The "finsih" For A Saddle

[Aurelie]

Oh ok

i did not get your meaning right

I can't tell you about resolene , this is a product i can't import in France ( too dangerous to travel they say )

same with wyosheen, antique from fiebings....

I ve heard that resolene was good but i do not know how to best use it .....maybe some "specialist" around will give his imput

but your process sounds rather good to me

1 question though : why 50/50 resolene + water? (does not weaken the power of resolene?)

to waterproof leather on saddle = my only mean is :

- time

-avoid water for a while

- use your arms + Skidmore's leatherproofing beewax =< works some wonders and does not block leather from oiling

but you have to avoid storms during the time you waterproof your leather

for everything aside saddle = tuff kote if i really need the protection (i do not really like it because it kinda "block" the leather for oiling)

i am not helping you i guess - sorry

Aurelie

[Chaed]

LOL, avoiding water for some time is a good one! Tell that to the clouds in the sky!

And because you asked I used resolene 50/50 because I read on here that if you use it pure, you run the danger of it cracking when you bend the leather. That's why some folks use it diluted and simply brush on more coats. You think there could be my problem? As for not shipping it to France... are you sure? I'm from Europe too and know the deal with not finding neatlack, but I found a site that has no problem shipping resolene and co to Europe. Check out www.stecksstore.com. I've been satisfied with them so far, and they're the only one shipping flammable stuff.

As for skidmore's, I never used that. Will it seal antique? Or do you have to use it after you put resolene etc. on?

[Aurelie]

Ok the 50/50 for avoiding cracking is right and logical

i do not know : maybe not enough coats of the mix??

skidmore's is beewax so i do not think it will "seal" your antique unless you put 100 + coats before using your saddle

that's 1 reason i do not put antique on saddles that are going to be "used" (understand outside) = it's nice but a pain in the butt to keep in good shape

i keep it simple (understand no dye, no antique, nothing that possibly can go "splotchy" under a storm) and "sturdy" = the way a tool should be

Regarding "flamable" products =

thanks for the link , i will have a look at it

but knows that : most of companies do not anymore send those product airplane or even by ship because it's flamable. Now it's forbidden.....Yeah new laws!

maybe some compagnies take the "risk" to send it....but the one taking the biggest risk is the buyer => If customs tumble on your package : they will keep it and you even may be asked to pay fees for "trying to import dangerous products" and be in bigger troubles (that's at least the way it goes in France)

I did the maths....and will go for a safer option even if it's not the simplier

i have no money to throw by the windows and no need troubles with customs.....

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Like Jim, I use Tan Coat most of the time. Once in a while I use Balm with Atom Wax if the customer wants it, but; the result is almost the same.

Bob