Saddle Stitching

[BuckhornBrand]

Thanks Joel,

I agree with you about Steve, he's been very helpful to me. Glad to hear you're getting along with your class 4 on a wide variety of leathers. It's good to know that a one man/ one machine shop like yours can rely on it to pay the bills.

Thanks again,

Chuck

[stelmackr]

Thanks guys.

JW I haven't talked with anyone about a Ferdco but I may look into them. I see their ads but other than that I don't hear much about them.

I have two FERDCO machines. The FERDCO 1245 I have had for three-years and uses 207 top & 138 on the bobbin. I use it every day and it has never skipped a stitch making leather slip on book covers with it. The other is a FERDCO Pro-2000 that I use for heavy material belts, holsters and the like. I've had it for one-year and uses 346 top & 277 on the bobbin. It did skip a stitch once, but I was forcing the project. For me, I listen to Ron & Cheryl and do exactly what they say. I use bonded polyester thread with one size smaller on the bobbin than the top. I oil after 8 hours use and if the machine sits for any time I oil it. If the stitches start to look different I change the needle. They have links to people selling used machines and every time I've call Ron or Cheryl I feel like they have stopped doing everything and gave all their attention to me. www.ferdco.com

Bob Stelmack

[kseidel]

It should be noted that a hook and awl machine cannot be used for sewing textiles. It is strictly a leather machine. If you are needing to stitch both leather and textiles like webbing or canvas, the straight needle machines are the better choice.

[dirtclod]

I've had a Ferdco Pro 2000 for close to 20 years in that time i had one tension spring break and the little rubber tire on the winder wore out. Sewed all types of things from cattle shades, tarps, trampoline covers, logging chaps, toe straps, big thick tie downs, nylon chokers for crains and leather. If where you live is like around here when people find out you have a machine they will bring you all types of things to sew and a dollar is a dollar. I had a needle awl machine and the needles are quite a bit higher than the needles for the 2000.

[BuckhornBrand]

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the information about the Ferdco machines. I haven't heard much about them in the past, maybe thats because nobody was complaining about them.

Thanks Keith, but I'm only sewing leather.

Chuck

[BuckhornBrand]

Thanks for everyone's input on this. I've ordered a new class 4 machine from Steve. He's helped me through quite a few problems with my current machine and has earned my business.

I did call Campbell and had a great visit with Connie about his machines. They are very reasonably priced considering how long those machines will last, but it was a little more money than I wanted to spend right now.

Thanks for the advice, Chuck

[oltoot]

I see by the dates that I'm a bit of a johnny come lately so my 2 cents is only worth one cent but here it is anyway. I learned on a 16 and when I started looking for a machine I sorta became an unwilling mechanic and trader. After a few years and a lot of stress I bought a Union Lock and a Singer 211 class. It was several years before I got them all figured out, sorta, and have had a very happy relationship for a very long time. A rancher friend has one of the new single needle, long arm machines from Artisan and it serves him well. We come visiting one another with projects every so often and are both happy for the chance to do it. I can't add much or argue with anything already said here. If you want to dabble in machine mechanics and antique restoration, you can wear out your piddler. Don't pass up a Singer 97-10 if find one. I think that they were the great father of the single needle, cylinder arm family. Designed by Singer and used by the military in parachute repair during WWII.