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Kcinnick

Is A Groove Line Necessary?

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When using my Cowboy 4500, the machine pulls the thread fairly deep in to the leather. I think the stitch lines look better without a groove line, especially on belts. Is a stitch groove necessary for double layer belts and holsters?

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The grove line is to help keep the thread from wearing our over time from surface friction. I do not like the liij either, so I usually do not do it.

Aaron

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Sometimes I groove, sometimes I crease. Usually depends on what I'm building.

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Well, I sewed a belt tonight, after LSU whooped Georgia, without a groove and it was my best looking belt to date, I think I am going to go without grooves. My next two tests are getting a straight line with my edge dye and figuring out my final finish. I tested mop and glo on my last belt, I must have put too much on because it developed slight cracks. I have a can of Clearlac, Neatlac or whatever its called, just haven't tested it yet.

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When using my Cowboy 4500, the machine pulls the thread fairly deep in to the leather. I think the stitch lines look better without a groove line, especially on belts. Is a stitch groove necessary for double layer belts and holsters?

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; probably more needed in hand stitching than with a machine. Mike

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When using my Cowboy 4500, the machine pulls the thread fairly deep in to the leather. I think the stitch lines look better without a groove line, especially on belts. Is a stitch groove necessary for double layer belts and holsters?

I've found that when your groove is in perfect sync with your edge guide, the result can be a thing of beauty, but it's risky, especially when stitching two rows on a belt as I do a lot.

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Nearly all of the belts that I make are ordered as part of a matching set including holster, magazine pouch/cartridge case, etc. As Electrothon has pointed out, the stitching groove is intended to set the stitching below the surface of the leather to avoid excessive wear to the thread, and this can be important for holsters and pouches. Since I am making matching sets, I make the belts in the same manner as the other items, same stitching groove, same distance from edges, etc.

My Cobra Class 4 machine pulls a very tight stitch. Stitching with, or without, the cut stitching groove is nearly identical in appearance. Some machines will not set the stitching with as much tension, so different results may be expected.

I've known other craftsmen who did not use stitching groovers, prefering to use a creasing tool at the edges. This is done while the leather is damp, so the overall effect is rather similar in appearance to the cut stitching groove.

Stitching machines can be equipped with a material guide to maintain an even spacing from the edges to the stitch-line. As Katsass has pointed out, hand-stitching requires a positive guide, so the stitching groove is advisable.

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Nearly all of the belts that I make are ordered as part of a matching set including holster, magazine pouch/cartridge case, etc. As Electrothon has pointed out, the stitching groove is intended to set the stitching below the surface of the leather to avoid excessive wear to the thread, and this can be important for holsters and pouches. Since I am making matching sets, I make the belts in the same manner as the other items, same stitching groove, same distance from edges, etc.

My Cobra Class 4 machine pulls a very tight stitch. Stitching with, or without, the cut stitching groove is nearly identical in appearance. Some machines will not set the stitching with as much tension, so different results may be expected.

I've known other craftsmen who did not use stitching groovers, prefering to use a creasing tool at the edges. This is done while the leather is damp, so the overall effect is rather similar in appearance to the cut stitching groove.

Stitching machines can be equipped with a material guide to maintain an even spacing from the edges to the stitch-line. As Katsass has pointed out, hand-stitching requires a positive guide, so the stitching groove is advisable.

There was very little difference in a perfect stitch in a groove and just stitching without a groove, I am able to get a much more consistent look without the groove. Only problem I have with the groove is if the stitch is just slightly to the left or right, and I am talking fractions of a millimeter, and the belt looks homemade, not hand made....

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When I started sewing with the boss I didn't change a thing. The last time Particle posted a video I noticed he didn't groove for it, I tried it and have been happy with my results.

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I typically just use a creaser to mark the line, and use the tension on the machine (Boss) to keep the stitches tight. On some small hand sewn items, where I am using waxed linen, I WILL groove the line because the linen isn't as abrasion resistant as the nylon. For strength critical items, I won't use a groove because I want all the leather I can get under the stitch.

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It also depends on the size of your stitch. A smaller stitch will pull down tighter than a long one.

Kevin

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