mrfixit Report post Posted December 19, 2011 I understand there are different ways of making belt slots. I have tried a couple myself. But i have a question about the details of the slot itself. No matter whether you drill holes and then cut with an exact-o or chisel, or punch a hole and connect the same way, or even use a punch to do it all at once....... how wide are the belts slots supposed to be? S[specifically; for a 1.5 inch belt, the belt slot would be exactly 1.5? or do you give a little wiggle room and make the slot 1.6? And what is the 'standard' width? 1/4, 5/16, 3/8? Trying to learn and improve my work. Thanks Mr Fixit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shooter McGavin Report post Posted December 19, 2011 I make mine .375 x 1.6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marine mp Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Like Shooter, I make mine 1.6 or 1 5/8 and I make the width to SLIGHTLY over 1/4" and let the belt do the rest. Semper-fi Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Sizes of belt slots must accomodate the belt width, belt thickness, and the angle of the slot to the belt. Belt slots that are 1.5" in length will accept a 1.5" belt only when the slots are perpendicular to the belt-line. Any angle to the belt slot will require greater length. (Try it; draw two parallel lines 1.5" apart, then draw a slot-line at 45-degree angle, and measure that line; it is much more than 1.5"). Many knowledgeable folks will use heavy-duty belts to support the holstered handgun. These are frequently around 0.25" in thickness, so the width of the belt slot must be sufficient to allow the belt to pass through. When doing patterns I always start out by drawing two parallel lines representing the upper and lower belt-lines. Carry height and holster cant are easily established relative to the belt-lines. Then the belt attachment points (slots or loops) can be established and marked on the pattern. If the slot or loop is to be angled this is easily done on the pattern, then transfered to the leather for cutting. The holster styles that I make most frequently have belt slots angled to approximately the same angles as the handgun, which I find best for pulling the holstered handgun firmly into the body when belt tensioning is applied. Since the slots are angled, and the angles are always a bit different depending on the handgun profile and holster cant, I have found that standard slot punches are not the best method for me. Nothing wrong with good slot punches, but for my purposes I would need half-a-dozen or more and they are both expensive and can be a chore to sharpen. My procedure is to make marks at the upper and lower ends of the belt slot. Then, using a 3/8" drive punch, I tap two marks to establish the ends of the slot. Then I use wood chisels of appropriate length to make the long cuts for each side of the slot, connecting the two round punch impressions. After the long cuts have been made I return to the 3/8" drive punch and complete the upper and lower ends. Nice clean result every time, takes only a couple of minutes to do, and the slot is a perfect fit to the belt. During the wet-forming process I form each belt attachment point on a wooden mandrel simulating the belt dimensions (1.5" X 0.25", 1.75" X 0.25", etc), which both forms the slots and aligns them for the belt, making the holster ready for break-in and use. The work must be fully supported on a surface that will not damage the chisel blades and punches. The softer plastic kitchen cutting boards work nicely for this and last through thousands of uses. A 3-lb. mallet works well for driving the chisels and punches. Round drive punches are pretty economical (+/- $5.00 or so), and good wood chisels are readily available (@ $10.00 to $20.00 each, or in sets including several widths) and easily sharpened and maintained. So, a couple of drive punches and 4 or 5 wood chisels, totalling around $75.00 or so, take care of all my slot-cutting needs. A half-dozen slot punches would cost $250.00 to $350.00 or so, and give me fits at each sharpening time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marine mp Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Ray, That was excellent and maybe the moderators could "pin" this. How 'bout it?? Semper-fi Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
triage1998 Report post Posted December 19, 2011 Ray, That was excellent and maybe the moderators could "pin" this. How 'bout it?? Semper-fi Mike I agree Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrfixit Report post Posted December 19, 2011 I agree An excellent answer. Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted December 20, 2011 Yup - I agree with Lobo, that's how I do it as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
