plans please. Lois Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amuckart Report post Posted July 4, 2011 To what extent have you looked at the workings of crank splitters in person? I suspect that you'll put more than a few hundred buck's worth of work into modifying this thing before you even try making and heat treating a blade for it, only to end up with something that won't work as well as a purpose-designed splitter would. There's a lot more to them than the rollers, and there's a reason they cost what they do. I was lucky enough to get two 6" crank splitters cheap, but they needed work and just setting them up again post-assembly was hard, let alone building one from scratch. Given the initial cost, and the work it took to get them going I wouldn't let either of them go for less than several hundred dollars. If I were going to make a crank splitter this big I'd start by working out where to get single-bevel blade made in high-quality tool steel so that it comes out completely flat and true. For something with a finished size of 300x40x5mm, that's a non-trivial task in itself. Next you need to find somewhere that can mill lengthwise grooves into the bottom roller close enough together to give you the good sharp ridges to feed the leather. Unless you own, and can program, a CNC milling machine, those two operations alone will set you back the price of a second hand splitter. If you do own a CNC milling machine, then you're in a good position to make the rest of a splitter too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted July 4, 2011 impulse I'm rooting for ya!! It my not work when your done and it my cost you just as much as a used one. But my daddy always said where there's a will there's a way!! If you don't have a CNC machine maybe you can trade something for the work to be done. And there's just something about figuring a problem out and getting it done that makes a fella feel pretty damn good. I know your not in the USA but this country was founded on the can do attitude. So the best of luck! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southtexas Report post Posted July 4, 2011 perhaps the information at http://campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Splitting-Machines.pdf might be helpful with your design. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted July 5, 2011 And why would you need a CNC to do this operation? This is an easy operation, and could be done on a manual mill. It could also be knurled on a lathe. How about a rubber sleeve over it to add grip? Being a machinist it makes me chuckle when someone mentions that "you need a CNC." If you get a chance to look at a Mauser Broomhandle pistol you will see what I mean. Introduced in 1896 long before CNC's, carbide cutters,and many other modern advancements in machining were even thought of. The difference was that they were made by skilled craftsmen, not some binary brained machine, and they were made in the hundreds of thousands. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cem Report post Posted July 5, 2011 impulse I reckon it could be done like BIGGUNDOCTOR said these things were made long before CNC was introduced. I actually toyed with the idea myself but as I don't have any metal work experience I thought it was easier in the long run for me to just buy one. I also know how rare the hand cranks are in Australia I looked for a year and only one ever came up which was too small for my use, so I bought one from America. With my search I looked into old style heavy duty pasta makers and jewellery mills though the new ones of them seem to be on the small side. Have a look at this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14496&st=15&p=104039&hl=splitter&fromsearch=1entry104039 Marvin Deitz made his own and sold them though I don't know at what capacity and I don't think anyone was able to get in contact with him as no one has mentioned his splitter since. But it definately looks to be possible with someone who has the right knowledge and tools. Best of luck with it I'd love to see it if you are able to get one going Cheers, Clair Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amuckart Report post Posted July 5, 2011 The difference was that they were made by skilled craftsmen, not some binary brained machine.... Sadly, in this day and age, one of these things is common, and the other is not. Much as I wish it were different! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
impulse Report post Posted July 5, 2011 This imput is GREAT - thanks to all. Now I am looking for suggestions as to what steel I need for the blade? Can I use a saw blade if tempered? Any other suggestions please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted July 5, 2011 O-1, and D-2 would make good blades. As to the saw blade, it is already tempered. Tempering is done after hardening to get either the desired hardness, or to relieve stress. Tempering is usually used to reduce the hardness down after full hardening to get desired results like flexibility, or break resistance. I would think for a splitter the blade could be full hard , as it is not receiving any impact. For an inexpensive blade look into blades for home planers, or jointers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
impulse Report post Posted July 6, 2011 O-1, and D-2 would make good blades. As to the saw blade, it is already tempered. Tempering is done after hardening to get either the desired hardness, or to relieve stress. Tempering is usually used to reduce the hardness down after full hardening to get desired results like flexibility, or break resistance. I would think for a splitter the blade could be full hard , as it is not receiving any impact. For an inexpensive blade look into blades for home planers, or jointers. Thanks BIGGUNDOCTOR. I'm off to my local steel supplier to pick his brains (he is also an engineer). Seems to be a lot of interest in this, so I'll keep posting with final plans, pics and costs as I go. Lois Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
