Schpacko Report post Posted July 1, 2011 If you guys use fairly thin leather, like 4oz or 5oz, do you burnish the edges or do you cut them and just leave them that way? I dont like that unfinished look and would like to slick or burnish them, but i havent found a good method yet. any tipps? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris of WV Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Well, you could burnish them with a piece of canvas or other rough cloth, or you might be able to use one of the multi-sized slickers like the ones they sell at Tandy (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8121-00.aspx)... Worked for me so far... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sixer Report post Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) Leatherburnishers.com Best $30 I've spent thus far on any leatherworking tool. See this thread - http://leatherworker...showtopic=32727 Edited July 1, 2011 by Sixer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) Here's a link to the method I use for burnishing. FINISHING EDGES 4/5 oz leather will burnish nicely. For lighter leathers I use Spinner's Dremel burnishers. BURNISHERS Hope this helps..... Bobby Edited July 1, 2011 by hidepounder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Schpacko Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Here's a link to the method I use for burnishing. FINISHING EDGES 4/5 oz leather will burnish nicely. For lighter leathers I use Spinner's Dremel burnishers. BURNISHERS Hope this helps..... Bobby Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm talking about a single Layer of 4oz leather for example. To me, its just too soft and instable, The leather bends and the saddle soap or the gum trag gets everywhere it shouldnt. Still the same procedure in this case? cheers schpacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillB Report post Posted July 12, 2011 You might want to try using a Dremel with a soft buffing tool. In this case you would get the buffing tool wet with solution, then at high RPM lightly go over the edge. You will be trading rotation speed for pressure to generate the heat for burnishing. BillB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Schpacko - as Sixer and Bobby mentioned, I make cocobolo burnishers that will work with 4-5 oz. I've actually made one for myself previous that can burnish pigskin splits that have been doubled up (total of about 3oz.) You can check out my site below or... here are a few tips if you are handy enough to make one: The depth of the channel should to be at least equal to the width on small leather channels. This helps keep the leather in place while burnishing. If the channel isn't deep enough, the leather will bend/curl and "walk" out of the channel. For thinner leathers (under 4oz) it's helpful if the channel has either straight or slightly "V" shaped sides and a flat bottom instead of "U" shaped. Straight sides& bottom will ensure the leather stays in place and if you taper off the top corners to almost a V, the friction and shape will actually draw the leather in slightly, keeping the burnishing action going without leaving a heavy mark if the sides touch. As for doing it manually with saddle soap & cloth to burnish or as follow up to polish the edge; if you have enough room, try sandwiching the leather between two pieces of posterboard or thin smooth cardboard. Get the posterboard almost right up to the edge to be burnished, then lay the sandwich at the edge of your work table - edge to be burnished out. It should help keep the piece stiff enough to burnish the edge and still be smooth/soft enough to work without leaving any marks. Cheers, Chris Edited July 12, 2011 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Here is an example of a custom dremel burnisher I turned for someone that does filigree work and wanted to burnish the edge of 1.5-2 oz. leather. Notice how as the grooves get smaller, especially on the tip, the start to become more and more V shaped to help keep the edge in the groove. (The tip tapers from 1/4" diameter at it's thickest point to give an idea of scale). Hope this all helps. Edited July 12, 2011 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Schpacko Report post Posted July 13, 2011 Here is an example of a custom dremel burnisher I turned for someone that does filigree work and wanted to burnish the edge of 1.5-2 oz. leather. Notice how as the grooves get smaller, especially on the tip, the start to become more and more V shaped to help keep the edge in the groove. (The tip tapers from 1/4" diameter at it's thickest point to give an idea of scale). Hope this all helps. Dude, these things look beautiful. You could sell them just as decoration I guess you will receive an order within the near future... again: thanks for the replies, i love this forum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted July 13, 2011 Dude, these things look beautiful. You could sell them just as decoration I guess you will receive an order within the near future... again: thanks for the replies, i love this forum Hehe, thanks bro. Actually before I got into leatherworking I had a full scale woodturning & metal spinning shop and one of my annual orders was 300 Christmas ornaments for a West L.A. art gallery so that's probably why I can turn so many types/styles of burnisher at pretty much any diameter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
