Anybody Know This Machine?

[sandyt]

Are you for real??? 2000????

Why? Are they collectors items, or are they realy good stitchers. Can't imagine they are worth 2000.

I will have a look at it tomorrow anyway. If the shuttle is in there I will buy it. The seller doesn't know anything about sewingmachines so he couldn't answer any of my questions.

The Necchi is the first picture. So the seller told me so. I don't think its a Necchi because I couldn't find any info about Necchi sewingmachines looking like this. I think its an Adler, singer or something like that.

Sandy.

[CowboyBob]

The Pearsons are great machines that will sew a real nice looking stitch & will sew pretty thick leather.Does he have the treadle stand for it?

That Necchi looks alot like your other machine you just bought so maybe pass on it & save your $$ for Pearson parts,in case it neds them.

Bob

[sandyt]

Hi there Bob,

Unfortunatly the treadle stand isn't there. So I have to opperate everything by hand. Have to take a good look at the machine tomorrow as I realy don't know this machine, how it opperates and stuf. Don't realy know where to look for. Only saw a short video on youtube. But that wasn't realy revealing. It is gonna be an exiting day for me, haha... I will let you know if I bought it or not.

Sandy.

[sandyt]

Oh, I passed on the Necchi. Think I will be needing the money for the Pearson indeed.

Sandy.

[Trox]

Hi Sandy!

Hurrry up and buy that Pearson, I have never seen a machine like that for sale in Europe. And 100 Euro is nothing. This is like Bob says a real saddler machine, flatbed class 4 or 45k is easy to find. The saddlers in the US who has a Pearson like that still use them and will never part with them. I am sure there are members here who can learn you about it. What more did he have for sale?

I got your Pm and I will send you the manual. That web site is not updated on many years, it is only old stuff there. I have no time to work with it.

Trox

Oh, I passed on the Necchi. Think I will be needing the money for the Pearson indeed.

Sandy.

[sandyt]

Thanks Trox and Bob for advising me to buy it. I did and I am very happy with it. I don't think it has got any wear. Everything is pretty tight. Everything works and luckily there was a shuttle and bobin in it. Took me half an hour to figure out to locate it and take it out. The seller didn't know either. Too bad there was only one broken needle with it. I have to search for them. I put another needle in it just too try if it worked. I had a big thread tension issue, but it didn't skip stitches. So I guess it works fine. It's difficult to handle the pressorfoot without the treadle stand. I think I will make it pneumatic in the future. First looking for some needles.

Few questions:

If it is an English machine, why are they so rare in Europe?????

Why is it called a pearson? I can not find that brand name anywhere on the machine?

Trox, the guy didn't have anything else for sale.

For now it's just standing in the corner being pretty.

Sandy.

[Trox]

And pretty it is!

Great buy Sandy! I know absolutely nothing about this machine, but it is members here who do. Search the forum for details and weld a stand for it. Look in the forum on Oldtimers (Knut from Sweden) stand for his Adler 205. The best thing would be an original treadle stand, but where to get one, I do not know. Maybe Sewmun or Campbell Randall can help you. You have seen this. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33348&st=0&p=207083&hl=pearson&fromsearch=1entry207083

Trox

Thanks Trox and Bob for advising me to buy it. I did and I am very happy with it. I don't think it has got any wear. Everything is pretty tight. Everything works and luckily there was a shuttle and bobin in it. Took me half an hour to figure out to locate it and take it out. The seller didn't know either. Too bad there was only one broken needle with it. I have to search for them. I put another needle in it just too try if it worked. I had a big thread tension issue, but it didn't skip stitches. So I guess it works fine. It's difficult to handle the pressorfoot without the treadle stand. I think I will make it pneumatic in the future. First looking for some needles.

Few questions:

If it is an English machine, why are they so rare in Europe?????

Why is it called a pearson? I can not find that brand name anywhere on the machine?

Trox, the guy didn't have anything else for sale.

For now it's just standing in the corner being pretty.

Sandy.

[Les No6]

Hi you were very lucky to find the Adler for 100 euro’s and unbelievablylucky to get the No6, even for an old worn out one but yours is a later modelsome are over a hundred years old!, looking at the picture there are a coupleof small parts missing. The wire loop on the thread draw off lever which is essentialfor correct operation hence the words MUST NOT BE TAMPERED WITH in the manualand a small spring on the thread check plate, the wire loop can be easily madefrom a piece of wire and a suitable spring is easy enough to find. I’ll takesome pics of the parts on my machine so you know what parts I refer to. Also checkthe shuttle bobbins by rolling on a flat surface these need to be straight ifthey are bent you need new one’s which you can make or buy from Aaron MartinsCanada these are also a good source for needles (331LR). Follow the set upinstructions in the manual by the letter, oil and go. These machines are calledPearson’s after the original maker Pearson and Benion of Leeds, who merged withsome other companies to form British United Shoe Machinery Co.ltd the name onyour fly wheel. There should plenty of No6’s over there knew a company inWalsall England that shipped every No6 they could get hold of to Holland in the80’s.

