JDM Report post Posted October 29, 2011 A while back I did an experiment. Using the same thread and hole spacing (Barbour 5 cord linen at 6 SPI waxed with a rosin/beeswax mix), I sewed up a few short scraps using only 7-8 stitches. Hand sewn saddle stitching with the loop thrown over each stitch (overhand knot), holes made using an awl. Each was done a little differently. Then I tore them apart using channel lock pliers. What I found is glue (Weldwood contact cement -- red bottle) didn't do much. Glued or not ripped apart about the same. The glue itself held, but the face of the leather tore off. I also found that with some pulling and wiggling, I could, without as much effort as I would have guessed, work loose 2 back stitches. Once they went, the whole thing came apart relatively easily. So, I'm sold on not only starting with a backstitch, but ending with at least three. Maybe 4 for insurance. And, plan to place them at the highest stress points in the piece because they are the strongest part of the stitching. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted October 31, 2011 Thats interesting. I would say if the glue is ripping the face of the leather off then its doing its job. I think I have had a little different experience with handstitching. Ive tried to take apart things I have made before with just 2 backstitches (dont use one on the start since the string is attached from the loop you start with) and ended up just cutting the thread with a razor blade. I use barbours 6 cord and a rosing bees wax mix to wax the thread with. Just curious but why would you back stitch at the beginning, if your doing a saddle stitch it starts as a loop so there is no where that the thread can come loose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted October 31, 2011 Backstitch at the beginning so it looks like the end. When I look at something, I don't want to see how it was done, I want it to look like it landed on earth that way. In other words, no compass line down the middle of a strap to mark the center, no leftover silver ink, no beginning, no end. Of course, it can't always be achieved, but you can sure try. We had a guest in the shop the other day and let him stitch a horn cover, no backstitch at the beginning and two at the end, it looked unbalanced to me. Just my two cents, Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted November 24, 2011 Just curious but why would you back stitch at the beginning, if your doing a saddle stitch it starts as a loop so there is no where that the thread can come loose. i wondered the same thing when i first started to handstitch. but stohlman also has that procedure in his book of handstitching. many times you'll stitch only a straight line, so it would require a backstitch to start and end with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 You dont require one but as others have said it makes it look even. All of my projects that I started out with out a back stitch are still working just fine today. As I mentioned earlier the only way the beginning stitch is going to come loose is if the thread is cut or breaks for some reason. I can see how it would look more even if you did the same thing at the beginning and end though. I will keep that in mind for future projects. Now machine stitching is another story. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scooby Report post Posted November 25, 2011 I'm in no way shape or form an expert but I also backstitch start and end of stitch...... at least I think I do...... in fact I often double the ends quite a lot if it is a high stress area (ie the top of a knife sheath). I'm not sure how to explain myself but I'll do my best. Imagine a line of stitching with each hole numbered - 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 etc I start and finis the same so just reverse the steps at the other end. I start by threading my start at hole 5 and work my way saddle stitching with a twist to lock back to hole 1. Here I either go back to hole 2, back to hole 1 then back to 2 and then continue up the hole numbers to the other end of the stitch line or if the end is an open end I will do the extra one or two loops out and round the piece through hole 1 (hope that makes sense) so essentially in numbers it would be 5 4 3 2 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9........ or 5 4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9....... I've just read and reread that and even I get a little confused however I cant think of an easier way to explain it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites