Hand Sewing

[brennamagill]

Hey all, I've been teaching myself the leather trade. I'm trying to find a local saddle maker to possibly apprentice with, to really learn all the tricks and touches of the trade. Until then, I have a couple books, a couple hides and and a part time job, allowing me time to practice. I'm due to buy some new thread though, and am torn after all of my research. I've got an idea of what I need but then, don't know how to find the right stuff. I 've been stitching with a no. 6 overstitch wheel (sometimes a 5), and have a range of leather sides that are 3.5 - 8 0z. Hand stitching is my method of choice. I'm curious people's opinions on pre-waxed or not, and linen or nylon. And whatever else, like gauge or strand, brand. I've shopped some online, and book binding thread is closest to what I imagine I should have, but I have no clue its strength or quality, cobblers thread seems more like what I should find. Please help me! There are so many options. Its important for me to use the best materials I can, do it right the first time!

[Spence]

check out mainethread.com

I've just started using their .40 and .45 linen thread and I'm liking it.

[katsass]

Hey all, I've been teaching myself the leather trade. I'm trying to find a local saddle maker to possibly apprentice with, to really learn all the tricks and touches of the trade. Until then, I have a couple books, a couple hides and and a part time job, allowing me time to practice. I'm due to buy some new thread though, and am torn after all of my research. I've got an idea of what I need but then, don't know how to find the right stuff. I 've been stitching with a no. 6 overstitch wheel (sometimes a 5), and have a range of leather sides that are 3.5 - 8 0z. Hand stitching is my method of choice. I'm curious people's opinions on pre-waxed or not, and linen or nylon. And whatever else, like gauge or strand, brand. I've shopped some online, and book binding thread is closest to what I imagine I should have, but I have no clue its strength or quality, cobblers thread seems more like what I should find. Please help me! There are so many options. Its important for me to use the best materials I can, do it right the first time!

well guy, I learned to hand stitch a long time ago, with waxed linen thread. After trying some different synthetic threads, I still used waxed linen. I make holsters and items associated with shooting sports and a #6 overstitch is ideal for most jobs. As to stitching my advice is to take your time, concentrate, and make every stitch EXACTLY the same as the one preceding it. Here's a sample of my hand stitching. OH, I just purchase Waxed Linen Thread from Springfield Leather. Mike

Edited January 24, 2012 by katsass

[Mijo]

check out mainethread.com

I've just started using their .40 and .45 linen thread and I'm liking it.

Spence - I checked mainethread's website and I don't see linen thread on there. Is that something I would need to call them about, or is it listed on the website and I'm just looking in the wrong place? I saw the cotton thread section but my understanding is that cotton and linen are not the same thing

Katsass - Is the waxed linen thread from springfield better than what Tandy offers? Looking at the description of the thread on Springfield's website it appears to be the same.

I just started hand sewing myself so I'm also interest in what other people are using.

[556guy]

Check out Royalwood Ltd for Irish waxed lined thread. They carry a wide range of colors in 2 ply to 12 ply.

http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm

[Spence]

Spence - I checked mainethread's website and I don't see linen thread on there. Is that something I would need to call them about, or is it listed on the website and I'm just looking in the wrong place? I saw the cotton thread section but my understanding is that cotton and linen are not the same thing

Katsass - Is the waxed linen thread from springfield better than what Tandy offers? Looking at the description of the thread on Springfield's website it appears to be the same.

I just started hand sewing myself so I'm also interest in what other people are using.

It appears that I've mislead folks. I just checked mainethread and the stuff I'm buying is now called "waxed polycord". When I bought the 8 spools originally, I was under the distinct impression it was "waxed linen cord". I don't know what happened, but I apologize.

That aside, I'm happy enough with it that I will continue using it. Not too much and not too little wax. The colors that I bought (Earth tones) fit all of my needs.

Katsass: Keep in mind that Springfield is a dealership, of sorts, for Tandy. I don't know what their arrangement is, but in all the dealings I've had with Springfield, I've never been disappointed. In fact, I'm almost continually surprised at the level of customer service/satisfaction they display. It takes me back 40-50 years. lol

Sorry for the bad info folks.

[jk215]

I came across this diagram that I have been using as reference for thread/overstitch settings..

[Mijo]

Check out Royalwood Ltd for Irish waxed lined thread. They carry a wide range of colors in 2 ply to 12 ply.

http://www.royalwood.../cat14-17ar.htm

556 - Thanks for the link, I was actually looking around for a supplier for colored linen thread. Is ply the same as cord? If it is I noticed that Royalwood doesn't carry 5 cord linen thread and according to the the Art of Hand Sewing when using a #6 overstitch your suppose to use 5 cord linen thread. In this case is it better to go up or down in cords / plys?

Spence - No worries. I thought maybe the linen thread was something new they were carrying and their website had not been updated yet.

[katsass]

Spence - I checked mainethread's website and I don't see linen thread on there. Is that something I would need to call them about, or is it listed on the website and I'm just looking in the wrong place? I saw the cotton thread section but my understanding is that cotton and linen are not the same thing

Katsass - Is the waxed linen thread from springfield better than what Tandy offers? Looking at the description of the thread on Springfield's website it appears to be the same.

I just started hand sewing myself so I'm also interest in what other people are using.

Mijo; Well, frankly, I don't know. I quit using the 'T' place some time ago. They used to be pretty good 30 or so years ago, but my experience is that their quality of goods has diminished since their reorganization. Mike

[Scary Leatherworks]

556 - Thanks for the link, I was actually looking around for a supplier for colored linen thread. Is ply the same as cord? If it is I noticed that Royalwood doesn't carry 5 cord linen thread and according to the the Art of Hand Sewing when using a #6 overstitch your suppose to use 5 cord linen thread. In this case is it better to go up or down in cords / plys?

Spence - No worries. I thought maybe the linen thread was something new they were carrying and their website had not been updated yet.

The thread from Tandy/Springfield is 6ply/cord. I have used it for awhile and haven't had any problems with it so far. I have the Royal wood thread card and personally if I were going to order from them I'd go with the 7 cord for any heavy duty items and 4 cord for smaller things. This is just my 2 cents.

[Mijo]

The thread from Tandy/Springfield is 6ply/cord. I have used it for awhile and haven't had any problems with it so far. I have the Royal wood thread card and personally if I were going to order from them I'd go with the 7 cord for any heavy duty items and 4 cord for smaller things. This is just my 2 cents.

Scary - Thanks for the input / comments. I thought the tandy waxed linen thread looked a little thick on my projects, I should have been using 5 ply to go with the #6 overstitch. I make small dog (<20 lbs) harness, collars and leads so I'll probably go with 4 cord thread from Royalwood as the 7 cord will probably look worst than the 6 cord tandy thread i'm already using.

[556guy]

I agree with Scary on this. I find royalwoods 7 cord to be a good choice for belts/ holsters/sheaths etc. Tandys 6 cord, for me, seems to look like a bulkier thread.

[craig h]

well guy, I learned to hand stitch a long time ago, with waxed linen thread. After trying some different synthetic threads, I still used waxed linen. I make holsters and items associated with shooting sports and a #6 overstitch is ideal for most jobs. As to stitching my advice is to take your time, concentrate, and make every stitch EXACTLY the same as the one preceding it. Here's a sample of my hand stitching. OH, I just purchase Waxed Linen Thread from Springfield Leather. Mike

[craig h]

Katsass I like the fine job you did on your holster...espically the dye are stain finish. Would you mind telling us newbies how you obtained such a fine result.

Thank You...Craig h

[katsass]

Katsass I like the fine job you did on your holster...espically the dye are stain finish. Would you mind telling us newbies how you obtained such a fine result.

Thank You...Craig h

OK Craig; First, thanks for your compliment re. my work, I appreciate it. I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned leather bonded together on their flesh sides. My patterns are drawn by me individually for each customer --- very seldom will I make a duplicate of anything. I use 'Weldwood Contact Cement' for all of my work. My method requires stitching all edges but I believe that that enhances the finished holster. The method also gives one a lined rig. Apply the cement per the instructions, stick the two together and roll with an old wallpaper roller then forget it overnight. This holster was made for a Colt 1911 Long Slide as a 'transport' holster --- no belt loop. The colors are a combination of Fiebing's Saddle Tan and Fiebing's Dark Brown applied with the cheapest airbrush the Harbor Freight (Their 'quick change' rig) sells. After the dye is applied I wait 24 hrs. before touching the work, then apply a very light shot of neatsfoot oil through the airbrush and wait another 24 hrs. I then do my stitching. When that chore is completed, I wet mold and (since I live in the desert) allow old Ma Nature do the warming and drying. The final step is the application of a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glo' (the floor stuff).and water. It's almost identical to 'Super Sheen' and most all of the Sheen products --- at about 1/10 the cost. I 'mist' on a coat of the stuff, allow to dry for a half hour or so then do it again. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and finish with some Kiwi Neutral shoe polish rubbed in by hand --- no rag, applicator etc. A very light coat is all that you want, then buff with a soft cloth. On my stuff I have a lead time of about two weeks or so, but nobody expects an old man to do anything in a hurry --- besides, I may want to go fishing. Anyhoo, my customers know that they will wait for their stuff --- made to their order and expect that the workmanship is worth the wait. No gripes in over 50 years now. Hope this gives you a hand. My method ain't quick, but it works well for my stuff. Mike

Edited January 27, 2012 by katsass

[Mijo]

I agree with Scary on this. I find royalwoods 7 cord to be a good choice for belts/ holsters/sheaths etc. Tandys 6 cord, for me, seems to look like a bulkier thread.

I went with Scary's and your suggestion and changed my order from 4 cord to 7 cord. I was real hesistant to go down in the number of cords and your comment about Tandy's 6 cord being bulkier sold me on royalwoods 7 cord. I saw that campbell and bosche offers a 5 cord waxed linen, but they only offer it in white and no colors.

[craig h]

OK Craig; First, thanks for your compliment re. my work, I appreciate it. I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned leather bonded together on their flesh sides. My patterns are drawn by me individually for each customer --- very seldom will I make a duplicate of anything. I use 'Weldwood Contact Cement' for all of my work. My method requires stitching all edges but I believe that that enhances the finished holster. The method also gives one a lined rig. Apply the cement per the instructions, stick the two together and roll with an old wallpaper roller then forget it overnight. This holster was made for a Colt 1911 Long Slide as a 'transport' holster --- no belt loop. The colors are a combination of Fiebing's Saddle Tan and Fiebing's Dark Brown applied with the cheapest airbrush the Harbor Freight (Their 'quick change' rig) sells. After the dye is applied I wait 24 hrs. before touching the work, then apply a very light shot of neatsfoot oil through the airbrush and wait another 24 hrs. I then do my stitching. When that chore is completed, I wet mold and (since I live in the desert) allow old Ma Nature do the warming and drying. The final step is the application of a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glo' (the floor stuff).and water. It's almost identical to 'Super Sheen' and most all of the Sheen products --- at about 1/10 the cost. I 'mist' on a coat of the stuff, allow to dry for a half hour or so then do it again. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and finish with some Kiwi Neutral shoe polish rubbed in by hand --- no rag, applicator etc. A very light coat is all that you want, then buff with a soft cloth. On my stuff I have a lead time of about two weeks or so, but nobody expects an old man to do anything in a hurry --- besides, I may want to go fishing. Anyhoo, my customers know that they will wait for their stuff --- made to their order and expect that the workmanship is worth the wait. No gripes in over 50 years now. Hope this gives you a hand. My method ain't quick, but it works well for my stuff. Mike

[craig h]

Thank you Mike for the lession...I am a retired senior trying to learn leatherwork and would like to learn holster making. In your opioin which book would be best to purchase to lean the art of holster making..I want to spend my dollars in the right way.

