Work Bench Surface

[Bmorebhoy]

I just beginning to leatherwork and am planning a small workbench for my apartment. I plan to use 2x6 for the frame and 4x4s for the legs and sink the 1-foot by 1-foot granite to be level with the bench surface.

My question is; what's the best material to use as a bench surface?

I was planning to use 3/4" A/B plywood. My brother-in-law is an advocate of particle board because it's always flat and he can push the leather against the edge when sewing and the needle will go into the particle board easily. But I'm concerned with the particle board chipping and since the bench will be a fixture in my small apartment, not in the basement or a garage, I think the plywood will look better and I can stain it. I see some folks are using kitchen counters but since my bench will be about 34' wide, with an end leaf of 18", and 22' deep, I'd be waisting a lot of countertop. Plus they all seem to be particle board.

Thanks in advance for any help and opinions.

[electrathon]

A solid core flat door is usually cheap to buy and they are one of the best bench surfaces you will ever find.

Aaron

[dirtclod]

I wouldn't use the particle board either. It will come apart if it gets wet plus chipping off. I use plywood or OSB. You could put a piece of masonite over the plywood or OSB if you don't want to stain or paint them. If you use plywood i would get C D grade . Your not building a piece of furniture just a place to work and i would check on the price of 2x4's along with a 4x4. Two 2x4's nailed togeather may be cheaper than a 4x4.

[TOM123]

I used plywood for mine and sealed them with polyurethane works great if you get it wet just wipe it off and it is dry again, also I used a 2X6 in the front with a notch to slide another 2X6 into that has different tools/machines (boss stitcher, splitter, riveter, etc.....) mounted on them, this makes more bench space because when not in use I can take the tool/machine out and put it under the bench.

My top is 1" thick, I didn't want to have a soft bench top but the 3/4" should be fine, I also put a 2X4 in the middle of the top frame to make it even more solid, you just don't want to ever have to move it--it weighs a ton.

also if you put a shelf under the bench this will help make it solid.

I would be concerned with the particle board scratching the leather in time as the particle board breaks down.

[gringobill]

I just beginning to leatherwork and am planning a small workbench for my apartment. I plan to use 2x6 for the frame and 4x4s for the legs and sink the 1-foot by 1-foot granite to be level with the bench surface.

My question is; what's the best material to use as a bench surface?

I was planning to use 3/4" A/B plywood. My brother-in-law is an advocate of particle board because it's always flat and he can push the leather against the edge when sewing and the needle will go into the particle board easily. But I'm concerned with the particle board chipping and since the bench will be a fixture in my small apartment, not in the basement or a garage, I think the plywood will look better and I can stain it. I see some folks are using kitchen counters but since my bench will be about 34' wide, with an end leaf of 18", and 22' deep, I'd be waisting a lot of countertop. Plus they all seem to be particle board.

Thanks in advance for any help and opinions.

Eletrathon is right a solid core door is as good a bench top as you'll find. If you want to go all out put 1/4" thick high density polyethylene sheet on top of that. It's tough , an awesome surface to cut and punch on and easy to keep clean. Not real cheap, but it'll be there for awhile I think I paid about $40 for a 4'x8' sheet? can't remember for wur3e

Bill

[Ferg]

I made mine of Melamine over MDF. Great surface, it can be washed off etc.

ferg

I just beginning to leatherwork and am planning a small workbench for my apartment. I plan to use 2x6 for the frame and 4x4s for the legs and sink the 1-foot by 1-foot granite to be level with the bench surface.

My question is; what's the best material to use as a bench surface?

I was planning to use 3/4" A/B plywood. My brother-in-law is an advocate of particle board because it's always flat and he can push the leather against the edge when sewing and the needle will go into the particle board easily. But I'm concerned with the particle board chipping and since the bench will be a fixture in my small apartment, not in the basement or a garage, I think the plywood will look better and I can stain it. I see some folks are using kitchen counters but since my bench will be about 34' wide, with an end leaf of 18", and 22' deep, I'd be waisting a lot of countertop. Plus they all seem to be particle board.

Thanks in advance for any help and opinions.

