Members Sara Chang Posted August 30, 2011 Members Report Posted August 30, 2011 Hi guys, I would like to say Leather is expensive, and we're conditioned to think of it as a delicate material. It can provide a safe and natural lubricant for a close shave. Olive oil extends the life of leather and protects it. Olive oil include being used as a leather softener and shoe polish and also has plenty of uses around your home. Thanks and best advance Sara chang ____________ http://www.britishmotorcyclegear.com/ Quote
Members Jazznow Posted August 30, 2011 Members Report Posted August 30, 2011 I hope it's ok, when i add another question to this thread: Do you have any advice on storing the olive oil (fridge or not)? The stuff in my fridge becomes hard at the edges after a month or something. it's not rancid, there are just this deposits (that word may describe it best). Can i still use it on leather? Is there a way to stop the oil doing that? Maybe you have some hints Jonathan Quote
King's X Posted August 30, 2011 Report Posted August 30, 2011 Jonathan.......this is a very good question and simple to answer for me. Both EVOO and Neatsfoot oils are stored just like you bought them. On a shelf. My oils (both) are stored on my tooling bench shelf. In fact, I have moved them to different bottles especially the EVOO since it comes (usually) in glass to a plastic Gatorade bottle. I would not advise to refrigerate. As for the oil you use now that has been clumping on you.............toss it and start new............last thing you want is health issues for you or your customers. This is just something that I would do. I buy my EVOO at Wal-Mart for like $4-$6 for like a giant bottle that has lasted me a long, long time. good luck. Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Members amuckart Posted August 31, 2011 Members Report Posted August 31, 2011 The key to storing almost any natural oil, neatsfoot, cod liver, or olive, is to store it sealed and in the dark. UV does more bad things to it than warmth. Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Members Jazznow Posted August 31, 2011 Members Report Posted August 31, 2011 thanks for your advice Quote
Members ChuckBurrows Posted September 1, 2011 Members Report Posted September 1, 2011 FWIW - regarding the thickening of the EV olive oil when refrigerated - it does not mean it's bad at all - it's just the fat globules that when cooled thicken up like that - DO NOT throw the oil away just bring it to room temperature again and things will be fine (well shoud be anyway).. I buy my EVOO at Wal-Mart for like $4-$6 for like a giant bottle that has lasted me a long, long time. I was just at Wal-Mart and the least expensive "gallon" of EVOO (not all olive oil is extra virgin for those who have never bought it so be aware) runs about $20.00 bucks - a quart of EVOO will run around $6-7.00 dependent on brand... Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
Moderator bruce johnson Posted September 1, 2011 Moderator Report Posted September 1, 2011 I am with Chuck, just let it warm up and the chunks will dissolve. I keep my oils on a shelf in my shop. In the winter the NF oil gets a little or a lot pasty or almost solid. The Feibings seems to set up less than the lower end brands. I either set the jug in front of the heater for awhile (lid loosened) or if it will pour then glop it out into my paint roller tray. I fan it with the paint stripping/glue drying gun on high until it melts. I use my NF oil pretty much outside temperature in the summer (around 90 in the afternoons) or warmed slightly in the cooler times of the year. It penetrates better for me that way. Setting the jug in the sun until it feels slightly warm is all I need. Too hot and you can scorch leather and say bad words. I use a fair amount of olive oil too. For all the reasons mentioned already plus it is less greasy feeling for products that will be handled. As far as cost, they are almost a tie for me. The olive oil costs me about $23/gal at the wholesale grocery outlet and I can buy Feibings NF from the local handy livestock supply/western clothing emporium last time for $24/gal. I can buy NF cheaper from him than ordering it and paying even nominal shipping with a mixed order. I can see the latest fashions and continue to eat crow about my prediction that the crystal fad would die out within a year. I think I said that in late 2002. Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members DoubleAdobe Posted September 18, 2011 Members Report Posted September 18, 2011 This is a lttle bit of an old thread but I was also taught to stay away from olive oil on something that would reside in your saddle room because of rats and mice. I have used it with decent success on items that were more human used in nature, such as holsters, knife sheaths, notebooks, briefcases and etc. Old lessons die hard and the old fellas taught me or it seems that I remember maybe disproportionately maybe, to not use food based oils on tack items. As I think about it now, it is probably just so much hooey, does a hungry mouse really care if it is neatsfoot compound, neatsfoot oil, or olive oil slathered on the saddle skirt he's looking at? Like a previous poster said, it may well be the salt from the sweat. Things you hear from guys you admire coming up in this leather fascination thing tend to stick in your mind. One thing I have been using for many years, and don't see much about on this or other boards, is jojoba oil. A guy who used to braid a lot of rawhide got me a quart of it maybe 15 years ago, he was working at the time on a starve-out ranch in the Gila Bend, AZ area. That is where these things grow wild, and some people have also taken to semi-farming them also for the oil. The neat thing about jojoba oil is it doesn't ever get rancid, a lttle goes a long ways, but it is quite expensive. I wouldn't bother putting it on new items necessarily, but for rejuvenating old saddle leather, it is the best thing I have found. I bought another quart about three years ago and still have about half of that. It can be mixed with neatsfoot oil too to stretch it if need be. I use very light coats and sometimes use a hair dryer on low to speed up the soak-in. Like I say, just sitting in the shop, the three year old shop still smells fresh, you could fry an egg in it and be happy about eating it. Of course, the vermin probably like it too. LOL Quote
Members Catchndreams Posted September 19, 2011 Members Report Posted September 19, 2011 Neets foot oil freezes. Put some in your freezer.. Has water in the mixture. I don't use it. Olive oil is what I use. After 50 years and good advice from my Grand Father. I have found that in this slow period in the leather industry, leather is sitting on the shelf longer that normal." Drying out." I have to add olive oil to all my projects that I case and form and tool. The dye also evans out better. Hope this helps. Dennis from Durango Quote Dennis from Durango
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