Need Help On My Machine

[Drognan]

Hello

My Machine is a Taking TK-1245, it's a copy off the famous Pfaff 1245. The problem is that after the first stitch the thread is broken and i can't continue with my work. I have tried to tention the thread- fount work. Threaded the machine and tried again- woun't solve the problem. Threaded the bobbin and still not working. I think it could be that the machines timing is out of alinment or i have the wrong needle. Can anyone tell me what can i too to solve this mess???

Hiers some pics off the mess and the needle witch i think i have threaded wrong.

Thank you very muts!

[Art]

Hi,

Good machine, but you need to thread the needle on the side with the groove in it, not the scarf. You have it threaded backwards.

It uses a 135x16 needle system for leather, which comes in various point styles and sizes.

Art

Hello

My Machine is a Taking TK-1245, it's a copy off the famous Pfaff 1245. The problem is that after the first stitch the thread is broken and i can't continue with my work. I have tried to tention the thread- fount work. Threaded the machine and tried again- woun't solve the problem. Threaded the bobbin and still not working. I think it could be that the machines timing is out of alinment or i have the wrong needle. Can anyone tell me what can i too to solve this mess???

Hiers some pics off the mess and the needle witch i think i have threaded wrong.

Thank you very muts!

[Art]

Got it working yet?

Art

[Drognan]

Got it working yet?

Art

Yes i got it to sew but after stitching some samples it didn't make the seam as clean as i was looking for.

The 2 left seams i made where strait but the oders were to crucet, that was becouse i used the uper upholstery thread in the bobbin.

and on the back side the 2 right ones

The thread that comes under is not pulling the uper thread in and that greats the ugly seam witch you can see in the first picture.

Next was that i had a detail that was broken when i bought the machine. It looks like this-

It is located on the back side of the thread tentioning. In this case the problem is that if i took the machine foot up and pull on the thread it will not give it to me. I think there is something wrong in the back off the thread tentioning.

The silver plate is loose and not in the correct place, i think.

Is there some fix or do i have to order some new parts for it???

[Art]

Your top thread tension is too high, probably because the broken part is the thread check spring. I don't have a Taking manual handy, but that is what it looks kinda like on the Pfaff. You need to get a new part, it won't sew very well without it. This is also why (probably) the thread tensioning device is loose.

Whomever you bought your machine from should replace the spring.

Art

Yes i got it to sew but after stitching some samples it didn't make the seam as clean as i was looking for.

The 2 left seams i made where strait but the oders were to crucet, that was becouse i used the uper upholstery thread in the bobbin.

and on the back side the 2 right ones

The thread that comes under is not pulling the uper thread in and that greats the ugly seam witch you can see in the first picture.

Next was that i had a detail that was broken when i bought the machine. It looks like this-

It is located on the back side of the thread tentioning. In this case the problem is that if i took the machine foot up and pull on the thread it will not give it to me. I think there is something wrong in the back off the thread tentioning.

The silver plate is loose and not in the correct place, i think.

Is there some fix or do i have to order some new parts for it???

[Drognan]

Your top thread tension is too high, probably because the broken part is the thread check spring. I don't have a Taking manual handy, but that is what it looks kinda like on the Pfaff. You need to get a new part, it won't sew very well without it. This is also why (probably) the thread tensioning device is loose.

Whomever you bought your machine from should replace the spring.

Art

Sorry for my bad wreiting!

I bought the machine from a small company owner whos place dident' work out and who doesn't realy know enything from machines. When i saw the Taking 1245 at the first time i hadent hade any change to sew with it because there was no electricity. So i have to say it was a blind deal and there comes the cheap price with it. We have very few real machine companys in our country so it is very hard to finde something but i wrote some letters to the dealerships and are waiting for the answers.

[Art]

The Taking is a very close and good copy of the Pfaff 1245. Any sewing machine shop should be able to order the part for you. I am not sure what your country is, but if you can find a sewing factory (where they sew garments) one of their technicians should be able to help you out, it is a simple fix once you have the part.

Art

Sorry for my bad wreiting!

I bought the machine from a small company owner whos place dident' work out and who doesn't realy know enything from machines. When i saw the Taking 1245 at the first time i hadent hade any change to sew with it because there was no electricity. So i have to say it was a blind deal and there comes the cheap price with it. We have very few real machine companys in our country so it is very hard to finde something but i wrote some letters to the dealerships and are waiting for the answers.

[Drognan]

Today i was able to figure out what's the mader with the thread tensioning. It has a small pipe witch goes through the machine to the back. Some sort of lefer is pushing it out and makes the tentioning blate to loosen the threat. But in the proces of fixing it I axedently twisted one spring. Now when i lift the foot up it gives the thread mutse beder than before but it dident solfe the under thread tentioning. I have tryed pretty much everything accept switching to a different neadle, witch i dount have and are hard to find. Then i realieced that i dount have the proper knowledgement to wigure out what the machine wants. Sow i deceded to take the Taking to a profeccional repairer.

