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Posted

On many of the sheaths I make, I line the back of the sheath(veg tanned) with smooth chrome tanned or upholstery leather. I think it gives them a nice look and feel. My question is does anyone know if

they make a line snap with a longer than normal post? The standard line 24's I'm using require me to recess the leather in order for enough of the post to show to be able to set the snap. I accomplish this tedious task with a dremel tool. I'm completely self taught so I'm sure I'm missing something. Normally the two pieces of the sheaths I build that snap together to secure to the belt are extremely thick. Hope I articulated this problem

well enough for the experts to help me out. I'll try and take a picture if need be. Thanks for your help in advance.

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Posted

Looked at their snaps and they are pretty much standard sizes. I can't believe nobody else has ran into this problem with thick leather?

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Posted

There likely comes a point where it's impractical to do snaps due to the nature of the beast - if they were to get too long in the shaft, I would imagine they would be too easy to bend etc.

You haven't given any specifics as to what actual thicknesses of leather you're referring to - actual dimensions would help people know where to point ya :)

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Posted

There likely comes a point where it's impractical to do snaps due to the nature of the beast - if they were to get too long in the shaft, I would imagine they would be too easy to bend etc.

You haven't given any specifics as to what actual thicknesses of leather you're referring to - actual dimensions would help people know where to point ya :)

This is 5-6 oz leather lined with 3-4 oz leather making it i guess around 8-10oz. Both sides that connect with each other are this thickness so once the two pieces are snapped together you have a piece of leather thats easily half an inch thick if not more. Like I said what I've done is recessed the leather to allow the post to clear and be set. I'm guessing my solution is really all that can be done unless they make an oversized snap.

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Posted

try putting the snap into the main leather then line. this hides the snap backs and less leather thickness to go through also.

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Posted

This is 5-6 oz leather lined with 3-4 oz leather making it i guess around 8-10oz. Both sides that connect with each other are this thickness so once the two pieces are snapped together you have a piece of leather thats easily half an inch thick if not more. Like I said what I've done is recessed the leather to allow the post to clear and be set. I'm guessing my solution is really all that can be done unless they make an oversized snap.

Ayup, that's a lot o' leather! Never seen a snap that long before. Anchoring it though one layer before attaching the two layers probably wouldn't work??

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Posted

i use Line 24 snaps in 8 to 10oz leather all the time. they don't roll down as far, but i haven't had any of them come apart.

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Posted

But Blazin is dealing with *two* 10 oz layers - mega thick! LOL

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Posted

But Blazin is dealing with *two* 10 oz layers - mega thick! LOL

yep, i missed that. looks like his only option is to set 'em between the layers.

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Posted

Actually I just need to find an alternate lining material and I should be ok. The sheaths just come out really substantial when I use the remnants I've been using. To me they feel like they'll be around forever. This dilemma comes from using the scrap leather from tandy. Usually the pieces big enough for what I want to accomplish are also fairly thick. Need to find some thin upholstery leather to use as a liner I guess or keep recessing my snaps with my dremel tool.

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Posted

Actually I just need to find an alternate lining material and I should be ok. The sheaths just come out really substantial when I use the remnants I've been using. To me they feel like they'll be around forever. This dilemma comes from using the scrap leather from tandy. Usually the pieces big enough for what I want to accomplish are also fairly thick. Need to find some thin upholstery leather to use as a liner I guess or keep recessing my snaps with my dremel tool.

Springfield leather has good prices on lining leather.

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Posted

When I've had this problem I've sometimes used a 11.5mm closed stem tubular rivet in place of the usual snap stem. Grind off about 1mm from the closed end of the rivet, which opens up the tube, and set in the usual way with the roll-over tool.

post-7199-014011100 1324513748_thumb.jpg

Posted

Actually I just need to find an alternate lining material and I should be ok. The sheaths just come out really substantial when I use the remnants I've been using. To me they feel like they'll be around forever. This dilemma comes from using the scrap leather from tandy. Usually the pieces big enough for what I want to accomplish are also fairly thick. Need to find some thin upholstery leather to use as a liner I guess or keep recessing my snaps with my dremel tool.

Upholstery tanned leather a bad idea, chrome tannrd leather good (for liners). Just use the proper thickness of leather.

Set your shap in the outter layer before you assemble. This will properly set the snap, solve your issue and properly protect the snap from touching on the backside.

Posted

When I've had this problem I've sometimes used a 11.5mm closed stem tubular rivet in place of the usual snap stem. Grind off about 1mm from the closed end of the rivet, which opens up the tube, and set in the usual way with the roll-over tool.

What a great idea! I never use those ruvets, but literally have thousands of them from buying out other people stuff. Maybe a use for some of them .

Aaron

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Posted

Awesome idea Leatherworker! Now to find where to buy those rivets. Wish the rivet had a button like portion like the regular line snaps.

  • 4 years later...
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Posted

Old thread, but figured I would post for anyone like me looking around for answers. I was having a similar problem, and was led to Ohio Travel Bag. On their web site they have a couple of new items. Two line 24 snap caps with 7/16 inch posts! Due to shipping costs and the need for everything RIGHT NOW (just need to finish this holster) I did not place the order. Unfortunately there are only two options at this time, black oxide and nickel plating. Both, I believe are solid brass and about $0.75 for one piece.

Posted

there is always tee nuts and screws too if it fits. I find the 6/32 tee's and 6/32 brass screws perfect for those occasions where I need a snap in super thick leather and you can get them at the local hardware store.

alex

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Posted

there is always tee nuts and screws too if it fits. I find the 6/32 tee's and 6/32 brass screws perfect for those occasions where I need a snap in super thick leather and you can get them at the local hardware store.

alex

Thanks Alex. Online, the only ones close to that small are pronged, not the brad hole. Are these the ones you've used?

Posted (edited)

Thanks Alex. Online, the only ones close to that small are pronged, not the brad hole. Are these the ones you've used?

I use the ones with the prongs but I take an end nip and I cut the prongs by about half but leave them sharp. I have found them in brass but the steel ones are available everywhere. I keep a little bag of 6-32 brass screws in 3/8 and 1/2. If its going on a black item I paint it with nail polish. Here is the set up going through three pieces of 8-9 oz leather.

post-38507-0-09966200-1458763727_thumb.jpost-38507-0-13117500-1458763725_thumb.jpost-38507-0-54845000-1458764278_thumb.j

Edited by Boriqua
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Posted

French beveler is a handy tool to have around... skive/countersink the back side

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