yankeeinoz Report post Posted December 28, 2011 I would be so thankful if someone could explain the correct way to cut bridle and strap points by hand. I am trying to cut a straight point shape and a church window (aka english point) shape by hand but I can't seem to get a consistent cut on both the right and left sides. I have tried various techniques including cutting one side flesh up then the other grain up and I still can't get it right. My feeling is that my knife skills are severely lacking but can't seem to find any tutorials that show the actual cutting part of the process. I know that I can buy end punches for the church window shape but the good ones are really pricey and I still haven't found one that does the traditional bridle straight point (not the pointed end one). Cheers, yankeeinoz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavsgt Report post Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) I would be so thankful if someone could explain the correct way to cut bridle and strap points by hand. I am trying to cut a straight point shape and a church window (aka english point) shape by hand but I can't seem to get a consistent cut on both the right and left sides. I have tried various techniques including cutting one side flesh up then the other grain up and I still can't get it right. My feeling is that my knife skills are severely lacking but can't seem to find any tutorials that show the actual cutting part of the process. I know that I can buy end punches for the church window shape but the good ones are really pricey and I still haven't found one that does the traditional bridle straight point (not the pointed end one). Cheers, yankeeinoz Make your self a guide out of brass or set a scribe for the width and length of the cut. Make a light mark on the end and side for the desired removal piece use your pound or head knife to make the cut. After you cut a couple thousand tips it will become a snap:rolleyes:rolleyes2: . I have never found a good way to free hand an English point but fold a piece of paper in half and cut a long arc, open and see if it is what you are looking for if not try again. After arriving at an acceptable point transfer it to something more durable such as a piece from the lid of an ice cream container. If you will send me the price of a gallon of good ice cream I would be glad to save you the onerous chore of eating it and will send you the lid. . Time spent acquiring patterns is time well spent. Edited December 28, 2011 by cavsgt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yankeeinoz Report post Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Cavsgt, Thanks kindly for the very good templating advise. You know, I hadn't thought of making templates in the way you suggest. In fact I hadn't even thought of marking the end cut as well as the side cuts on the straight point. Tell me, what method do you think works better when making the cut on the straight point, pushing the knife toward the end point or up toward the long end? And, how can I avoid undercutting the leather when I make the side cuts? I try and hold the knife vertically but it still undercuts? As for the ice cream eating offer, it would definitely cost you more to send the lid to Oz than it would cost to buy the ice cream in the first place. But thanks all the same. Cheers, yankeeinoz Make your self a guide out of brass or set a scribe for the width and length of the cut. Make a light mark on the end and side for the desired removal piece use your pound or head knife to make the cut. After you cut a couple thousand tips it will become a snap:rolleyes:rolleyes2: . I have never found a good way to free hand an English point but fold a piece of paper in half and cut a long arc, open and see if it is what you are looking for if not try again. After arriving at an acceptable point transfer it to something more durable such as a piece from the lid of an ice cream container. If you will send me the price of a gallon of good ice cream I would be glad to save you the onerous chore of eating it and will send you the lid. . Time spent acquiring patterns is time well spent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRLeather2 Report post Posted December 29, 2011 (edited) Here is how I cut strap pionts. Set your dividers to the width of the strap to be cut. Set your dividers along side the strap and swing them in an arc across the opposite side of the strap. Repeat this for the other side. Cut with your edged weapon of choice, I use a head knife and make a series of straight cuts to my scribed lines. After a quick sanding job there you have it..... Edited December 29, 2011 by Jeffzilla Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yankeeinoz Report post Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Jeffzilla, Spot on tutorial! This info has solved the big problem I was having when scribbing the cathedral with my compass. I keep loosing the points of reference for the bottom points and consequently the tip of the arc when swinging the compass leg because I find it hard to keep the stationary leg from moving around (I thought my compass was wonky). I have the exact same cutting board as in your photos so now I know to use the grid to help keep postion, huzzah! Also, thanks for explaining your cutting technique. I think this tutorial is definitely worth putting into the leatherworkers.net tutorial section, I looked there but didn't see one on this particular subject. Thanks again, yankeeinoz Here is how I cut strap pionts. Set your dividers to the width of the strap to be cut. Set your dividers along side the strap and swing them in an arc across the opposite side of the strap. Repeat this for the other side. Cut with your edged weapon of choice, I use a head knife and make a series of straight cuts to my scribed lines. After a quick sanding job there you have it..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavsgt Report post Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Cavsgt, Thanks kindly for the very good templating advise. You know, I hadn't thought of making templates in the way you suggest. In fact I hadn't even thought of marking the end cut as well as the side cuts on the straight point. Tell me, what method do you think works better when making the cut on the straight point, pushing the knife toward the end point or up toward the long end? And, how can I avoid undercutting the leather when I make the side cuts? I try and hold the knife vertically but it still undercuts? As for the ice cream eating offer, it would definitely cost you more to send the lid to Oz than it would cost to buy the ice cream in the first place. But thanks all the same. Cheers, yankeeinoz Cut to the end of the strap always. With a round knife it is easier to tell when it is perfectly vertical. One rule should never be broken is cut going away from anything you value. I have been guilty of being in a hurry and not living by the rule. We have some very neat scars from the times we hurried. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justken Report post Posted December 29, 2011 Hello!..I keep an asst of lids to use as templates,anywhere from 1" to up around 10".Liter pop bottle caps to cookie tins. Just mark center of strap,pick out curve you like and go from center mark to edge of strap.Quick and easy!If your going to use same pattern a lot then make up a template out of heavy card stock or plastic.I make mine about 6" long,then punch a hole in far end to hang from a nail or put on a shower ring with different sizes...Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piedmont Report post Posted November 10, 2013 Ken.. You have no idea how you've changed my life... In summary.. I purchased some templates that were off kilter.. Then I went and bought not one but two English point strap punches.and for the last three days I've been blasting away at some straps all to no avail. I was literally about to give up and just give in to never cutting an english strap end.. Then I come upon your very simple explination.. Find the center and use a circle to the edge of the strap.. I go out to the garage, put a new exacto blade in, pick up ANOTHER strap and no s#|+++ it worked!!!! Out of all the tools I have, this simple idea worked... Ken you are a saint. Thank you much! Todd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakota21 Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Hi, I am new to the forum and mainly a knifemaker getting into making my own custom sheaths. And usually abide by the axiom "that it is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than to open and remove all doubt". Anyway her is my idea...I have found that using templates of my favorite patterns saves me time and improves precision of reproduction. I found using the thin plastic(?) cutting boards (WalMart) make excellent templates. They are easy to cut and very durable. I would make a set for each style and size of strap. Place on strap,scribe and cut with head knife . Mean while save my pennies and buy the punches. Hope this is helpful. Safe cutting Dakota Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BDAZ Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Dakota, I use the same flexible cutting boars made out of thin polypropylene. One suggestion is to wipe them down with acetone or MEK to remove the mold release which makes it less slippery. In addition, I write all relevant information on the pattern plus a center line with alignment holes. Cya! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakota21 Report post Posted December 31, 2014 Bob, I do the same but did not know about the wipe down. Good idea, Thanks Aic Dakota Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites