TomG Report post Posted June 30, 2011 I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amuckart Report post Posted June 30, 2011 Do you have a picture of the watch band? A 111W is a pretty big machine for doing this kind of work. What size and point style of needle are you using? My guess would be that the leather is getting pushed down the hole in the needle plate as you try and sew right close to the edge. You'd probably be better off with a lighter wheel-foot machine for things like watch straps with a needle plate that has the smallest feasable hole in it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted June 30, 2011 Get a piece of one by wood and two spring clamps and you have a guide to sew against. I do that on somethings i make. As for slowing it down turn the hand wheel by hand. To sew with a clutch motor it's on and off with your foot. Takes some getting used to but it can be done till you get the other motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted June 30, 2011 I also have a 111w155. The foot and the plate both are your problem, not necessarily the speed, which you say you have under control. Call BOB, SEWMUN here and get a roller foot and a smaller plate, toledo Industrial, If that doesn't work. buy another new machine. Great excuse! Honey, (I really need it) really! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 30, 2011 Do you have a picture of the watch band? A 111W is a pretty big machine for doing this kind of work. What size and point style of needle are you using? My guess would be that the leather is getting pushed down the hole in the needle plate as you try and sew right close to the edge. You'd probably be better off with a lighter wheel-foot machine for things like watch straps with a needle plate that has the smallest feasable hole in it. I think it's a 20 or 22.. Don't remember. But it is not a leather needle. The only leather needle I have right now is a 23. It's huge for this band I'm attaching some photos. Thanks Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 30, 2011 I also have a 111w155. The foot and the plate both are your problem, not necessarily the speed, which you say you have under control. Call BOB, SEWMUN here and get a roller foot and a smaller plate, toledo Industrial, If that doesn't work. buy another new machine. Great excuse! Honey, (I really need it) really! Don't think I can justify a new machine to my wife, since we use it seldomly. Since this is a walking foot machine, how does a roller foot feed the leather? As for the speed, I press the foot pedal to just engage the clutch lightly, and turn the wheel by hand and gentle add speed with the pedal. Occasionally, it will get away from me for a second, but I'm usually using it to sew folding chairbacks together after embroidering them, so a little high speed doesn't hurt. But small work on leather is a whole new ballgame <G> Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted June 30, 2011 I also have a 111w155. The foot and the plate both are your problem, not necessarily the speed, which you say you have under control. Call BOB, SEWMUN here and get a roller foot and a smaller plate, toledo Industrial, If that doesn't work. buy another new machine. Great excuse! Honey, (I really need it) really! I meant to ask you a few of questions: 1) What is the biggest thread you can sew with. 2) What is the thickest leather you've sewn? 3) Do you have a clutch motor or have you gone to the serve? Thanks Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted June 30, 2011 I had to look at the manual cause I never have PUSHED this machine. Highest needle size. per book is 24. My other chart says thread size for 24 is max 207. I put a new handwheel on mine, 10" and really slowed it down with a clutch motor. The other option is a SERVPRO w/gear reduction built in that will give you 1 stitch in 3 seconds. That's a lot better than my 251-3 that does 40 stitches per minute. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted June 30, 2011 OH I forgot your thickness question. Sorry. Everything you can fit under the foot! The 111w is such a heavy hauler it will handle it. I have changed my foot clearance and modified the foot to a total thickness of 1/2" barely! Advise stick to 3/8 or 7/16 MAX. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 7, 2011 I always use a stitch grover on both sides, the needle will take the easy way and the seam will lay protected in the grove. A Singer 29K or a Adler 30 patcher with low foot pressure will do the job just fine. If you got one. If not, hand on the flywheel and bare foot on the clutch pedal. I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 7, 2011 I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 7, 2011 I always use a stitch grover on both sides on work like this. The needle will take the easy way and the seam will lay protected in the grove. A Singer 29k or a Adler 30 with low foot pressure will do this job just fine. If you do not have one, go bare foot on the clutch pedal and hang on the flywheel. Use a thin needle and thread. I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simran Report post Posted July 7, 2011 I think it's a 20 or 22.. Don't remember. But it is not a leather needle. The only leather needle I have right now is a 23. It's huge for this band I'm attaching some photos. Thanks Tom Just a suggestion: After looking at your pics. I'd think a lighter sewing machine; like a Singer 31-15 or 31-20 w/roller foot would be in order. Along with a guide and lighter thread. With a good eye and the original clutch motor on said machine you could get by without a guide; if you were careful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted July 7, 2011 Just a suggestion: After looking at your pics. I'd think a lighter sewing machine; like a Singer 31-15 or 31-20 w/roller foot would be in order. Along with a guide and lighter thread. With a good eye and the original clutch motor on said machine you could get by without a guide; if you were careful. Thanks. On this particular band, the stamping is so close to the edge, a stitch groover would cut too much of the design, which the lady didn't want. I remade the entire thing and used contact cement to secure everything. Then burnished the edges together and so on. I do have a couple smaller machines in the garage. I' need to dig them out and see if any of them are capable of doing this weight leather. Later. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted July 8, 2011 If you want to stitch it you must leave space for the seam and the grovers comes in all sizes.. U use the same as the tread size. I find this method easier than an edge guide on such small items. And looks better to. But a smaller machine will certainly be helpfull. Thanks. On this particular band, the stamping is so close to the edge, a stitch groover would cut too much of the design, which the lady didn't want. I remade the entire thing and used contact cement to secure everything. Then burnished the edges together and so on. I do have a couple smaller machines in the garage. I' need to dig them out and see if any of them are capable of doing this weight leather. Later. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites