JRodz Report post Posted December 14, 2011 I was wondering if those of you who airbrushed dye, stain, and top coats would share your techniques and set up? I am curios what size needle, nozzle, and what psi you are using. I think it probably changes between liquids so examples would be great. Also, if you are thinning, with what and at what ratio? Thanks a million. Jose Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted December 14, 2011 I have an old Badger 150 that I've had since the mid-90's. I use a basic Craftsman compressor with a regulator, set at about 45psi - when I press the trigger on my airbrush, the pressure drops to about 35 psi which I think is ideal. The general rule is anything thinner in consistency than milk should spray just fine. What you thin with depends on what you're spraying. Water-based stuff is thinned with water, while everything else should state on the label what to thin it with (denatured alcohol, paint thinner, etc.). The dilution ratio should equal whatever it takes to get the liquid equal to or thinner than milk. My airbrush only has the basic needle/tip that came with it, so i can't help you there, but unless you're doing very fine detail stuff, this shouldn't really be a big deal for most people - whatever the brush comes with should be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) I was wondering if those of you who airbrushed dye, stain, and top coats would share your techniques and set up? I am curios what size needle, nozzle, and what psi you are using. I think it probably changes between liquids so examples would be great. Also, if you are thinning, with what and at what ratio? Thanks a million. Jose Hey Jose, For basic one color or two color fades the Badger 150/200 series airbrushes and their clones (sold at Harbor Freight) work just fine. They tend to have a medium taper needle (.5mm) & noozle which will spray from about pencil line thickness to a 2"-3" cone when held away. Those are a dual action siphon feed type airbrush which means you can attach larger bottles to them for longer spraying sessions. As for PSI, siphon feed generally need around 20-22 psi for thin liquid like water/spirit based dye as a starting point for a heavy coat and for top coat, generaly coverage 30 or so is good. No more than 40 psi or so for thin stuff or you'll get a ton of overspray. If you plan to spray stains & top coats you'll want to either thin it (generally 50/50 is a good ratio, you're looking for the consistency of regular milk) and you may need to up the psi 2-5 depending on how it sprays, atomizes, your movement speed, etc. I generally recommmend a dual action airbrush versus a single simply because you have more control. Shooting basic, single colors & a top coat, single action works fine. But when you want to add two color fades, stippling, background for distressed items, etc. a single action doesn't cut it as well. if you're just getting started, the HF airbrush (Badger clone) will run about $15. As you get more into and decide to try more things there are airbrushes from $15 to $300 depending on what you want to do. If you stick with the basics but want to run a set-up that is easier to maintain, pick up a couple of the HF airbrushes; one for dyes, one for top coats. They are much easier to clean that way especially if the solvents needed to clean are different (alcohol vs water vs paint thinner) as if you use the wrong one, some paints and top coats turn into globby messes and then take an extra hour to pull apart and clean completely. Speaking of cleaning, pick up a set of airbrush cleaning brushes in various sizes. They are basically teeny-tiny pipe cleaners for getting the nozzle and needle channel really clean. Keep in mind, on the cheaper airbrushes the bushings that keep the material from blowing back can vary. Some are not rated for heavy solvents so you'll likely be limited to water & alcohol based products. Higher end airbrushes have tephlon paxking o-rings for higher solvent resistance and polished stainless steel needles for fine detail spraying. Another good source for a starter set is Airbrush Depot & TCP Global on Amazon. They have a knock-off of the Iwata airbrush with a basic air compressor for $75 right now: http://www.amazon.co...=pd_sim_sbs_t_3 Similar to the set you can get at HF but with a slightly better designed airbrush. Hope this helps, Chris Edited December 14, 2011 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 14, 2011 Side note: gravity feed (fixed cup on the top) airbrushes only require about 1/2-3/4 the psi that siphon feeds to. Adjust accordingly to what you end up using. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRodz Report post Posted December 14, 2011 Thanks to both of you for the info, I seem to be on the right track. I have had two Paasche VLS airbrushes for years and pulled them out last night. I have set one up with the 3 set up and the other with the 5 set up. I am using around 25 psi (fiebings dye) to about 40 psi (resolene). I hope to practice enough to start using them regularly. Thanks again for the direction. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 14, 2011 Thanks to both of you for the info, I seem to be on the right track. I have had two Paasche VLS airbrushes for years and pulled them out last night. I have set one up with the 3 set up and the other with the 5 set up. I am using around 25 psi (fiebings dye) to about 40 psi (resolene). I hope to practice enough to start using them regularly. Thanks again for the direction. Sounds like you're well on your way already. The Paasche is a good intermediate brush so it should last you a good while. While you're practicing, play with the air settings also to get familiar with them. Little tricks like cutting the air by half and such will produce some nice effects (cutting the air by half will give you a spatter/stippling effect) as well as adjusting the distance of the airbrush nozzle to the surface. Your airbrushes with the 3 set up & held close to the surface will go down to a 1/32" width line and while you may not use it that way very often, being able to can be handy. Where in So Cal are you? I'm in San Gabriel, about 15 min. east of downtown LA. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRodz Report post Posted December 14, 2011 Thanks Spinner, I am in Oxnard, next to Pt. Mugu. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted December 15, 2011 I was wondering if those of you who airbrushed dye, stain, and top coats would share your techniques and set up? I am curios what size needle, nozzle, and what psi you are using. I think it probably changes between liquids so examples would be great. Also, if you are thinning, with what and at what ratio? Thanks a million. Jose From the old grump; I use the cheapest rig that Harbor Freight sells -- the 'quick change' airbrush rig and their little airbrush compressor. It does everything I need it to do. Solid color dyes --- sunburst fades, etc. Finishes also. 'Taint adjustable, but with just a bit of practice it'll do this kind of job. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRodz Report post Posted December 15, 2011 MIke,That is one beautiful holster. Your post is well taken, years ago I did masonry for a trade and people would complain that the diference between thair work and the journeymen was the tools. Being the smart ass I was, I would trade tools with them just to prove them wrong. Thanks again,Jose Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted December 15, 2011 MIke,That is one beautiful holster. Your post is well taken, years ago I did masonry for a trade and people would complain that the diference between thair work and the journeymen was the tools. Being the smart ass I was, I would trade tools with them just to prove them wrong. Thanks again,Jose How true; Years ago, my scrimshaw instructor (one of the finest firearms engravers in the country) told me that, good tools help, but it's the hand that guides the tool that creates the art. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted December 16, 2011 How true; Years ago, my scrimshaw instructor (one of the finest firearms engravers in the country) told me that, good tools help, but it's the hand that guides the tool that creates the art. Mike I agree but there are also advantages to better tools. The tools can make a difference in quality (Bob Beard tools versus Tandy for example) and a good tool can speed up the process & make it more enjoyable (due to less problems, down time, fatigue, etc). I can definitely tell the difference between my HF, my Badger and my Iwata airbrushes when I use them for various tasks. And while they both have lifetime warranties, I've never needed to use it for my Snap-On ratchets but have replaced my Craftsman three times. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites