Members mrfixit Posted January 5, 2012 Members Report Posted January 5, 2012 This holster making is getting addicting. I was given a revolver, a S&W 586 with 4" barrel. I need to make a holster for it. What I am trying to envision is a tooled holster, OWB, without a retention strap. So I have 2 questions; 1. how do I build in retention on the holster for a revolver and 2. how do i build in retention without smoothing out the tooling I bet there is some easy answer, but I cant figure it out. Quote
Members katsass Posted January 5, 2012 Members Report Posted January 5, 2012 This holster making is getting addicting. I was given a revolver, a S&W 586 with 4" barrel. I need to make a holster for it. What I am trying to envision is a tooled holster, OWB, without a retention strap. So I have 2 questions; 1. how do I build in retention on the holster for a revolver and 2. how do i build in retention without smoothing out the tooling I bet there is some easy answer, but I cant figure it out. From the old grump; I don't make many holsters with a safety strap, but here is a picture of some from an old Smith & Wesson catalog that will give you an idea. Mike Quote
Members Eaglestroker Posted January 5, 2012 Members Report Posted January 5, 2012 I recommend adding a center welt to the holster. I do a lot of revolver holsters and a LOT of L frame holsters without straps. The welt adds a lot of strength to the piece long term. Feel free to look in my gallery for a few examples. Quote
Members particle Posted January 5, 2012 Members Report Posted January 5, 2012 I don't do many revolver holsters, but hopefully these will help. You can pinch the leather down over the top edge of the cylinder just a bit to help grab the top of the cylinder will give some retention - but don't do it too severely or you won't be able to remove the revolver. Also, you'll want to leave enough leather at the top that you can flare the top edge back out to create a funnel to help clear the top edge of the cylinder and guide it into the holster - in other words, make sure you opening at the top is wider than the cylinder itself, or the leading edge of the cylinder will hit the top edge of the leather and you won't be able to get the revolver in the holster. If you can indent the leather inside the trigger guard area that will help too - if you can't do it on the outside (the surface facing away from the body), definitely do it on the inside face towards the body since it won't be as visible. If you make your tooling impressions nice and deep and let the leather dry completely, I think you'll be surprised how durable the tooling is when it comes time to form the holster. Just use your fingers - don't use any hard tools or you will definitely start to mess up your tooling. This holster was still a work in progress when I took the photo, but it sorta shows the flared out opening on the top and how it's pinched down at the top edge of the cylinder. Here's a quick sketch looking from the front edge of the holster showing the revolver along the top edge and the front and back pieces of leather - hopefully it graphically shows what I'm talking about... Quote
Members katsass Posted January 5, 2012 Members Report Posted January 5, 2012 This holster making is getting addicting. I was given a revolver, a S&W 586 with 4" barrel. I need to make a holster for it. What I am trying to envision is a tooled holster, OWB, without a retention strap. So I have 2 questions; 1. how do I build in retention on the holster for a revolver and 2. how do i build in retention without smoothing out the tooling I bet there is some easy answer, but I cant figure it out. Sorry, disregard my previous post. I misread your post (wrong glasses). Particle has it down well. I use two layers of leather in almost all of my holsters, and only use a welt in certain wheelguns such as the Ruger Super Blackhawk and sometimes L frame S&W's, but the retention is created by good hand molding on heavy enough leather as well as proper drying of the holster allowing for solid firmness and rigidity.. Mike. Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted January 6, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted January 6, 2012 Look up Jim Simmon's tutorial on making a holster. In it he shows how to measure and build the holster so that it will have retention without the need for ANY molding. Once you get that part down, you just tool the outer piece and assemble as he instructs. IIRC, the holster he built was a cowboy style rig....but the concept of measuring the holster remains the same for both types of revolvers. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.