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Posted (edited)

This is bumping a thread from 2011However Korokan since you woke this thread up I agree you dye then burnish. However EdgeKote is not a dye it is a paint it is desingned to go on after you burnish. If you burnish you are to some extent closing the pores of the leather it makes it harder for the edge to absorb the dye. This may start a controversy, I personaly don't like edge kote. I dye my edges then burnich some times after the dying then doing an initial burnish I will rub paraffin wax on the edge then burnish again. I have had no complaints about my edges, not sying it is the best way just the way it works for me.

Edited by camano ridge
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I prefer to burnish my edges BEFORE I dye them. I do this because I get a much cleaner, straighter dye line. There is nothing wrong with dying first, but if you are using an spirit based dye, the dye wants to spread and it's harder to get a clean line. I've been using Fiebings and Lincoln spirit dyes since the '60's and don't have any problem with the dye absorbing into the leather. I finish the edge by applying paraffin to the edge after my dye has dried and I polish the edge to a high luster. There is always excess or residual dye which is removed during that process. Problems getting the dye to absorb into the leather are usually related to the use of gum tragacanth or bees wax being used to burnish the edge. Those products seal the leather and dye will not penetrate them. If you like using those products you must dye the edge before burnishing. I avoid the use of edge kotes because they peel off, are dull in finish and don't look as good as a dyed edge. I don't know any professionals who use them. To me, an edge kote would only be used by a production shop in an effort to reduce costs. That suits me just fine because in comparison, my edges just look that much better, LOL!

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That suits me just fine because in comparison, my edges just look that much better, LOL!

YES!! I don't match your edging, but I do constantly stress a good edge. I used the EdgeKote once, watched it peel off before my eyes, then stripped it and went back to dye (I have a bottle of edgekote if anybody wants it).

Seriously, following Bob's edging guide, you can't have any problems getting a perfect edge and getting it colored. Throw the Gum Trag out because it's a crutch. I only use Fiebing's Pro Oil and get good coverage every time. Admittedly there are times where It's a little light, but then I just add some oil to the edge and then apply another coat. This is all AFTER burnishing. I tried dying before burnishing once and made a mess of my leather. Also, remember to buff your edge BEFORE you seal it. The edge is just like any other part of the leather and you will have residual pigment left on there.

Here's an edge I did a couple weeks ago for reference. This is sanded, burnished using glycerin saddle soap and a cocobolo burnisher, dyed, buffed, sealed with a touch of Resolene, then a final buff using some beeswax and a piece of denim (buffed until my fingers could feel the heat being generated). That edge will last forever and if feels/looks like glass. Remember, shortcuts only make you money if you're pumping stuff out on an assembly line. Making money through hand crafting requires perfection in hand crafting :)

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