[Art]

It is supposed to do that when you lift the presser foot. You are right to take it to a technician, you need some experience before trying to fix the machine.

Art

Today i was able to figure out what's the mader with the thread tensioning. It has a small pipe witch goes through the machine to the back. Some sort of lefer is pushing it out and makes the tentioning blate to loosen the threat. But in the proces of fixing it I axedently twisted one spring. Now when i lift the foot up it gives the thread mutse beder than before but it dident solfe the under thread tentioning. I have tryed pretty much everything accept switching to a different neadle, witch i dount have and are hard to find. Then i realieced that i dount have the proper knowledgement to wigure out what the machine wants. Sow i deceded to take the Taking to a profeccional repairer.

[Drognan]

Hey everyone!

I have been away. Got the machine back and it worked fine for a wile. I had to use it for some work what had to be done and now a new project came up. And the problem that hunted me is back. Need HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Before i take a job to the sewing machine i make a sample ( every time) to see how the stitch is working with the fabric. So i make the sample and from it i see that the thread that comes from the bobbin witch i have tensioned to the max is seeable from the sample. That's not axeptable. It hase to be so that you see only the uper thread from the top of the sample. To enyone know what the problem is and how to fix it??????? Have to make a foto from the sample and show it to you guys.

The machine is a FLAT BED COMPOUND FEED HEAVY DUTY LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE from TAKING.

TK-1245 SINGLE NEEDLE - WITH CENTRAL RESERVOIR LUBRICATION AND HOOK LUBRICATION

LARGE VERTICAL SEWING HOOK WITH A 60% LARGER BOBBIN THREAD CAPACITY THAN STANDARD SIZE HOOKS.

Max fabric thickness - 14mm.

[Art]

Thread your machine up exactly as when you are having trouble. Take a very high resolution picture front on, same type of picture of the hook.

Specify:

Needle size and system

Thread type and size both top and bobbin

Material being sewn

What material you were sewing before (when it worked), type of needle and thread etc.

Art

Hey everyone!

I have been away. Got the machine back and it worked fine for a wile. I had to use it for some work what had to be done and now a new project came up. And the problem that hunted me is back. Need HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Before i take a job to the sewing machine i make a sample ( every time) to see how the stitch is working with the fabric. So i make the sample and from it i see that the thread that comes from the bobbin witch i have tensioned to the max is seeable from the sample. That's not axeptable. It hase to be so that you see only the uper thread from the top of the sample. To enyone know what the problem is and how to fix it??????? Have to make a foto from the sample and show it to you guys.

The machine is a FLAT BED COMPOUND FEED HEAVY DUTY LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE from TAKING.

TK-1245 SINGLE NEEDLE - WITH CENTRAL RESERVOIR LUBRICATION AND HOOK LUBRICATION

LARGE VERTICAL SEWING HOOK WITH A 60% LARGER BOBBIN THREAD CAPACITY THAN STANDARD SIZE HOOKS.

Max fabric thickness - 14mm.

[Drognan]

So. I checked my sampel when i haden't a prob. and it turns around that it wasent wixed. If i took a closer look it revealed that the porb. is there as you can see on the picture.

Note to me: have to buy some biger lihting to the room.

Specs from the etc:

I use Schmetz size 22 neadle given to me by the mechanic where it was fixed. Apparently NOT!

with a thread of Serafil size 20

My project needs an automotive lether witch stretches a liddle. Hase the same amount of thickness as the black leather.

Next: To the machine it self. From the front

Back side

Side few

What does the black gnob that can be turned around on the dop to exactly???

The walking woot in the UP right position

And in the DOWN right position.

And if hte woot is pulled down. It isent wlat with the table. Strange.

Have a bobbin that came with the machine. Havent changed it.

The case that it will go on the mahćhine.

A pic from the down side of the machine. Maybe it helps.

Now to the setings. Made it to number 5.

The threating of the machine.. Tentioning is at the max.

Then i took the uper threads and the bobbins tentioning to the lowest and started to work with them till i had something what i liked.

At first it made that wierd seam.

Then i noticed that i have to change the bobbins thread to something visible. I chose white. And sew again and tentioned all the time till i got it to the point i couldn't make any adjustments.

Deamn. Have no pic from what i ended up with. Forgot the sample to a friends house. Have to get it back. I will but it up tonight.

So the problem is that the bobbins thread needs to pull a liddle more to take the uper thread down and it dosent to this because its at the maximum of the tention. Sorry if i have a bad writing.

[Art]

You are pulling the thread off the spool by unrolling it. The thread needs to exit the top of the spool going up to the thread guide above the spool and down to the thread guide that sticks up on the top of the machine then down to the guides that go to the tensioner.

Also, back off your top tension.

Art

[Drognan]

You where right. I found it myself too. It is now fixed and i can continiue with the work. Thank you Art for your knowledge and time.

Best wishes Drognan!

[CowboyBob]

It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot.

Bob

[Art]

Bob,

I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot.

Bob

[CowboyBob]

Bob,

I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

[Wizcrafts]

Bob,

... the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

I have a small box full of leftover needles, in 134 R and LR and 134-35 LR.

The 134 R and 134 LR needles are 1.5 inches long and 34 mm from the top of the shank to the eye.

The 134-35 LR measure 1 5/8 inches stem to stern, and are 38 mm from the top to the eye.

Both systems appear to have the same diameter shank: about 5/64"

I'm not sure which were for the Pfaff zigzag head I used to own, and which were used on my 96k40, perhaps with the needle bar raised.

Edited December 7, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[Wizcrafts]

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k.

[Art]

Hi Bob,

If he is using a 134 (I missed that) then indeed the needle is about 5mm too short and the mechanic lowered the needle bar to compensate. I think he is from Estonia, and I suspect that sewing machines and their care and feeding might not be as plentiful as here. I should not be suprised, as I have seen numerous instances of folks thinking the 134 and the 134-35 are the same needle. Nice to know the 134-35 crosses to the 135x16 and 135x17 as I have many different points and sizes in that, but only one or two in the 134-35.

When Drognan first came on the board (and this was a while ago) he was asking about a busted thread guide on his new nachine, and I assumed it happened in shipping. Now everything kind of makes sense and the broken guide was probably from crashing the presser foot. I hope we haven't confused him with our discussion, but he really should get the needle/needlebar issue fixed.

Art

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

[Art]

Hi Wiz,

A lot of the smaller Pfaff industrials use 134 (135x8). The DBx257 or the same by another system (DBx1, 16x87, 16x95, 16x257, 16x231, and 71x1) are used on Singers of light to medium weight. MUVA made some with 2mm shanks, but you'd have to get with Bob to find them. When it gets to old iron, you have to browse the catalogs to find something that might work.

Art

What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k.

[Drognan]

Thank you guys for the awesome info and knowledge that have been a great help but i have had so many problems with this machine and it continiues and continiues to make more problems. I am searching for a new machine that is a lot more stronger and durable than the Taking of mine. I have no time to waste to fix it every week. That's just not an option for me.

What brand should i look for to get the best walkinfoot out there??

I have used a machine witche is the Juki DNU- 1541 and it was great and was flaless. How to you review the JUKI?? is it a mchine to get in a long run???

Best wishes Drognan!!

[Wizcrafts]

Thank you guys for the awesome info and knowledge that have been a great help but i have had so many problems with this machine and it continiues and continiues to make more problems. I am searching for a new machine that is a lot more stronger and durable than the Taking of mine. I have no time to waste to fix it every week. That's just not an option for me.

What brand should i look for to get the best walkinfoot out there??

I have used a machine witche is the Juki DNU- 1541 and it was great and was flaless. How to you review the JUKI?? is it a mchine to get in a long run???

Best wishes Drognan!!

Drognan;

See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models.

Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

[Drognan]

Drognan;

See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models.

Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

It's breaty hard to finde a walkinfoot JUKI in Estonia because there all gone and noone is selling them. I have to look it in Germani or in Finland i guess.

No for the problem that i have this time

Now i have a bigger needle and for a while it worked very well. It's a Groz- Beckert 135x17

The comparison with the schmetz witche is on the left!!

Now when the groz-beckert is but to the lowest positsion that it can be it looks like that and it can't make the loop that it usualy does

And with the schmetz it looks like that

So my conclusion is that the ratchet of the bobbins case is skiping some tooth.

Can this hapen or is it an once in a lifetime error of the machine ??

[Wizcrafts]

The eye of your needle must be below the hook point, on the way up. Otherwise, how can it pick up the loop?

It looks to me as though the needle you identify as the Schmetz is too short. It's eye is above the hook. It is not the same system of needle as the GB, or it would have the same length.

I think you need to lower the GB needle bar 1 millimeter or two and see if that fixes the skipping stitches. You can test this by just clamping the needle in so it sits lower in the needle bar hole. If you lower the needle by a millimeter and that fixes the skipping, then loosen the screw in the face of the head which clamps the needle bar in place and lower it by that amount. Then clamp it tight. Then, reposition the needle all the way up in the needle hole, set it tight and try sewing.

Your goal is to have the needle's eye go below the hook position, then rise up and form a loop. The hook should pass above the eye, inside the cutout area, to grab that loop, but not touch the needle in the process.

If that ring gear is missing teeth, replace it.