jsb Report post Posted November 2, 2011 Hi all, I am quite a beginner in leatherwork (started a couple of years ago, but then paused for a very long time) and now want to get back into it. I have done some practice pieces and found that the leather stretches/widens when it is being tooled. I can´t remember that my bigger pieces did that when I made them long time ago. Anyway, somebody gave me the advice to glue the leather to a piece of an x-ray photograph using rubber cement to prevent the leather from widening. Seems logical, but I am wondering: if my work takes longer and needs to be dampened once in a while, I should do that from both sides, right? How to do that when it is glued to something??? Thanks for any help and advice, Julia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildbillz Report post Posted November 2, 2011 i have used a thin piece of pexiglass and glue piece down with rubber cement...casing does not effect it...when job is tooled, carefully remove leather and rub off dried cement...hope this helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Major Report post Posted November 2, 2011 Many people glue it to plexi, personally never cared for doing that. Too much clean up in my opinion. Personally, I like packing tape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew S Report post Posted November 2, 2011 Many people glue it to plexi, personally never cared for doing that. Too much clean up in my opinion. Personally, I like packing tape. When you say packing tape, do you mean that you adhere the plastic packing tape to the flesh side and that prevents shrink and warp? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Major Report post Posted November 2, 2011 Yes. Use the better thicker packing tape. Just be sure to let everything dry before you pull the tape or take it off the plexi When you say packing tape, do you mean that you adhere the plastic packing tape to the flesh side and that prevents shrink and warp? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew S Report post Posted November 2, 2011 Yes. Use the better thicker packing tape. Just be sure to let everything dry before you pull the tape or take it off the plexi Thanks. This seems like a quicker and easier alternative to gluing to cardboard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted November 3, 2011 I use the blue painters tape. Tried packing tape, guess mine wasnt that good. Took forever to get it off in little tiny strips and chuncks. The blue painters tape works pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsb Report post Posted November 3, 2011 Thanks for all the replies. So it seems everybody agrees that it does not work without any plexi, packing tape or whatever? I´d like to try the tape - but living in Malaysia might make that the most complicated part ... I guess it´s impossible to find any high quality tape ;-). I already have to tape my packages for Germany with bits and straps and pieces because it never comes off the roll in one piece. Anyway, thanks again ... now the only other part giving me headache is the proper casing - I never get it done properly :-( Julia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted November 3, 2011 Thanks for all the replies. So it seems everybody agrees that it does not work without any plexi, packing tape or whatever? I´d like to try the tape - but living in Malaysia might make that the most complicated part ... I guess it´s impossible to find any high quality tape ;-). I already have to tape my packages for Germany with bits and straps and pieces because it never comes off the roll in one piece. Anyway, thanks again ... now the only other part giving me headache is the proper casing - I never get it done properly :-( Julia Casing can be tricky. Most mistakes are using too much water and then not waiting long enough for it to dry out some. Try passing the leather quickly under some running water. The grain side should be wet all over but not soaking. Then put it in a plastic bag for at least 8 hours. After that take it out of the bag and allow it to dry out until it starts to look like it is almost dry again. At this point you are ready to use it. It should look almost dry but be cool to the touch. It is hard to learn it but once you get it down it becomes easy. You could quick case it which is done by applying water with a sponge so it gets the grain side wet but not real wet. Then let it sit and when it is looking like it is almost back to normal start to tool the leather. You might need to wet the leather again as you work it. Its not really cased but it is a trick that is used for classes. When quick casing I pass the sponge over the leather once and when the water is absorbed I do it again. Some times it looks too dry and I do it one more time. Then I tool it. You need to learn to case the leather but a quick case is good for when you want to carve more than stamp. It has its place. Keep working on the case method and you will get it. Most people do not let if dry out enough. It should look maybe one shade darker than dry leather. You will get it. Please let me know if that does not work for you. Michae Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites