Belt Backs

[snowgoose]

I'm having problems finishing off the backs of my belts.

( as I'm only just starting out, I'm using Tandy's belt blanks )

I can't seem to get my belt backs nice and smooth like on some pictures on here. Every time I try, it either ends up blotchy, rough or just generally not as I'd like them to be.

So, are there any tips and tricks for nicely finishing belt backs off so they come out nice and smooth?

Regards

Jake

[leatherjunkie]

I'm having problems finishing off the backs of my belts.

( as I'm only just starting out, I'm using Tandy's belt blanks )

I can't seem to get my belt backs nice and smooth like on some pictures on here. Every time I try, it either ends up blotchy, rough or just generally not as I'd like them to be.

So, are there any tips and tricks for nicely finishing belt backs off so they come out nice and smooth?

Regards

Jake

best tip is to get better quality leather and leave the tandy leather for others to use.

on belts i usually spray on the dye or dip dye them. this helps me get a even coat of dye.

i have just started using herman oak tanned leather and realized that this leather is way better than tandys leather.

the herman oak is tanned in the united states(which is great for me). the flesh side is way smoother than tandys and takes dye better than tandys leather.

after finding out that herman oak is way better to work with than tandys leather i will nolonger buy tandys leather.

[electrathon]

Yup, Tandy belt blanks are pretty bad. If you care about the backs, call Springfield or someone else. Much of the Herman Oaks flesh side leather looks almost as good as the Tandy grain side.

Also, a lot of the belts you see on here are two layers thick, so there is no flesh side to see.

Aaron

[King's X]

I have used Tandy blanks in the past. You can use a fine grit sand paper and sand the back side carefully. I have had good luck after sanding. There is no comparison with Hermann Oak, Wickett & Craig, etc. But the price reflects the difference. I guess it is like my wife likes to remind me constantly............you get what you pay for!

Good luck

[snowgoose]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I had a feeling it may be down to the actual leather, as I've read a few things about Tandy's leather on here.

I'm in the UK so will have to source some over here. Will try Le Provo, they seem to have a nice rep over here for their leather

[ramrod]

i usually line my belts with pigskin or a lighter leather. i don't have to worry about the flesh side of the leather.

[Nick69]

You wont be dissapointed with LePrevo, all of my leather comes from them. Strange ordering system but ive never had a problem with them.

[gringobill]

You might try Feibings saddle soap on the the back followed by a glass slicker, that will smooth it up some. Be careful not to get the saddle soap on the grain side/front of the belt.

[azrider]

I will sometimes finish the top and edges of the belt, and then flip it over on a cloth of some sort (once it is completely dry) and use a little water on the back, and rub saddle soap in with a piece of canvas. This will help clean up the back of the belt. Once thats dry, I sometimes will add a finish on the backside of the belt as well.

[Art]

You can get leather with pasted backs from a lot of Tanneries, but if you are in GB, try Baker or Sedgwick leathers.

Art

[Treed]

I'm having problems finishing off the backs of my belts.

( as I'm only just starting out, I'm using Tandy's belt blanks )

I can't seem to get my belt backs nice and smooth like on some pictures on here. Every time I try, it either ends up blotchy, rough or just generally not as I'd like them to be.

So, are there any tips and tricks for nicely finishing belt backs off so they come out nice and smooth?

Regards

Jake

I agree with better leather, but that doesn't fix the problem with what you have now. The best fix is get a bottle of Gum Tragacanth from Tandy or other leather provider. Apply a liberal amount to the back of the belt and rub it in, I usually used my fingers. After rubbing it in so that it penetrates good I use a wooden slicker or glass slicker and rub it over the back smoothing out the leather and removing the excess Gum Tragacanth. I then lightly wipe down the back with a paper towel or rag and let it dry. I forgot to mention that if you are dying the belt that this is done before applying the Gum Tragacanth. Gum Tragacanth is a natural glue and I use it on most all of the unlined holsters I do on all the leather, leaves a very smooth and finished product.

What ever you use to finish the front also apply to the back of the belt.

Bobby R

Edited December 21, 2011 by Treed

[snowgoose]

Thanks for all the replies,

I will try some Gum stuff and see what happens :D

Regards

Jake

[Chavez]

Hi Snowgoose!

I'm a newbie here and I haven't made any belts yet, but I'll be making them from 2 pieces stitched flesh-to-sflesh when I do. This does not only let you forget about the flesh side, but it also makes your belt more waterproof, especially if you resolene the back.

When you're buying gum trag, make sure you get the liquid "leather" version. I was stupid enough to buy it in powder and its a pain to dilute.

It does slick the flesh side but I seem to get a much better result if i slick the back with a cloth empregnated with beeswax after the gum trag dries up.

Gum trag might help you slick the flesh side, but it will turn into complete mess the next time you are caught in heavy rain and the belt gets wet.

I'll also suggest Leprevo leathers for all your future supplies. The guys are very helpful and charge a bit less than tandy.

[DoubleC]

best tip is to get better quality leather and leave the tandy leather for others to use.

on belts i usually spray on the dye or dip dye them. this helps me get a even coat of dye.

i have just started using herman oak tanned leather and realized that this leather is way better than tandys leather.

the herman oak is tanned in the united states(which is great for me). the flesh side is way smoother than tandys and takes dye better than tandys leather.

after finding out that herman oak is way better to work with than tandys leather i will nolonger buy tandys leather.

I mentioned somewhere else I wanted to start making my tack myself (when I say tack, I'm talking headstall, breast collar and reins, not saddles) and being on disability I'm not ashamed to admit that I have to look for the best bang for the buck, and that WAS going to be Tandy. (the herman oak is tanned in the united states). So does Tandy's leather come from China like everything else they sell? My whole business is based around handmade in AMERICA. Cheryl

[electrathon]

Most of Tandy leather comes from Mexico, none is USA made. Herman Oak leather is a good choice, Tandy does not sell it, they have live oak, I guess trying to emulate the quality name to trick newcomers. Springfield leather is a good choice.

Aaron

[Art]

I am going to +1 to Aaron's choice. If you are just starting out, Kevin at Springfield can sell to you in less than full sides which can be easy on the pocket. He has a leather shop on premises, so he can cut you belt blanks if that is what you need. Kevin and clan are always there for any questions if you need that, although don't talk to the dog unless you just need to vent, he isn't that good a leatherworker.

Until you get to buying sides of leather, SLC is a good choice, and even after that, if you like Hermann Oak, SLC is still good as HO requires a 10 side minimum.

Art

Most of Tandy leather comes from Mexico, none is USA made. Herman Oak leather is a good choice, Tandy does not sell it, they have live oak, I guess trying to emulate the quality name to trick newcomers. Springfield leather is a good choice.

Aaron