Dog Collar Questions.

[Chavez]

Hi!

I would like to make a dog collar for a german shepherd and I'm wondering if there are any special considerations to take into account when making a dog collar.

I'm thinking of either using 1 layer of 3mm leather or 2 layers of 2mm stitched together flesh-to-flesh. What's the best option?

How should I finish the flesh side if I'm using 1 layer only? Would gum trag do or will it go bad when the collar gets wet? Resolene the flesh side?

I guess there's nothing wrong with sealing the collar with resolene on the grain side? How do I preserve the collar from going hard, deforming and losing the carving when it gets wet?

Any materials that I need to stay away from as they may be harmul for dogs, etc? Are brass fittings ok?

Thank you for your help!

[McJeep]

I'm just starting on dog collars - I use two layers, if for no other reason than to be able to sandwich things like dog tag and leash rings between them. That way the rings are around the entire thickness of the collar itself thus making them stronger - I make mine for big dogs ;0)

I've been using 3 or 4 oz latigo for the inner layer to aid with moisture issues like wet fur, and 7 to 9 oz leather for the actual collar.

Bottom line in my book is if someone's got a water dog, the need to swap to a nylon collar when they head to the beach if they want the nice leather one to last.

Biggest lesson I've learned - do not skive the collar leather down in order to make things flatter and more attractive where it attaches to the buckle - that one didn't last long with an excitable 100lb Rotti pup LOL Will start producing them for clients once I think I have the design down as perfect and safe as possible.

[Jimbob]

important word I read there>>> SAFETY!!!<<<

Yes it could be a real issue and eventually a legal mess, or worse if you have a Mastiff or a Rottweiler on a pretty to look at collar...nice rivets, glas stones and colorful thread.....cool....then this 150 plus pound animal gets spuked or sees a critter to chase...U are in deep dodoo, if this pretty collar is not made in a safe way!! So first important issue is as read >>SAFETY!!

and yes, latigo is a good choice on the inside....then a good second layer of 7-8 oz veg tanned on the outside...glued and stitched!!

Make shure the hard ware is not from your local co-op store....use first quality d-rings (doubble them ) and use top notch carabine hooks...use at least 138 thread...seal with good wax or neatlac...I think brass is ok, if you keep it clean...

Oh, and yes....spikes, red suede and hog hair on a traditional English mastiff collar looks sooooo good!!

I have to fat girls, one brindle English Mastiff and an apricot one.....over 300 pounds together....a force to be recond with...so lets make safe and good looking collars!!

Good thread here....hope more people chime in...

Jimbob

[Spence]

Depends on the behavior of your GSD, somewhat. Well behaved, doesn't lunge or pull, not prone to go after other beings...then a 5/7 oz single ply with the buckle end turned under for 2" to keep the D-ring or square loop in place. I always glue, rivet and stitch for big dawgs. I'm picky about finishes and stuff like that. I use Olive Oil almost exclusively. I try to keep customers wanting black. That way I can do the vinegaroon and cut back on chemicals and ruboff.

If your GSD is all of the above, and I have a couple, then I would recommend a 1-1/4 or 1-1/2" (I've gone up to 2") wide 2-ply collar. I usually go with a 5/7 oz doubled. The wider collars prevent or diminish the possibility of larynx damage.

If your GSD is on it's last legs and has trouble keeping up with you, a 3/4" collar will work. Otherwise, a minimum of 1" wide.

Most of my work now goes to competition dogs - Schutzhund, Personal Protection, K-9, etc. I do collars up to 3" wide for the Bully breeds, corsos, rotties,etc.

Now, I'm not sure, but there may be some arguments about this but it's my way and I'm comfortable with it. I will NOT use chrome-tanned leather on a dog. I used to haul hazardous waste on the west coast for years and I hauled plenty of chromium salts from the old tanneries to a place in Idaho that keeps them buried in 55 gal. drums for future generations to figure out what to do with them. All one has to do is do a Google for the MSDS on chromium salts and it's double ugly. I spend a few minutes more with the leather and it's just as soft. Plus, the chrome-tanning process destroys the cell structure of the leather. That signifies significant weakening to me. It might work for awhile on a chihuahua, but it's an escape waiting to happen on a big dawg.

g'luck and have fun.

[Chavez]

Thanks for your replies!

The dog is not mine, so safety is definitely the main priority.

I'm now thinking of a 2-ply, 1" or 1-1/4" wide collar, outer layer being 3mm (that's 7-8oz, right?) tooled veg tan and inner layer being 4oz veg tan.

I'll stick to resolene as a sealer as theat's the only acryllic sealer I have at the moment (unless there are some strong reasons not to go for it), but what should I cover the edges with? I've got some edge kote but I've got a feeling that its going to run when the collar gets wet. I don't think that resolene does a good job on the edges, does it?

What do you think of backing the stitching up with some chicago screws? Should I use normal rivets instead?

As I'm new to leathercraft, I only have a couple of spools of tandy waxed thread. What exactly is 138 thread? The place I get my supplies from shows thread size as 18/3, 18/4, etc.

Fittings wise I'll stick to good quality solid brass ones if brass as long as its ok for dogs. When fixing the rings, should I only fix them around the outer, 7-8oz layer, or do I need to fix them around both layers?

Thanks for the skiving advice - I was thinkign of skiving those places a little bit, but now I won't do it (though if fittings only fixed to outer layer, I guess I can skive the inner layer a wee bit).

[McJeep]

I like using the double bar buckles - anyone know of a supplier that does them in stainless in sizes above 1" ??

As for inner layer skiving, I stop my inner layer with a butt joint at the end of the outer layer by the buckle turnback (hope that makes sense) and it smooths the area out a bit this way. My inner layer is solely to provide a moisture barrier and provide a good way of anchoring the D ring (I like mine at the top of the collar vice by the buckle) from moving around.

I use peened solid copper rivets instead of speedy rivets.

Edited December 18, 2011 by McJeep

[McJeep]

Thread sizes

http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf

[Spence]

McJeep,

Try the buckleguy.com

A place I like is Beiler's Mfg in PA. They are Amish, so no website.

You have to call them at 717-768-0174.

The have double bar buckles in SS above 1".

1-1/2" SS $1.06,

1-3/4" SS $1.22,

2" SS $1.34.

If you don't want to call them, send a letter requesting a catalog to:

Beiler's Manufacturing & Supply

3025 Irishtown Rd.

Ronks, PA 17572

Also, I get solid brass and solid stainless rivets from rjleahy.com

Great people to work with. With the brass, you need to ask for matching washers because they don't come with burs.

[Chavez]

Thanks for the conversion chart!

Does anyone know what size the standard tandy thread is?

[McJeep]

McJeep,

Try the buckleguy.com

A place I like is Beiler's Mfg in PA.

Muchos Garcias on all counts Really appreciate it and now won't have to alter my design to fit the hardware I can get

[Scary Leatherworks]

Thanks for the conversion chart!

Does anyone know what size the standard tandy thread is?

Chavez, do you mean Tandy's waxed linen thread? that is 6ply (6cord) I believe.

[Chavez]

I meant the one you get in a beginner's set. Don't think that's linen.

Well, I've done some googling and it looks like linen 18/3 is what I need...