Sewing Around Corners

[jdwintx]

Here's a question for all you master sewers out there, how do you sew around a corner? I'm making a laptop bag (based on the design on the Saddleback site) and I'm having a very hard time sewing around the corners. Basically there is a middle compartment divider (5oz leather) that seperates two compartments. I have made my divider and the side gussets (3oz leather) but when I get to the corner I'm unable to bend the leather and keep it under the sewing foot of my machine (Cobra Class 4 16). In looking at the pictures I do not see any darts or other cuts to make this easier. Do I need to get the leather wet and pliable before sewing? I figure it is something simple but never having done it I could use some advice. Here's a picture of what I'm describing. Thanks in advance.

[dbusarow]

Get the gusset wet and mold it to the shape it needs. Hold it in place with clips of some sort and let dry. Once dry you should have no problem. If you'd like a really detailed explanation with pictures get the book/pattern pack, Custom Made Saddlebags by the Stohlmans.

Dan

Edited October 5, 2011 by dbusarow

[jdwintx]

Get the gusset wet and mold it to the shape it needs. Hold it in place with clips of some sort and let dry. Once dry you should have no problem. If you'd like a really detailed explanation with pictures get the book/pattern pack, Custom Made Saddlebags by the Stohlmans.

Dan

Thanks Dan, I'll give that a shot. I was hesitant to soak the gusset as I have already glued the lining in place and didn't want to chance that coming unglued, I'll review the saddlebag patterns book, it's around here somewhere...... It does seem to me that this would be very time consuming for someone or company that makes many of these so I was hoping there were other methods.

[dbusarow]

The only part that needs to get good and wet is the edge where the gusset is glued to the main side panel. And the little bit where you fold the gusset over. The main part of the gusset, the part that you want to look nice, can stay as dry as you can keep it. I guess I'd worry a little about water stains if I only wet part of it but probably just a quick splash vs soaking would do for the middle.

Dan

[jdwintx]

Well I tried the method we talked about and all I can say is luckily this is my prototype so I don't mind messing it up while I'm figuring this out. The results were less than stellar as you can see from the images below. Unless I'm really doing something wrong (other than my poor sewing skills) I'm still unable to get the corners smooth enough to sew straight and there is no way that I could do a double seam on this as moving further into the leather around the curves would be impossible.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

[Lurker]

Yeah...do your gussets with a thinner chrome tan leather. Like a chap leather. The thick veg tan is for the front and back (and divider) of the bag and doesn't flex when being sewn. The thinner chrome tan then can flex and be contact cemented to the front/back panels before sewing. At least that's how I've done saddlebags in the past. I wouldn't even attempt a veg tan gusset on a bag, even a thin one that's been wet formed. Seems like a hassle. That's just me though.

You probably want the veg tan for it's stiffness to help protect the laptop (a bit) against crushing though. If I ever were to attempt this (which at this point I still wouldn't) I'd probably skive the edges as thin as I could get then maybe put a "V" cut on the inside of the leather where it needs to bend. As well as wet form of course.

[dbusarow]

I've made saddle bags with 4/5oz veg tan gussets. Accordian gussets. The explanation in the Stohlman book does not make it easy, but it does make it straightforward. You wet form, use a hammer to get the corners flat and then tack the whole thing in place until it dries. When done you have a very impressive bag. I've used the same technique for a bag similar to the OPs, though just two side panels and 1 gusset. It was easier than the accordian gussets.

Dan

[jdwintx]

Well I sat down and gave it a lot of thought last night and I think what I'm going to do is build a wooden jig that will mimic the inside dimensions of the divider and then wet form the gussets around the jig to have top and bottom lips as well as provide the curves. Basically I will build out the shape of the divider and front/back pieces about 1/4 - 1/2" smaller than the actual piece size but the same depth, form the leather around that and then clamp (around the form and top). That should give me enough leeway to sew around and also provide me room to trim and sand the edges. I'll then add the lining prior to sewing over the formed piece. Once I get that built out I'll post a picture (if it works). I think that's about the only way to get the consistency to construct these in a reproducable manner.

Edited October 7, 2011 by jdwintx

[MADMAX22]

That is one great way to do it. There are a few threads on here that are similar to what you describe.

Another way is to cut the gusset to a diminishing shape instead of one size thru out. This can help.

Also when you start stitching, unless you know the exact size and shape of the gusset I would get the bottom and corners glued up and stitched then work your way out to the ends. The way Dbusaro describes is a great way also if not using a form.

[jdwintx]

That is one great way to do it. There are a few threads on here that are similar to what you describe.

Another way is to cut the gusset to a diminishing shape instead of one size thru out. This can help.

Also when you start stitching, unless you know the exact size and shape of the gusset I would get the bottom and corners glued up and stitched then work your way out to the ends. The way Dbusaro describes is a great way also if not using a form.

When you say cut the gusset to a diminishing shape, can you describe that or provide a picture, I'm not sure what you are describing. Thanks