Thank you again..Craig h

[katsass]

Thank you Mike for the lession...I am a retired senior trying to learn leatherwork and would like to learn holster making. In your opioin which book would be best to purchase to lean the art of holster making..I want to spend my dollars in the right way.

Thank you again..Craig h

Well Craig, my advice to anyone starting to work out how to make holsters is to buy Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters" It's dated in some ways, but will really give you a good start on the procedures and the necessary skills required. Most of the leather supply outfits carry it, and at somewhere around $12 or so, it's well worth the nominal cost ( especially compared to some other books I have) I bought my copy in the early 60's, after playing around with leather for a while prior to that --- and I still have it and use it occasionally. Good luck in your pursuit of working holsters. Mike

[oarsman]

If I can jump into this thread please... I've recently gotten back into leather work after many many years... All of my projects up to this point have involved hand stitching with black waxed thread (from Tandy...) I am currently working on a sheath project which is going to have a natural finish on it, and I have chosen to use tan waxed thread (from Tandy...) for the stitching... Today I stitched the belt loop on it and when I pulled each stitch tight the thread lost it's tan color and turned grey... The leather is unfinished, and my hands are clean... I'm at a loss... Suggestions please???

[oarsman]

If I can jump into this thread please... I've recently gotten back into leather work after many many years... All of my projects up to this point have involved hand stitching with black waxed thread (from Tandy...) I am currently working on a sheath project which is going to have a natural finish on it, and I have chosen to use tan waxed thread (from Tandy...) for the stitching... Today I stitched the belt loop on it and when I pulled each stitch tight the thread lost it's tan color and turned grey... The leather is unfinished, and my hands are clean... I'm at a loss... Suggestions please???

Allow me to make some clearifications... The thread I'm having trouble with is "natural" linen waxed thread and the finish on the sheath will be "clear-lac"... I may be pulling the thread too tight and the compression of the wax and the thread fibers appear darker/dingy/greyish... I don't know... I may need to find more of a white thread than a natural thread to accomplish the look I'm going for...

Katsass, if I can ask..., what color thread was used on the holster you have shared???

Edited January 29, 2012 by oarsman

[katsass]

If I can jump into this thread please... I've recently gotten back into leather work after many many years... All of my projects up to this point have involved hand stitching with black waxed thread (from Tandy...) I am currently working on a sheath project which is going to have a natural finish on it, and I have chosen to use tan waxed thread (from Tandy...) for the stitching... Today I stitched the belt loop on it and when I pulled each stitch tight the thread lost it's tan color and turned grey... The leather is unfinished, and my hands are clean... I'm at a loss... Suggestions please???

oarsman, that was natural waxed linen from Springfield Leather. First you might make SURE that the thread from Tandy IS linen. Tandy sells some stuff for 'hand stitching' that is not linen. After that, I might suggest that you do something like my procedure and see if it helps. I pull the thread I'm to use through a piece of paper torn from a brown paper grocery bag in order to remove as much of the surface wax from it as possible. For some unknown reason other types of paper don't work nearly as well. Pull the thread through a folded piece of the stuff quickly enough to be able to feel a bit of heat --- a couple or three times. Then pull it through a block of beeswax once. Pull it through your fingers once to remove excess, and then go to town stitching. It works for me. I just don't use Tandy for anything much anymore --- they were fairly good 40 years ago, but have diminished in quality (IMO) in more recent times. Mike

P.S. If the thread came on a spool of any sort, and/or the label in or on it says 'Tex' anywhere in it --- it ain't linen.

Edited January 29, 2012 by katsass

[oarsman]

Thank you Mike, I'll give your suggestion a try and let you know how it turned out...