Tooling Fades Out ....

[terrymac]

Sorry Terrymac, Tandy may have sell some cheap leather but this doesn't sound like it's the problem in this situation. The OP even states the leather looked damp when he stamped it. That's a casing issue. You say you know how to case leather so you should know that leather should not look damp at all when you start stamping and leather will not stay burnished if it is damp when stamped because the moisture will force the fibers of leather to relax. End of story. That would make it a casing issue.

I have never ever had an issue with Tandy leather being chalky. In all the leather I've bought from Tandy I've had one issue where the fiber on a portion of a shoulder was too loose and wouldn't take a good impression. That's the only problem I've ever had with Tandy leather and that was my own fault for not checking closely enough when I purchased it.

By the way, why would you not return the bad merchandise and just toss it into the trash? Are you seriously in the habit of throwing away your money like that?

I had purchased a third blank a little over a year ago that was the same thing. As our kids were about to return to Germany, I went ahead and finished it, and after antiquing, etc., it looked presentable, but not what I like. I just assumed I had gotten a bad piece, but the new ones were the same. Why return them when I would end up some more of the same? I just got me a new side of Herman Oak, so problem is solved. Maybe I am too picky, but with the time invested, the cost of the leather is the cheapest part of the project.

Terry

[Suicide]

Maybe I am too picky, but with the time invested, the cost of the leather is the cheapest part of the project.

That is what I completely agree with!

Cover the portions you're not tooling with plastic or glass to prevent over-drying.

If the leather does get too dry, CAREFULLY flip it over and spritz with water....on the flesh side only. This will get moisture back into the leather without getting the grain side too damp. While you're tooling, avoid flexing the tooled areas too much, as it causes the fibers you just compressed with the stamp to start moving.....effectively un-burnishing the stamping.

Thanks, TwinOaks, it is definitely make sense.

So thanks everybody for your pointed me the root cause.

I'm going to practice with more

Happy New Year!

[HellfireJack]

No Problem Suicide, glad to help!

I had purchased a third blank a little over a year ago that was the same thing. As our kids were about to return to Germany, I went ahead and finished it, and after antiquing, etc., it looked presentable, but not what I like. I just assumed I had gotten a bad piece, but the new ones were the same. Why return them when I would end up some more of the same? I just got me a new side of Herman Oak, so problem is solved. Maybe I am too picky, but with the time invested, the cost of the leather is the cheapest part of the project.

Terry

You don't have to exchange them. You should get your money back and I would post pictures of those items here and I would make sure Tandy knew I was doing it in hopes that they change their cheap leather selling ways. For all the people who complain about Tandy you never see the actual complaints except for the occasional newbie now and then who bends a kit Crafttool. I would hope that if Tandy did ever see actual complaints here and on other websites they'd respond in some way. The only real issues I've ever seen posted are about bent Crafttools and we all know that Tandy will replace those without question.

Of course there are those people who purchase an extremely low priced piece of leather and expect it to be the same quality as the high end products like W&C or Herman Oak. That's about as silly as someone buying a Honda Civic and expecting it to perform like a Ferrari.

Edited December 27, 2011 by HellfireJack

[Chef niloc]

A trick I found is to cover the back with clear packing tape.other tape works, but packing tape is what I found to work best. This trick is particularly useful when folding leather to keep the tooling crisp.

1) Case leather as described above

2) Cover back with tape

3) Stamp

4) Let sit for a day or two (fully dry)

5) Take off tape

If folding:After steps 1-3

4) After stamping let the piece sit over night

5) Fold

6) Let sit for a day or so

7) Take tape off.

Note: using "block out" after the 1st day of drying or after folding but before the tape is taken off helps to.

The tape does three things:

1) keeps the leather cased bette

r2) Reduces stretching when stamping

3) Reduces shrinking when drying

Other things that may help to:

1) use casing solution, store bought or home made

2) A hi-tec speed casing can be with a home vacuum sealer (food saver) the vacuum insures that the leather is cased evenly and compresses the fibers. Will case leather in a hour or two but I usually still let it sit over night. It's also great if you want to keep leather per-cased as it will keep mold from growing for weeks unrefrigerated.

3)Slick the leather on a hard surface to compress and even out the cells.

Edited January 3, 2012 by Chef niloc

[Suicide]

A trick I found is to cover the back with clear packing tape.other tape works, but packing tape is what I found to work best. This trick is particularly useful when folding leather to keep the tooling crisp.

Thanks for these tips, I'll try this out.