Pull-The-Dot Snap Question

[particle]

I recently posted my first finished attempt at an IWB reinforced mouth holster. Here it is again for reference. I would like to use Pull-the-Dot fasteners, as I think the majority of people expect them. Do you agree? Is it a deal breaker to use line-24 snaps? (that's what they're called, right? I don't really use any snaps much to this point in my holster work)

I'd like to continue using the PDT snaps, but I feel like there is something I'm missing. I'm working with 1 1/2" x 1/4" double layer belt blanks when I form my holsters. How much clearance between the top edge of the belt and the side of the snap do you need to leave? Right now, the top edge of my belt is pretty much touching the bottom edge of the metal snap, and it's very difficult to snap closed. It's very easy with a 1/4" belt, but I think that's because I can angle the bottom of the snap downward more easily as is required with the PDT snaps.

I obviously haven't done enough of these to test, but it seems like a basic math formula would help. For example (and I suck at math)...

If the diameter of the post (P) is 1/2" + the width of the belt is 1 1/2" (BW x 2) + the thickness of the belt is 1/4" (BT) + extra clearance 1/4" ©

P + (BW x 2) + BT + C

1/2" + 3 + 1/4" + 1/4" = 4" center to center

I assume the fold in the strap would actually reduce the 1/4" clearance a tad once the leather was folded. Obviously you'd need to add a little more length = I'm guessing the diameter of the snap cover is about 1/2" (SC) + 1/4" x 2 = 1.5" for an overall strap length of 5.5"...

Any help would be greatly appreciated. At this point, I am going to remove the PDT snaps from this holster and replace with basic line 24 snaps so I can get this out to the customer and move on to other orders. But I'd like to resolve the problem with future orders.

[dickf]

Great looking rig, Eric! Man, I love white thread on gunleather!

I use hard-action Line 24 snaps for the straps of my IWB holsters and have had ZERO problems or issues with them. They are mighty strong and in my opinion, if it takes enough force to draw the gun that you may risk one of these snaps coming undone, you better check your holster retention first. I've had zero complaints in the 3 years I'v ebeen using them,. The snaps on the holster I use for my 1911 are as secure and tight as the day they were set. With that, I do believe that there are appropriate uses for the PTD snaps, and if they weren't so expensive, I'd order a 100 and see. Truth is, I've just never needed them.

[Steven Kelley]

I use PTD snaps almost exclusively and have a distance of 4.5" between the holes, center to center. I then wet form the loop around a 1.5" x 1.4" belt blank, and put a crease at the top edge of the belt. That allows the snap to lay flat and engage a bit easier.

[particle]

Thanks guys for the feedback. Dickf - that's my favorite color combination, though I prefer the dark brown accent instead of black.

Steven - how much clearance does 5.4" center to center leave between the snap and the belt?

[markush]

I've only built two IWB with PTD snaps so FWIW...On the first one I built so the there was about 1/4' from top of belt to bottom of the snap. It worked but like you experienced it was harder then I though it should be to snap/unsnap. The next one I built to have a 3/8" space...works much better and not sloppy on the belt like I was worried it could be. I can't give you a formula as I made the straps longer then needed, molded them around the belt, then drilled the snap holes to get the 3/8" clearance.

Edited January 23, 2012 by markush

[Steven Kelley]

Thanks guys for the feedback. Dickf - that's my favorite color combination, though I prefer the dark brown accent instead of black.

Steven - how much clearance does 5.4" center to center leave between the snap and the belt?

4.5" c-c leaves about 3/16" from the edge of the belt to the edge of the snap, and 1/2" to the center of the snap. I leave 1/2" of strap length past the center of the hole for the stud, and 5/8" of length past the cap. That extra 1/8" makes it a little easier to unsnap.

[steelhawk]

I have used both the PTD snaps and Line 24 snaps from Tandy and one other place. The snaps from the other place were junk. The Tandy ones were far superior. I have a knife case for a Buck Folding Hunter that is quite old. I made it many years ago. The leather is worn out from years of wear, but the snap still works. On a few rare occasions I have bumped my holstered gun on something and heard a snap pop off, but it was a pretty substantial impact. I just re-snapped it and all was well.

Edited January 23, 2012 by steelhawk

[woodandsteel]

Eric, the measurements that work for me (with 6-8oz leather) is 4 1/4 inches center to center on the holes, and then I add 1/2inch on the front end of the strap and 3/8" to the back end of the strap. That gives me just enough room to rock the pull-the-dot snap onto the post, and makes the front end of the snap strap sit 1/8 inch taller than the back to get your thumb behind it. I wet mold the straps around a 1 1/2inch by 1/4inch paint stick, and then around a double layer gunbelt just to be sure. I also rub a little bit of paraffin wax onto the snap posts, which makes them snap and easier at first. I used to put a leather washer under the straps, but now mount them directly against the holster body.

[triage1998]

Quick question about Pull-the-dots and line 24 snaps. How are you installing them? Is there a special tool or press that you use to install them?

[particle]

If you buy a line 24 pack from Tandy, I believe it comes with the tiny anvil and punch. That's all I've been using. Works fine most of the time, but it's a little difficult for precision work that Pull-The-Dot snaps sorta require (if you want the cap oriented correctly and the socket prong pointing the correct way which is the most important). I attached the stud with a t-nut, but if you use a post/eyelet, you can use the previously mentioned anvil/punch from Tandy. Just make sure you use the curved side when installing the cap, and the flat side when installing the post/eyelet.

http://www.dotfasteners.com/pull_the_dot.html

[Dwight]

Triage 1998, . . . there is a store called Hobby Lobby, . . . many are in Ohio. In those I have been to, . . . go to their sewing section where they sell scissors, tapes, and that sort of stuff.

Look for a tool that looks vaguely like a pair of pliers with blue handles, . . . price will be in the $25 range, . . . there should also be a small assortment of snaps that is in the blister pack with it.

Look for a small red circle of plastic on the crimp head, . . . it is for the line 24 size snaps. Don't waste your money on the tool that does all the different sizes, . . . you want the one that only does the 24 size.

It is by far and away the very best tool for setting snaps on holsters, . . . straps, . . . etc. Mine is several years old, . . . will be replacing it in the near future, . . . only paid $10 at Wally world for mine, . . . but it has done a BUNCH of snaps.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Shooter McGavin]

Quick question about Pull-the-dots and line 24 snaps. How are you installing them? Is there a special tool or press that you use to install them?

I tried every tool imaginable. This is what I do now, and it works awesome.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33907

[Shooter McGavin]

My hole-to-hole measurement for the snap straps in 4-3/8". I also wet form around a double layer belt blank

[Reaper]

http://www.coversuperstore.com/Snaps-Grommets-Hardware/