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  • Moderator
Posted

Hi Wiz,

A lot of the smaller Pfaff industrials use 134 (135x8). The DBx257 or the same by another system (DBx1, 16x87, 16x95, 16x257, 16x231, and 71x1) are used on Singers of light to medium weight. MUVA made some with 2mm shanks, but you'd have to get with Bob to find them. When it gets to old iron, you have to browse the catalogs to find something that might work.

Art

What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k.

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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  • Members
Posted

Thank you guys for the awesome info and knowledge that have been a great help but i have had so many problems with this machine and it continiues and continiues to make more problems. I am searching for a new machine that is a lot more stronger and durable than the Taking of mine. I have no time to waste to fix it every week. That's just not an option for me.

What brand should i look for to get the best walkinfoot out there??

I have used a machine witche is the Juki DNU- 1541 and it was great and was flaless. How to you review the JUKI?? is it a mchine to get in a long run???

Best wishes Drognan!!

  • Moderator
Posted

Thank you guys for the awesome info and knowledge that have been a great help but i have had so many problems with this machine and it continiues and continiues to make more problems. I am searching for a new machine that is a lot more stronger and durable than the Taking of mine. I have no time to waste to fix it every week. That's just not an option for me.

What brand should i look for to get the best walkinfoot out there??

I have used a machine witche is the Juki DNU- 1541 and it was great and was flaless. How to you review the JUKI?? is it a mchine to get in a long run???

Best wishes Drognan!!

Drognan;

See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models.

Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Drognan;

See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models.

Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

It's breaty hard to finde a walkinfoot JUKI in Estonia because there all gone and noone is selling them. I have to look it in Germani or in Finland i guess.

No for the problem that i have this time :)

Now i have a bigger needle and for a while it worked very well. It's a Groz- Beckert 135x17

09302847155cda.jpg

The comparison with the schmetz witche is on the left!!

0930284737ab31.jpg

Now when the groz-beckert is but to the lowest positsion that it can be it looks like that and it can't make the loop that it usualy does

09302847752af2.jpg

And with the schmetz it looks like that

0930284793b431.jpg

So my conclusion is that the ratchet of the bobbins case is skiping some tooth.

093028489949d6.jpg

Can this hapen or is it an once in a lifetime error of the machine :)??

  • Moderator
Posted

The eye of your needle must be below the hook point, on the way up. Otherwise, how can it pick up the loop?

It looks to me as though the needle you identify as the Schmetz is too short. It's eye is above the hook. It is not the same system of needle as the GB, or it would have the same length.

I think you need to lower the GB needle bar 1 millimeter or two and see if that fixes the skipping stitches. You can test this by just clamping the needle in so it sits lower in the needle bar hole. If you lower the needle by a millimeter and that fixes the skipping, then loosen the screw in the face of the head which clamps the needle bar in place and lower it by that amount. Then clamp it tight. Then, reposition the needle all the way up in the needle hole, set it tight and try sewing.

Your goal is to have the needle's eye go below the hook position, then rise up and form a loop. The hook should pass above the eye, inside the cutout area, to grab that loop, but not touch the needle in the process.

If that ring gear is missing teeth, replace it.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Exactly! The GB is already screwed at the lowest point it can be and it still dousen't make a loop. If a try to take the gb needle more down in the needle bar hole it would fall off.

The ring gear is in a good contition but it misses. Can i adjust the gear some how????

  • Moderator
Posted (edited)

Exactly! The GB is already screwed at the lowest point it can be and it still dousen't make a loop. If a try to take the gb needle more down in the needle bar hole it would fall off.

The ring gear is in a good contition but it misses. Can i adjust the gear some how????

Lower the needle bar itself by the amount necessary to place a properly installed needle at the correct height on the upstroke, to place the eye below the pickup point.

If you have already lowered the needle inside the bar, you may need to move the bar down at least 3 mm. That should position the needle's eye below the hook as it passes the cutout scarf.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

So i but the needle bar at the correct position as Wizcrafts sad and tried to make some stitches but after that i saw another ishue. And that's the needle itself what is now in a fery od sitiutation. The needle is very off the foots hole and when i drag it down it touches the foot and that damages the thread. Plus it's off the tables hole tooo.

093129827fed3e.jpg

093129831722f2.jpg

Can't see where to adjust the needle to get it in the center.

  • Moderator
Posted

Keep looking for a place where you can adjust the sideways position of the needle bar. You can't use the machine with the needle hitting the foot or throat plate hole. Try rotating the needle bar and see if it moves the needle's position at all. The bar might be warped, or the bearing on the bottom worn, or an adjuster screw set improperly.

Are you using the proper needle type? is it a loose fit or tight fit inside the bar? If it is loose and able to wiggle, the needle is the wrong "system" for that machine. The proper needle system should just slide into the bottom of the needle bar and line up directly with the holes.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Tomorrow i will look for a place where i can adjust the sideways position of the needle bar.

And yes i am now using the correct needle for the machine and its the GB. It goes nicely and is thight in the needle bar hole

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