KAYAK45 Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 Hey Tom! What you going to do w/155. Sell it to a sucker? Fix the darn thing. A couple springs and a "J hooK" cannot be that bad. (Whats a j hook anyway?) Call somebody for a price to fix and use the darn thing. IF.. after ten projects...you WANT another machine, because you WANT another machine, buy one.???? I bought my COWBOY 4500 after my w155 because I .. WANTED IT...! Good luck!!! Kevin Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members TomG Posted October 14, 2011 Members Report Posted October 14, 2011 Hey Tom! What you going to do w/155. Sell it to a sucker? Fix the darn thing. A couple springs and a "J hooK" cannot be that bad. (Whats a j hook anyway?) Call somebody for a price to fix and use the darn thing. IF.. after ten projects...you WANT another machine, because you WANT another machine, buy one.???? Kevin I would never sell something broken or in need of repair without full disclosure.... I just hate to keep pouring money into this machine. The place I took it to has a good rep and does lots of industrial business. But they are tell my it won't sew 138 or higher reliably. Folks here say it will. I put some 138 in and it seemed to do OK but has the random bunching and jamming on the bobbin side...same as the 69 thread... so a bad J-Hook makes sense.... Oh.. A J-hook is the device with the point that the bobbin fits into and slings the thread around to make your stitch.... Let's see. I spent $50 on a "tech" to come by the house and "fix" it for this problem a few months ago. Stopped sewing right the next day. Can't get hold of him now.. Surprise.... Just put a servo motor on it to slow it down.... That part is good. So now I have to put another $275 into it for this repair.... With what I paid for it and will have spent, I could have ALMOST bought a new Consew or something else...... I'm just frustrated, I guess. We do not have enough business right now to justify a whole lot of expense for this machine... But I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.... End of Venting...! Tom Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
KAYAK45 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Hey Tom I was just kidding about the "sucker" thing. I feel your pain. You just want it to sew, right? $275 seems a lot rich to me. Call Bob @ toledo industrial and get a price for the part 866-362-7397. Put it in yourself. Yeh I know what a J is. My bad sense of humor With the servo you are.....sew close.. to having a great machine. Don't back down now! O.K. the whole thing was maybe a mistake. You now have a w155, worth ZERO, accept that, and a servo motor, and now make it work! Your cost, up to now is just that, a cost. IT's gone! What choice now? START OVER? .......... NO WAY. MY MANUAL..says the 111w155 will handle size 24 needles AND..AND that means size 207 thread. It WILL do that and MORE! AFter you asked I went bigger. I am currently running #25 needle with #277 top and #138 bottom thread, on belts and the machine ..loves it... Good luck. Edited October 14, 2011 by KAYAK45 Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members TomG Posted October 14, 2011 Members Report Posted October 14, 2011 Yeah.. Sure... Replace the J-Hook myself. Uh Huh.. Actually, I could probably do it. I've aligned the hook on our 12-needle embroidery machine.. And I have the service and parts manual for the W155. And I am very mechanically adept. The question was "Do I want to"??? Hell no.... the hook is $80. Another $20 for the tension and foot stuff. It's actually worth the $$$ in labor to not have to screw with it,. I decided to go ahead and have them do it. I got to thinking and recalled that every time I go to sew up the back of a folding chair we've emboidered, I have to sew a bunch of test stitches to get the slop out of the bobbin side, and that is never a guarantee.... Screw it... I'm tired of messing with it. If they do it right, I'm good to go on several fronts.. If they don't, they are local and I can go and become a pest Thanks for all of the advise. I'll try the different needle/thread combo when I get it back. Tom Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Members steveh Posted October 14, 2011 Members Report Posted October 14, 2011 Tom, I run a 111w155, with a size 18 135x16 needle triangle point needle by schmetz. i have the stitching set a nine stitches per inch. I use a a size 99 bonded nylon thread.top and bottom.I trench all the stitching channels.I think this makes a nice appearence and works well for belts, notebooks, knife cases ect up to about 1/4 inch thickness of leather.make sure you wind nice level bobbins. tweak your top and bobbin tensions so that you are getting a nice lock stitch. the machine is very dependable. steve Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted October 14, 2011 Moderator Report Posted October 14, 2011 MY MANUAL..says the 111w155 will handle size 24 needles AND..AND that means size 207 thread. It WILL do that and MORE! AFter you asked I went bigger. I am currently running #25 needle with #277 top and #138 bottom thread, on belts and the machine ..loves it... Good luck. Use that combination as decorative stitching or for layers that don't expect to be under a lot of stress. The locked stitches are only as strong as the weakest thread (138). I wouldn't use that 277/138 thread combination on mission critical projects (e.g. Police gear, competition shooting gear, weight lifters' belts).. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members gicts Posted December 7, 2011 Members Report Posted December 7, 2011 I'm curious about the outcome of the OP. I'm looking at my first machine options. There is a Singer 111w155 on CraigsList for $500 that looks tempting. I'm mainly making holsters (right now my hand. Whew!). Would this be a great starting machine? Quote
Members TomG Posted December 7, 2011 Members Report Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) What's an OP? The J-hook on mine solved most of the problems I was having. The sad thing is that I haven't had to use it very much since it was repaired.... But what I HAVE done was OK Tom Edited December 7, 2011 by TomG Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted December 8, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 8, 2011 What's an OP? Tom In the early days of the Interwebs, long before there were forums, there were special interest Newsgroups (SIGS), that used a protocol known as NNTP (Network News Transfer Protocol). A certain jargon developed among members of these SIGS, including shorthand abbreviations for commonly used words and phrases. In NewsgroupSpeak, OP stands for : Original Poster - the person who started the thread to which others were replying. Sometimes these threads became so long that the original message was lost in the ever expanding list of replies. Those who remembered the first poster's question would refer to that person as the OP. Now, I am issuing a C&C Alert to those who are from the NNTP generation. All in the know can reply with the definition of a C&C Alert. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members TomG Posted December 8, 2011 Members Report Posted December 8, 2011 In the early days of the Interwebs, long before there were forums, there were special interest Newsgroups (SIGS), that used a protocol known as NNTP (Network News Transfer Protocol). A certain jargon developed among members of these SIGS, including shorthand abbreviations for commonly used words and phrases. In NewsgroupSpeak, OP stands for : Original Poster - the person who started the thread to which others were replying. Sometimes these threads became so long that the original message was lost in the ever expanding list of replies. Those who remembered the first poster's question would refer to that person as the OP. Now, I am issuing a C&C Alert to those who are from the NNTP generation. All in the know can reply with the definition of a C&C Alert. I'm an old BBS and IRQ guy. Did a little with news groups but not enough to remember all the acronyms and stuff. I don't think I ever knew that one.... I'll wait and see what ya stir up outta the woodpile though Quote Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
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