[evandailey]

I made mine of Melamine over MDF. Great surface, it can be washed off etc.

ferg

My work table is 4'x4' and I made it from a sheet of 3/4" MDF cut in half and glued the two layers together. I put about 5 coats of polyuerethane on it, sanding between each coat. It's slick as glass and moisture resistant. The MDF is dense and absorbs shock well. I have a 2'x4' piece of new conveyor belting I keep on top for cutting and a 1'x2' marble slab I slide around for stamping. It works well.

[Bmorebhoy]

The solid core door sounds a good idea. Can they be cut down to size?

I looked online at doors but couldn't determine what the core was made of and if it could be cut and drilled to suit my needs.

Thanks for the replies and helpful information, folks.

[TigerPal]

Solid core doors usually have the core made of strips of wood, somewhat like 2 x 4's glued together, so yes, they can be cut down. You might try looking at your local lumberyard or builder's supply or salvage place - they sometimes have damaged doors which are steeply discounted, but would still be good for your purpose (especially if the damage is only on one side).

[electrathon]

The solid core door sounds a good idea. Can they be cut down to size?

I looked online at doors but couldn't determine what the core was made of and if it could be cut and drilled to suit my needs.

Thanks for the replies and helpful information, folks.

Flat solid doors are particle board with a thin veneer on them. They have a strip of solid wood around the outside that the knob/hinges fasten to. You can cut them no problem but you will have an exposed particle board edge. Particle board is very dense, so it is a good, actually great bench top. They are so thick and solid there is very little bounce. If you are using 3/4 plywood there will be a night and day difference going to a solid door. An 80" tall door supported on each end can easily hold 200 pounds with almost no flex. Try that with a piece of plywood and you will have a lot of flex.

Aaron

Edited January 3, 2012 by electrathon

[Catchndreams]

Home Depot, kitchen counter top. ready made. Set it on frame and legs and cut center out for your granite or marble. I have them all over my shop. 2 ft, 4 ft 8 ft long. They clean up nice.

[cowcamp]

After a lil experimenting this is what i came up with ..... table is 4x4 legs and 2x6 joist

top is 7/8 tounge and groove osb 5' 8'. i filled the seam and nail holes with bondo and

then using a 12" knife used regular dry wall mud and layed a skim coat over the whole thing.

sand it down and u get a surface like glass you can draw on. i used lacquer but imagine any poly or

clear coat would work to seal it.

i set a 1/8 " edge above the surface of the table and layed bed liner for trucks "available at

lowest home depot or auto parts store and filled it level to the top of the form. took 3 cans to do it and

the used a piece.of floor trim to make sure it was even across whole table. the result is a

whole.table withal cutting mat it does scar after few months of steady use.

repairs are easy though sand a little and fill with bed liner again.

it took right at 85.00 dollars mostly for the bed liner.

just what works for me.and hope it helps any one needing a.big table

Edited January 15, 2012 by cowcamp

[reddevil76]

This is a nice topic.

I currently have a table with metal frame and legs. Its ok, except that the table surface is laminated plywood.

I am thinking of removing it and replacing it with something else. There are counter tops which I readily buy from IKEA here in Singapore.

Read here that particle board is solid with no bounce. How about solid oak or solid birch? Hope to hear opinions from those who knows their wood.

http://www.ikea.com/sg/en/catalog/categories/departments/kitchen/10472/

[Tree Reaper]

If using solid wood, quarter sawn has the grain coming through the face of the board and would be better for pounding on but it's usually custom cut and more money than plain sawn .

A hardwood like quarter sawn oak would be solid.

How about solid oak or solid birch?

[reddevil76]

If using solid wood, quarter sawn has the grain coming through the face of the board and would be better for pounding on but it's usually custom cut and more money than plain sawn .

A hardwood like quarter sawn oak would be solid.

The funny thing with this IKEA tops is that they say its solid oak, yet I can see the whole thing is formed by joining multiple pieces together. I can imagine the first time i pound on it, the whole thing would go into smitterens...

[oldtimer]

The funny thing with this IKEA tops is that they say its solid oak, yet I can see the whole thing is formed by joining multiple pieces together. I can imagine the first time i pound on it, the whole thing would go into smitterens...

I don´t think it will break pounding on it, as long as you don´t use a heavy sledge hammer.

( swedish quality, you know .... )

/ Knut