Union Lockstitch? Yes ? No? Or?

[catskin]

I came across a union lockstitch for sale within driving distance. Can anybody give me some idea what it can or cannot do. Like how thick it will sew, how hard it would be to keep it sewing. And what the resale value might be IF it turned out to be not a machine I get along with well. Also what to look at as far as where it is most likely to be worn before I buy it.

I know some of you have or have had them so would be greatful for your opinions.

[Wizcrafts]

I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines. The current one is up for sale in our used sewing machines section of the Market Place.

There is no other sewing machine like a properly set-up ULS. Therein lies the problem. Very few owners of these machines really understand them well enough to set them up for one size of thread and stitch length, then change over to an entirely different combination. If you are contemplating purchasing a Union Lockstitch machine, make sure that the previous owner will give you plenty of instructions on threading it, timing it, changing needles and awls and changing the stitch length. A threading manual with parts list is very helpful.

There are about 20 oil holes that must be oiled regularly during, or before using the machine. The bobbin winder needs oiling. The machine has a clutch built onto the huge flywheel. The take-up lever system is so powerful it can filigree softer leather. The position of the knots is controllable by moving the take-up lever assembly, as well as by changing the upper and bobbin tensioners. It is possible to set the machine to sew from a very loose stitch, to one that is pulled right into the grain and flesh sides.

Union Lockstitch Specs:

Maximum stitching speed = 800 spm or 15 per second.

Max clearance under the lifted foot = 3/4 inch

Max thickness it sews = 3/4 inch

Feed system = needle feed and jumping foot

Minimum thread size = #138 bonded nylon/polyester or 3 cord left twist glace linen

Maximum thread size - 554 bonded nylon/polyester, or 10 cord linen

Stitch length range = from 12 to 4 to the inch

Bobbins are about 3/4 inch tapering to 3/8 inch inside x 2.5 inches outside diameter and hold at least 300 feet of #277 or 4 cord thread.

Needles have barbed ends and are available in sizes 1 through 7. Awls are available in sizes 1.5 through 8. The smallest and largest sizes of needle and awl are getting hard to find.

The head alone weighs about 250 pounds. The motorized 3" thick table, thick steel frame and pedal assemblies weight another 150 pounds.

My setup:

I typically use a 2 needle and a #2.5 awl, to sew with #277 bonded nylon thread. If the thread is really well bonded, I can use a half size smaller needle and awl. I am able to feather the foot pedal speed control linkage to get about 2 stitches per second. I can single stitch by just feathering the clutch enough to move the machine to the beginning of a stitch then halt. I use hand pressure on the flywheel to move it over the "hump" for exactly one stitch. On straight-aways, I floor it and get 15 stitches per second.

If you do buy the machine, there are certain tools you must have to thread it, time it or adjust the foot lift and hook position. There are three sizes of T-handle wrenches with four sides milled into the inside of the mouth of the wrenches. The two smaller sizes are must-haves. There is a long threading wire with a barbed end. You'll need a fairly thin 5/8" open end wrench to change the timing. The 3 primary shafts are set into position and clearanced with a large flat blade screwdriver, then locked down with a 13/16" socket.

A new ULS is worth about $7,000. A factory rebuilt-to-specs model is worth about $4500. A privately rebuilt machine, like mine, is worth about $3000 to $3500.

If your ULS is not rebuilt and is over 50 years old, or has had a lot of use and abuse, it may need to have a lot of parts replaced. This was what I had to do. I invested about $1,000 in replacement parts and accessories, not to mention more in needles, awls and bobbins. Needles and awls sell for about $3.25 each and are sold in packs of ten. Bobbins are about $20 each, plus or minus.

These are the pertinent facts about the Union Lockstitch machines. They have been produced entirely in the USA, since 1905. Campbell Randall is the current owner of the ULS machines and has parts and accessories for them, as well as linen thread and liquid wax.

More:

You asked how much you could expect to sell it for it you don't want to keep it. That depends on its condition, what extra parts and accessories go with it and what a buyer is willing to pay. A lot of these beat up machines move between unhappy owners for about $1500. They usually need another $1,000 to $1500 put into them to bring them up to snuff (as I found out).

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[Hennessy]

I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines. The current one is up for sale in our used sewing machines section of the Market Place.

There is no other sewing machine like a properly set-up ULS. Therein lies the problem. Very few owners of these machines really understand them well enough to set them up for one size of thread and stitch length, then change over to an entirely different combination. If you are contemplating purchasing a Union Lockstitch machine, make sure that the previous owner will give you plenty of instructions on threading it, timing it, changing needles and awls and changing the stitch length. A threading manual with parts list is very helpful.

There are about 20 oil holes that must be oiled regularly during, or before using the machine. The bobbin winder needs oiling. The machine has a clutch built onto the huge flywheel. The take-up lever system is so powerful it can filigree softer leather. The position of the knots is controllable by moving the take-up lever assembly, as well as by changing the upper and bobbin tensioners. It is possible to set the machine to sew from a very loose stitch, to one that is pulled right into the grain and flesh sides.

Union Lockstitch Specs:

Maximum stitching speed = 800 spm or 15 per second.

Max clearance under the lifted foot = 3/4 inch

Max thickness it sews = 3/4 inch

Feed system = needle feed and jumping foot

Minimum thread size = #138 bonded nylon/polyester or 3 cord left twist glace linen

Maximum thread size - 554 bonded nylon/polyester, or 10 cord linen

Stitch length range = from 12 to 4 to the inch

Bobbins are about 3/4 inch tapering to 3/8 inch inside x 2.5 inches outside diameter and hold at least 300 feet of #277 or 4 cord thread.

Needles have barbed ends and are available in sizes 1 through 7. Awls are available in sizes 1.5 through 8. The smallest and largest sizes of needle and awl are getting hard to find.

The head alone weighs about 250 pounds. The motorized 3" thick table, thick steel frame and pedal assemblies weight another 150 pounds.

My setup:

I typically use a 2 needle and a #2.5 awl, to sew with #277 bonded nylon thread. If the thread is really well bonded, I can use a half size smaller needle and awl. I am able to feather the foot pedal speed control linkage to get about 2 stitches per second. I can single stitch by just feathering the clutch enough to move the machine to the beginning of a stitch then halt. I use hand pressure on the flywheel to move it over the "hump" for exactly one stitch. On straight-aways, I floor it and get 15 stitches per second.

If you do buy the machine, there are certain tools you must have to thread it, time it or adjust the foot lift and hook position. There are three sizes of T-handle wrenches with four sides milled into the inside of the mouth of the wrenches. The two smaller sizes are must-haves. There is a long threading wire with a barbed end. You'll need a fairly thin 5/8" open end wrench to change the timing. The 3 primary shafts are set into position and clearanced with a large flat blade screwdriver, then locked down with a 13/16" socket.

A new ULS is worth about $7,000. A factory rebuilt-to-specs model is worth about $4500. A privately rebuilt machine, like mine, is worth about $3000 to $3500.

If your ULS is not rebuilt and is over 50 years old, or has had a lot of use and abuse, it may need to have a lot of parts replaced. This was what I had to do. I invested about $1,000 in replacement parts and accessories, not to mention more in needles, awls and bobbins. Needles and awls sell for about $3.25 each and are sold in packs of ten. Bobbins are about $20 each, plus or minus.

These are the pertinent facts about the Union Lockstitch machines. They have been produced entirely in the USA, since 1905. Campbell Randall is the current owner of the ULS machines and has parts and accessories for them, as well as linen thread and liquid wax.

More:

You asked how much you could expect to sell it for it you don't want to keep it. That depends on its condition, what extra parts and accessories go with it and what a buyer is willing to pay. A lot of these beat up machines move between unhappy owners for about $1500. They usually need another $1,000 to $1500 put into them to bring them up to snuff (as I found out).

i wished i'd a read something like this back in 79 when i bought mine n struggled n battled at the inch thick work i did. its a horse waitin to be a nasty bronc. u got it wiz,very in depth knowledge thanks for sharing

[Wizcrafts]

i wished i'd a read something like this back in 79 when i bought mine n struggled n battled at the inch thick work i did. its a horse waitin to be a nasty bronc. u got it wiz,very in depth knowledge thanks for sharing

I bought my first Union Lockstitch directly off the floor of a Tandy regional headquarters in Canada. It was sitting idle for several years after the only person who understood the machine had retired. I bought it with virtually no accessories or manual. I couldn't even thread the machine correctly and it refused to sew a stitch.

My lucky day came after I called several old-time leather crafters and one put me on to Freedman Harness, in Toronto. I called and the owner, Sam Freedman (deceased) invited me to his shop, where is graciously photo-copied his Union Lockstitch manual. He was nice enough to also sell me thousands of dollars worth of spare parts, needles, awls, bobbins, feet, throat plates and wrenches, plus a threading wire, from his long-unused, turn of the Century ULS machine. I paid as much for those accessories and spare parts as I paid for my machine.

