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The thread from Tandy/Springfield is 6ply/cord. I have used it for awhile and haven't had any problems with it so far. I have the Royal wood thread card and personally if I were going to order from them I'd go with the 7 cord for any heavy duty items and 4 cord for smaller things. This is just my 2 cents.

Scary - Thanks for the input / comments. I thought the tandy waxed linen thread looked a little thick on my projects, I should have been using 5 ply to go with the #6 overstitch. I make small dog (<20 lbs) harness, collars and leads so I'll probably go with 4 cord thread from Royalwood as the 7 cord will probably look worst than the 6 cord tandy thread i'm already using.

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I agree with Scary on this. I find royalwoods 7 cord to be a good choice for belts/ holsters/sheaths etc. Tandys 6 cord, for me, seems to look like a bulkier thread.

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well guy, I learned to hand stitch a long time ago, with waxed linen thread. After trying some different synthetic threads, I still used waxed linen. I make holsters and items associated with shooting sports and a #6 overstitch is ideal for most jobs. As to stitching my advice is to take your time, concentrate, and make every stitch EXACTLY the same as the one preceding it. Here's a sample of my hand stitching. OH, I just purchase Waxed Linen Thread from Springfield Leather. Mike

002a-2.jpg

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Katsass I like the fine job you did on your holster...espically the dye are stain finish. Would you mind telling us newbies how you obtained such a fine result.

Thank You...Craig h

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Katsass I like the fine job you did on your holster...espically the dye are stain finish. Would you mind telling us newbies how you obtained such a fine result.

Thank You...Craig h

OK Craig; First, thanks for your compliment re. my work, I appreciate it. I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned leather bonded together on their flesh sides. My patterns are drawn by me individually for each customer --- very seldom will I make a duplicate of anything. I use 'Weldwood Contact Cement' for all of my work. My method requires stitching all edges but I believe that that enhances the finished holster. The method also gives one a lined rig. Apply the cement per the instructions, stick the two together and roll with an old wallpaper roller then forget it overnight. This holster was made for a Colt 1911 Long Slide as a 'transport' holster --- no belt loop. The colors are a combination of Fiebing's Saddle Tan and Fiebing's Dark Brown applied with the cheapest airbrush the Harbor Freight (Their 'quick change' rig) sells. After the dye is applied I wait 24 hrs. before touching the work, then apply a very light shot of neatsfoot oil through the airbrush and wait another 24 hrs. I then do my stitching. When that chore is completed, I wet mold and (since I live in the desert) allow old Ma Nature do the warming and drying. The final step is the application of a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glo' (the floor stuff).and water. It's almost identical to 'Super Sheen' and most all of the Sheen products --- at about 1/10 the cost. I 'mist' on a coat of the stuff, allow to dry for a half hour or so then do it again. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and finish with some Kiwi Neutral shoe polish rubbed in by hand --- no rag, applicator etc. A very light coat is all that you want, then buff with a soft cloth. On my stuff I have a lead time of about two weeks or so, but nobody expects an old man to do anything in a hurry --- besides, I may want to go fishing. Anyhoo, my customers know that they will wait for their stuff --- made to their order and expect that the workmanship is worth the wait. No gripes in over 50 years now. Hope this gives you a hand. My method ain't quick, but it works well for my stuff. Mike

Edited by katsass

NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!!

At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses.

Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.

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Posted

I agree with Scary on this. I find royalwoods 7 cord to be a good choice for belts/ holsters/sheaths etc. Tandys 6 cord, for me, seems to look like a bulkier thread.

I went with Scary's and your suggestion and changed my order from 4 cord to 7 cord. I was real hesistant to go down in the number of cords and your comment about Tandy's 6 cord being bulkier sold me on royalwoods 7 cord. I saw that campbell and bosche offers a 5 cord waxed linen, but they only offer it in white and no colors.

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OK Craig; First, thanks for your compliment re. my work, I appreciate it. I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned leather bonded together on their flesh sides. My patterns are drawn by me individually for each customer --- very seldom will I make a duplicate of anything. I use 'Weldwood Contact Cement' for all of my work. My method requires stitching all edges but I believe that that enhances the finished holster. The method also gives one a lined rig. Apply the cement per the instructions, stick the two together and roll with an old wallpaper roller then forget it overnight. This holster was made for a Colt 1911 Long Slide as a 'transport' holster --- no belt loop. The colors are a combination of Fiebing's Saddle Tan and Fiebing's Dark Brown applied with the cheapest airbrush the Harbor Freight (Their 'quick change' rig) sells. After the dye is applied I wait 24 hrs. before touching the work, then apply a very light shot of neatsfoot oil through the airbrush and wait another 24 hrs. I then do my stitching. When that chore is completed, I wet mold and (since I live in the desert) allow old Ma Nature do the warming and drying. The final step is the application of a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glo' (the floor stuff).and water. It's almost identical to 'Super Sheen' and most all of the Sheen products --- at about 1/10 the cost. I 'mist' on a coat of the stuff, allow to dry for a half hour or so then do it again. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and finish with some Kiwi Neutral shoe polish rubbed in by hand --- no rag, applicator etc. A very light coat is all that you want, then buff with a soft cloth. On my stuff I have a lead time of about two weeks or so, but nobody expects an old man to do anything in a hurry --- besides, I may want to go fishing. Anyhoo, my customers know that they will wait for their stuff --- made to their order and expect that the workmanship is worth the wait. No gripes in over 50 years now. Hope this gives you a hand. My method ain't quick, but it works well for my stuff. Mike

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Posted

Thank you Mike for the lession...I am a retired senior trying to learn leatherwork and would like to learn holster making. In your opioin which book would be best to purchase to lean the art of holster making..I want to spend my dollars in the right way.

Thank you again..Craig h

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Posted

Thank you Mike for the lession...I am a retired senior trying to learn leatherwork and would like to learn holster making. In your opioin which book would be best to purchase to lean the art of holster making..I want to spend my dollars in the right way.

Thank you again..Craig h

Well Craig, my advice to anyone starting to work out how to make holsters is to buy Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters" It's dated in some ways, but will really give you a good start on the procedures and the necessary skills required. Most of the leather supply outfits carry it, and at somewhere around $12 or so, it's well worth the nominal cost ( especially compared to some other books I have) I bought my copy in the early 60's, after playing around with leather for a while prior to that --- and I still have it and use it occasionally. Good luck in your pursuit of working holsters. Mike

NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!!

At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses.

Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.

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Posted

If I can jump into this thread please... I've recently gotten back into leather work after many many years... All of my projects up to this point have involved hand stitching with black waxed thread (from Tandy...) I am currently working on a sheath project which is going to have a natural finish on it, and I have chosen to use tan waxed thread (from Tandy...) for the stitching... Today I stitched the belt loop on it and when I pulled each stitch tight the thread lost it's tan color and turned grey... The leather is unfinished, and my hands are clean... I'm at a loss... Suggestions please???

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