PS are you willing to sell the No6?

[amuckart]

That really is an incredibly good find for EU100, especially with that waxing apparatus!

Do you have any photos of the back side of the machine?

[sandyt]

Thats a lot of toy for relatively little money indeed.

I realy would like to see some pictures of the parts I am missing. I don't know what parts you are revering to.

Luckaly the bobbin is flat. But the spring in the shuttle underneath the bobbin is broken of. I have to fix that. It holds the bobin tight.

I have ordered some needles at Strima. I am waiting for some respond from them.

I am sure having my eyes open for these machines in Holland. But I have never seen them before though.

I don't sell this machine. It has to many moving parts that I realy realy like. Just like my Junker & Ruh. I can't stop watching the moving parts.

Thanks for the info.

Am I missing some parts here?

Here is a pick of the back amuckart.

Greetings,

Sandy.

[Trox]

Hi Sandy,

What Les No6 is saying is great information; you have to search for more machines in Holland Sandy. Find those beauties and bring them back to life. Sell or give them away to leatherworkers who will restore and use them. It is like an old car, if you put them in a museum they will die, if you use them a little bit every day they will work forever.

Sandy I tried to send you the Adler 5 manual in smaller portions today, I think it worked.

Trox

[sandyt]

I recieved your e-mails! You are very helpfull. Thanks alot!

If I come across another Pearson I will deffinitly post it overhere. I am not interested in another one nore to make money. But maybe I can help someone out.

Now it's No.6 playingtime again. I put an little motor on it and a needle that kind of fits, so I have to sew a lot of scrap leather today.

Sandy.

[amuckart]

Thank you for the pictures of the back. Is the waxing apparatus electrically heated?

Interesting modification to the needle, what did you do to it?

[sandyt]

There are 3 heating elements in this machine. See picture.

Didn't do anything with the needle. Just wrapped some 'copperfoil' around the shaft because it was to small. It still is about 1,5 cm to short. It isn't all the way in the needle bar.

I am thinking about making (have somebody else make me one) a new longer needlebar. I wouldn't be able to sew as thick as it originaly could but I have no need to sew that thick. This way I could just use another shorter needle wich is easier to come by.

Any thoughts on that??

Sandy.

[amuckart]

I toyed with the idea of having a new needle bar made to fit 794 system needles, but it's not a cheap bit of machining for me to get done and there are issues with the stroke length that mean you wouldn't be able to sew really thick stuff. I plan on making a small adapter that bolts on where the needle clamp is and has a small projecting tube to take 794 needles, just to see how it works.

[sandyt]

Those where my first thoughts. But I realy don't want to drill holes in the original parts.

When I get my next pay ( ) I will go to a machineshop to ask what it will cost me. Don't have a clue.

I will let you know.

Sandy.

[amuckart]

Those where my first thoughts. But I realy don't want to drill holes in the original parts.

If you remove the two screws from the needle clamp completely, the front plate comes off. My plan was to make a part that replaced that front plate and was held on by the original screws so it didn't require any permanent modification of the machine at all.

[sandyt]

That was my second thought I guess but I skipped that one for some reason. I will give that a try tomorrow for sure.

Sandy.

[Les No6]

Hi Sandy my mistake I can see the parts I referred to in the second picture as to the little spring in the shuttle it's not essential, you could make one using the steel from an old tape measure, or you could buy one from Aaron Martins. A common mistake people make is set up the No6 dosnt have a top thread tension, tension is set by the shuttle, its important to read the setup instructions in the manual and follow to the letter for the machine to work correctly. I would strongly advise you not to run the machine with the needle setup you have in the picture especially with the motor you are likely to bust the machine and, or injure yourself machine needles are hard and brittle if caught up in the shuttle could cause a lot of damage. It's also not a good idea to run the machine on the motor until you are fully familiar with it they do require some skill to use, the No6 isn't well balanced at all and shouldn't be ran at high speed, sit at the machine unthread it and turn it by hand as fast as you can this is about as fast as it should be run, my No6 is run via a counter shaft this also gives higher torque. The No6 is a fantastic machine my personal favourite heavy stitcher, produces a very high quality strong stitch, very easy on the thread, equally adept at fine light work as it is with heavy no adjustment needed just change needle and rethread, sounds amazing too, a true craftsman's tool.

Thats a lot of toy for relatively little money indeed.

I realy would like to see some pictures of the parts I am missing. I don't know what parts you are revering to.

Luckaly the bobbin is flat. But the spring in the shuttle underneath the bobbin is broken of. I have to fix that. It holds the bobin tight.

I have ordered some needles at Strima. I am waiting for some respond from them.

I am sure having my eyes open for these machines in Holland. But I have never seen them before though.

I don't sell this machine. It has to many moving parts that I realy realy like. Just like my Junker & Ruh. I can't stop watching the moving parts.

Thanks for the info.

Am I missing some parts here?

Here is a pick of the back amuckart.

Greetings,

Sandy.

[Wizcrafts]

The last time I spoke with Aaron Martin's shop (~ a half year ago), they were pretty much out of the sewing machine parts business and only concentrating on selling goods they produce in the shop (rebuilt after a very bad fire). They couldn't even supply me with one single part for my Union Lockstitch machine, which they did in the past.

[amuckart]

The last time I spoke with Aaron Martin's shop (~ a half year ago), they were pretty much out of the sewing machine parts business and only concentrating on selling goods they produce in the shop (rebuilt after a very bad fire). They couldn't even supply me with one single part for my Union Lockstitch machine, which they did in the past.

I really hope that's not still the case! There are some parts I desperately need to get my #6 going and I'm about to put a reasonably significant parts order in with them.

I did email John Leighton who said they only manufacture parts for #6s they are rebuilding in-shop, not for resale, and Henry Veenhoven who I believe supplied some parts to Aaron Martin but I haven't heard back from Henry. I'm not aware of any other sources for replacement parts for the #6. At least you can still get Union Lock parts from Campbell-Randall.

[sandyt]

Thanks for your concern and tips Les No.6. But the little motor only runs at 140 rpm and then there is the speedreduction from the pulleys. It only sews at about 45 stitches/minute. I guess I could sew faster by hand? Won't do that though. In fact, I will slow down the motor even more with a frequency converter (VLP or VLD??). I realy don't want to stress the machine. It's only hobby so I will not be hurried stitching.

Aaron Martin still sells needles Wizcraft, but don't know about the litthe shuttle spring. Didn't order the needles yet. Imca/Global Holland told me they had some needles I could try. They will send me a few for free to try!! Love those people already. So I will first try those needles.

Just curious Amuckart. How far are you witch your no.6 restauration? Are there some pics on the net I could look at?

Sandy.

[amuckart]

I haven't gotten that far with my machine yet; I've also been distracted by other projects (moving house, twice, and now trying to fix other machines to make space) so it's been sitting in the corner doing nothing for ages waiting for me to order parts for it. I will eventually put some information about it up on my website.

What's really frustrating is that I can't even sew with it because the needle clamp screws are damaged so it won't hold a needle when stitching through more than about 4mm of leather, and it's missing the spring that holds the tension on the foot lifting toggle, so the foot doesn't lift properly. Once I have the parts, I will get it running properly, then strip it completely and start a cosmetic restoration. I haven't been able to get the idea of fully restoring it out of my head since seeing pictures of Peter Main's amazingly restored machine (and the wife acceptance factor goes up quite a bit if it looks less like a rusted hulk in the corner )

When it came to me the machine had been sitting in a shed for about 20 years, it was dry, but very dirty.

Nothing you won't have seen with your one though. I have most of an original bobbin winder for it too, acquired separately, and am working on patterns to get the missing wax pot cast up. Frustratingly my machine has the remnants of a hot waxing apparatus - of a different model to yours - which is something I really want to get and restore, but I doubt I'll ever find at a price I can afford. I now have a top wax pot for it too, but that is missing a bunch of the internal parts which I'll need to get made.

[Brtz]

Hi,

Trox wrote: "

Singer is not alone copying popular sewing machine models, but here I find a strange model from Singer, The 45A 92 http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/45A92.pdf It is a copy of the Adler 204 -64. In addition, Singer 45A 93 http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/45A93.pdf who is a copy of the Adler 205-64. If you look at the part lists and compare them with the Adler part list, you will see it has Adler part numbers. It is photocopies of the Adler part list. I wonder if Sewmun or anybody else has seen any of this Singer models in the US before.

Trox"

By searching the net I found much more readable copy of the part list of Singer 45A93 than a singerco copy linked above.

Try this: http://www.supsew.com/catalogs-reference-materials/ and look for Singer 45A93

There is also very good copy of part list for Adler 205-6 (205-64)

Regards, Bert