Tree Reaper Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 Use the smooth side Ken, glue the rough side. Cardboard from a cereal box works good on a slab, use the inside of the box for applying the rouge. Kevin. Which side of the leather is glued? I have been away from leather work for a long time, but I thought the strops we had in school were scrap leather with jewlers ruge rubbed into the rough side. That is what I have been using lately. Maybe that is why my swivle knife seems to drag. Quote
Members Ken Cook Posted January 24, 2012 Members Report Posted January 24, 2012 Thanks, I'll try that. Quote
Members cdf Posted January 31, 2012 Members Report Posted January 31, 2012 IIRC , lots of old skool razor strops were grain leather on one side and a very dense felt on the other . What was the felt used for ? I'm a big fan of stropping , and have tried a variety of abrassives , and a couple of metal polishes - haven't settled on anything yet . Anybody tried any of the new diamond pastes ? Chris Quote
Moderator Art Posted January 31, 2012 Author Moderator Report Posted January 31, 2012 Hi Chris, I have seen canvas, not seen felt, or if I have I have assumed it was canvas. Two different levels of abrasion, sometimes the canvas/felt might have been loaded with an abrasive and the leather just oiled and naked. I have used the diamond paste that came with the tormek and it works very well, a little more expensive than the block of green rouge I recommended. Art IIRC , lots of old skool razor strops were grain leather on one side and a very dense felt on the other . What was the felt used for ? I'm a big fan of stropping , and have tried a variety of abrassives , and a couple of metal polishes - haven't settled on anything yet . Anybody tried any of the new diamond pastes ? Chris Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members cdf Posted January 31, 2012 Members Report Posted January 31, 2012 I was checking out a website that supplies lots of straight razors etc , in addition to felt and canvas , linen is used on some strops . Some strops use fairly light leather , might just be a stiffener . Europeans often use much thinner lighter leather than we do , witness some Euro. holsters , and knife sheaths . One tip I got from a pretty good woodworker - don't glue the leather to the wood block , just stretch the leather over the block and secure the ends with nails or staples . Never tried it , but might be worth a look . Chris Quote
Members regalfeather Posted May 10, 2012 Members Report Posted May 10, 2012 Thank You Art you pegged a problem ive had with strops ive made in the past never heard of oiling the leather before to help the compound to adhere. Theve always came out blotchy, high and low spots where the compounds thick or thin. Will have to rework the ones i have so they are usefull. Thanks Again Joe Quote
Members hazymat Posted May 22, 2012 Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 The only thing I need to sharpen (at least at this point in my journey in leather!) is my diamond awl blade. I bought a Tandy awl haft and separate blade. I know many on here swear by other blades, but I'd like to get this one sharp before I give up on it! I'm hoping to pick up an oil stone to get it half sharp in the first place, but for stropping such a small item, is it appropriate to just use a piece of scrap tooling leather (approx 9oz)? Stohlman says to rub the blade back and forward on the edge of the oil stone, then he says strop it. Should I use the same action to strop the diamond awl blade (i.e. back and forward on all 4 edges)? Quote
Moderator Art Posted May 22, 2012 Author Moderator Report Posted May 22, 2012 A business card with some chrome compound on it will work fine for awls and swivel knives. Art The only thing I need to sharpen (at least at this point in my journey in leather!) is my diamond awl blade. I bought a Tandy awl haft and separate blade. I know many on here swear by other blades, but I'd like to get this one sharp before I give up on it! I'm hoping to pick up an oil stone to get it half sharp in the first place, but for stropping such a small item, is it appropriate to just use a piece of scrap tooling leather (approx 9oz)? Stohlman says to rub the blade back and forward on the edge of the oil stone, then he says strop it. Should I use the same action to strop the diamond awl blade (i.e. back and forward on all 4 edges)? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members TTcustom Posted May 22, 2012 Members Report Posted May 22, 2012 Get some 1500grit wet dry paper at the hardware store too and use that. You want that awl sharp, smooth and oh so polished. Quote I am fifty years old and I have always lived in freedom; let me end my life free; when I am dead let this be said of me: 'He belonged to no school, to no institution, to no academy, least of all to any régime except the régime of liberty.' "What we need is more cowbell!"
Members hazymat Posted May 24, 2012 Members Report Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) Thanks Art and TTCustom In order to sharpen just the tip of the diamond awl but leave the rest of the shaft nice and oval with no edge, can you recommend techniques for actually sharpening? I mean, which way do you rub the blade, what angle to hold it at, and how much to work it on e.g. an oil stone to get it initially sharp. Is the technique / action for stropping the same? Sorry, I am completely new to working with hand tools and want to ensure I do it properly! Art: I've googled "chrome compound" and asked around (even spoke to a chem graduate!) but still not sure what this stuff is. Does it have an alternative name? Just need to find a place to pick some up here in the UK. Is it the same effect as using honing oil? I have some of that lying around. Thanks Edited May 24, 2012 by hazymat Quote
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