jerry m Report post Posted July 10, 2011 Some how my machine got out of correct tension. My stiches are to tight on the top leaving roll ball like thread spots on the bottom of the project. I have tried what the manual says and nothing is workng. I have been at it for over an hour, what is the problem???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Have you changed thread sizes? That would be part of it. If not....check the thread take up arm and make sure it hasn't lost any tension when it's all the way up (check the screw at it's base, from the back of the machine) Start by taking the tensions all the way back to 'none' on the thread and start over, make sure you've routed the thread right and that it isn't looped over the stitch length screw. check the bobbin case to make sure there isn't a fuzz ball or anything jamming the spring, or even a broken bobbin spring check the needle alignment to make sure the scarf is in the right position make sure the needle is large enough for the thread Pics would be really helpful in diagnosing the machine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry m Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Thank you Twin oaks. I checked the things you suggested and all was well, i tried makeing the adjustments there was no change. Here are a couple of pics that i hope help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Providing that the pic on the left is the bottom threads, loosen up the presser foot tension a full turn to a turn and a half. It looks like what is happening is that the force from the presser foot is causing the leather to "pooch" down into the needle slot. After you adjust the presser foot, reexamine the back of the piece, and if you still have a little pooching, you can smooth it down with a slicker or stylus/modeling tool. For the first couple of stitches, which look loose, remember to pull 6-8 inches of thread from the needle and the bobbin and hold some tension on them until you either lock in the first stitches, or get about 3 stitches down the line. After that, the tension should hold itself. Read this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22058&st=0&p=141510&fromsearch=1entry141510 It was immensely helpful for tuning my Boss. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry m Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Twin oaks you have been a big help, the other post was helpful. If i can ask you one more question. I have the bottom tesion as tight as it gets and the stiches are looking good,if i loosen up on the bottom tension do i tighten or loosen the top tension? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerry m Report post Posted July 12, 2011 I forgot to thank you in my last post Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Loosen both. The bobbin tension should only be about a pound...ish. If you loosen the bobbin, and don't loosen the top, you'll end up pulling the bottom thread up to the top of the leather. The way I set mine is this: Once I got the bobbin tension 'right' at about a pound, I leave it there. Then, on scrap of the same thickness as my project, I'll sew some stitches. If the top thread is on the bottom, I increase the primary tension about a quarter turn at a time until is pulls back to "somewhere in the middle" of the leather. If the bobbin thread is pulling through to the top, I loosen the primary tension (1/4 turn at a time) until the top thread is pulled down into the leather. I got thread in several colors, but all the same size. That way, I rarely have to touch the bobbin tension, and only adjust the top tension...primary tensioner, really.....about a half turn either direction, depending on the thickness I'm sewing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Another thing you might do, Jerry, . . . get yourself 3 or 4 wing nuts at the local hardware store. They should be 1/4 x 20 threads. Put one on each of the top tensioners above the tensioner wheel itself, . . . and use it to lock the tensioner. I have never been able to get mine to stay where I put it until I did that. Oh, . . . and the 3rd and 4th nuts are to replace the ones you drop onto the floor and can't find. Go to your Tippmann box where you stashed # 3 and # 4 and get a spare May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 13, 2011 And use a Sharpie to put an index mark on the tensioner wheels so you know where you're starting from. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites