Metal Draw Gauge Or Wooden Draw Gauge

[redcell7]

hi everybody ....i have a quick question i bought a tandy medal draw gauge (the one that looks like a osborne handle and blade) i have been using it to cut small staps with no problem but i needed to cut a 3 inch wide stap ....let me tell u i strugled but was able to cut..... it but its not straight....i watch some videos out there and they are cutting big (wide) straps using those wooden ones that sandwich the leather in ..........IS this a better cutter or in time my skill set with the medal gauge will increase with practice or is the wooden one a better cutter

[Ferg]

I have the wooden item. Haven't had occasion to cut as wide as you are but I have my wife hold the end of the leather as I pull the cutter away from her.

For one reason or another it seems I can cut 3 or 4 straps from same piece of leather then I need to use the straight edge again. Probably just me.

ferg

hi everybody ....i have a quick question i bought a tandy medal draw gauge (the one that looks like a osborne handle and blade) i have been using it to cut small staps with no problem but i needed to cut a 3 inch wide stap ....let me tell u i strugled but was able to cut..... it but its not straight....i watch some videos out there and they are cutting big (wide) straps using those wooden ones that sandwich the leather in ..........IS this a better cutter or in time my skill set with the medal gauge will increase with practice or is the wooden one a better cutter

[Trox]

Hi,

I use the wooden strap cutter myself it is easier in the beginning because it eliminates the use of your thumb to press down the strap. But both cutters work the same way, and in time, you will learn how to cut strait. Remember to only use your free arm to pull the strap true, never pull with the cutter. On wide strap of heavy leather press your tool tight against the leather and pull the strap true. On the wooden cutter, it is possible to change the angle of the blade a few degrees by placing a thin piece of cardboard between the blade holder and the frame. The blade then act like a rudder of a boat compressing the leather against the tool. On thin straps and soft leather, we use the opposite angle. It must be possible to do the same in the blade holder of the metal one, 2 degree inside angle on heavy wide strap and opposite on narrow strap. But the must important is to pull the strap true and keep the cutter steady.

Trox

hi everybody ....i have a quick question i bought a tandy medal draw gauge (the one that looks like a osborne handle and blade) i have been using it to cut small staps with no problem but i needed to cut a 3 inch wide stap ....let me tell u i strugled but was able to cut..... it but its not straight....i watch some videos out there and they are cutting big (wide) straps using those wooden ones that sandwich the leather in ..........IS this a better cutter or in time my skill set with the medal gauge will increase with practice or is the wooden one a better cutter

[roo4u]

i started with the wooden one and then when i wore that puppy out i tried a draw gauge and hated it. then i found a metal version of the wooden style....i love it. i looked and it is also a crafttool. i have used it many times to cut 6" straps out of full sides.

[bruce johnson]

Well I do cut a lot of 3 inch and wider straps. Most of the stirrup leathers for roping saddles are 3" and I do a fair amount of repair work. I cut blocks of heavy latigo for reins and depending on the side, I may be able to cut 6 inch wide blocks to glue back to back and then cut my finised rein widths from the doubled blocks. First off I straighten the side with a long rule and knife. From there is depends on what I choose to cut with.

The Wooden strap cutter - It depends on how good it is. Some are not square with the blade and handle. If the blade is sharp, it will do up to 4" widths. Like a draw gauge, it tends to drag and more torque the further out you get. It is limited in thickness. Some skirting is thicker than the capacity of some cutters, and will bind when you get to heavy areas. They won't cut doubled up pieces. You need to tension the strap as you pull. Either reach forward and hold it yourself, have someone holding the end, tack it to the bench, or use a clamp like a "third hand" cam action clamp. I do cut some heavy leather with the wooden strap cutter, but not much. I use razor blades in it, and break off the excess sticking up. The razor blade will last a while on vegtan, but a new one is great for me cutting softer leathers like chap. I use it mostly for that. Advantage - pretty inexpensive.

Draw gauges - I like them for narrower straps and still might cut some leathers with them if one is handy. The blades can be sharpened up well and the sharper they are the better they stay straight. Stock blades from Osborne are pretty decent for the price but requir esome work. I thin them down some and sharpen them up to get a better cutting profile and edge. I put a new blade in every draw gauge I sell and sharpen them up in batches. Draw gauges for me are a little more ergonomic than the wooden strap cutters. Still they will have more torque the wider you are cutting. Three inches is max for me and I have to really watch the cut to make sure the leather is staying up next the handle and maintaining width. Leather can ride up the blade. You also need to tension the strap like the wooden strap cutter. You also need to have the leather off the edge of the bench to have clearance underneath. The little handle on the blades can be reached for with your left hand and two hands used to help counteract the torque and stabilize the cut. Advatnages - cheaper than my next option. Disadvantages - there are several makers and choices in handle materials, beam widths, handle shape and materials, and desirability factors with old line ones. They aren't one size fits all in terms of makers, new vs. old, old in as-found condition or refurbished, gibs installed and blade condition, and price can be all over the scale depending on those factors.

Plough gauges - I use them for anything over 3" and most stirrup leathers are cut with them. They are pushed into the leather. The blade is in line with the handle and there is no torque. I have them in widths up to 20 cm and have cut very well that wide. I like them a lot. They are much more commonly used in Europe and those areas influenced by them. Since you are pushing the strap is tensioned from the rear. I push down with my left hand and push with my right in a cross arm motion. If I have the clamp, I just walk away pushing. There is roller in front of the blade that keeps the leather from riding up the blade. The leather lays flat on the table. Disadvantages - biggest one is cost. They are and to my knowledge always were made in Europe. If anyone has any info on any USA maker in the past, please let me know. Dixon and Vergez-Blanchard still make them, and the guys selling the Barnsley have their old found stock. They are not as commonly found in the US, and bring a pretty good price. I like them and hunt them up pretty hard. I try to always have some choices around for sale.

That is my experience with the wider straps.

[Trox]

Thanks Bruce for that lesson!

The plough gauges are expensive in Europe to. I have wanted one for a long time. I have been looking at the Blanchard 10 and 15 cm plough gauge that is available in Norway. However, it is priced from 650 to 750 US $ here, and I have never seen a used one for sale here.

Do you ship to Norway?

Thanks

Trox

Well I do cut a lot of 3 inch and wider straps. Most of the stirrup leathers for roping saddles are 3" and I do a fair amount of repair work.

That is my experience with the wider straps.

[bruce johnson]

Trox, Yes I will ship to Norway.

[Trox]

Hi Bruce, I just sent you an email on your web site. I can not afford to buy a plouge gauge at this momment, but I was looking at some of your other items as well. I left the details in the email

Thanks.

Trox

Trox, Yes I will ship to Norway.