When I sold that machine in the year 2002, I spent a solid hour demonstrating to the buyer how to thread, time, tension, adjust and change stitch length on the machine. I'm sure that, even with the manual, he would have had to spent at least a day learning those things on his own if I hadn't stepped up to the plate.

Anybody contemplating buying a Union Lockstitch machine for the first time should make sure that they go somewhere and learn how to adjust and maintain their machine. Failure to do so can result in heartbreak and even physical damage to one's self.

A properly set up and adjusted ULS machine can sew everything from Wilson Footballs to commercial gun belts and holsters. They are thread agnostic and have true square drive. One only needs to match the best fitting needle and awl to the needle and awl bars, change thread and maybe twist a tensioner, to sew from #138 thread to #346 thread, into from 6 ounces up to 20 ounces of leather.

If one wishes to sew beyond 3/4 inch, they must alter the top of the pressor foot to clear the looper and thread guide. Or, get a special thin foot made at a machine shop. I use machine shops a lot for my ULS machine.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[catskin]

Thanks A LOT Wiz.

This is very valueable info. This is not a one machine deal it is a case where somebody tried to start a shop and changed his mind due to other work. There is the ULS some hand tools leather, buckles etc.etc.

IF I buy I might be pretty much on my own with learning this machine. We will have to see what happens.

Would there be a place I could get the instuctions? If they are not included. Down load and print or something?

The price will have to right or no deal.

I found your ad in used and printed it for reference now I feel I can look at it with a clue as to what should be there.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks A LOT Wiz.

This is very valueable info. This is not a one machine deal it is a case where somebody tried to start a shop and changed his mind due to other work. There is the ULS some hand tools leather, buckles etc.etc.

IF I buy I might be pretty much on my own with learning this machine. We will have to see what happens.

Would there be a place I could get the instuctions? If they are not included. Down load and print or something?

The price will have to right or no deal.

I found your ad in used and printed it for reference now I feel I can look at it with a clue as to what should be there.

You can purchase an actual printed manual and parts list from Campbell Randall, in Yoakum, Texas. That's where I got my manual. It helps to have the parts list when you start ordering replacement screws and such.

You should ask if there are spare parts, accessories, needles and awls and a threading wire with the machine. If not, prepare for some serious sticker shock.

Here are some prices you need to be aware of before you buy the machine:

• Needles and awls go for about $33 for a pack of 10
• Bobbins are about $20 each
• various presser feet sell for about $105 each and up
• Various throat plates sell for $100 and up
• Roller edge guides are over $100
• Barbour's Linen thread is close to $50 a pound. Bonded polyester is about $20 to $25 a pound.
• They are the maker of liquid Lax Wax, needed to sew with linen thread. It's about $15 a quart +/-
• Replacement screws run from a few dollars, up to almost $10 each.
• Replacement springs cost from $5 to $25 depending on which spring it is.
• The 4 sided internal cut adjusting wrenches range from about $20 to $30 each.

Add shipping and Customs costs, GST, etc to these prices, and conversion of CDN into USD.

Try to run the machine, with or without thread. Make sure it runs smoothly at all speeds. The clutch is on the flywheel. With your foot off the (right) speed pedal, the wheel should not turn easily by hand. A slight toe down should release the brake from the asbestos clutch and allow you to hand-wheel the machine. Under full power, the machine will sound like a piece of farm equipment, like a thrasher or harvester. If possible, oil the machine before running it at full speed, which is 800 stitches per minute.

The presser foot is lifted by the left floor pedal. You may need to push it all the way to toe to the floor to get the foot to lift to clear 3/4 inch of leather.

Make sure that the bobbin winder is included and actually works.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[catskin]

Thanks again Wiz.

Would it hurt to make a speed reducer to slow this machine down.

It will likely be at least a week before I see this machine but thought doing my homework so to speak now would make sense.

Also can anybody tell me if there might be a market for a fur sewing machine. And at what price? There is one that could come with this deal if I bought the lot. I would likely have no use for it.

Edited January 28, 2012 by catskin

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks again Wiz.

Would it hurt to make a speed reducer to slow this machine down.

It will likely be at least a week before I see this machine but thought doing my homework so to speak now would make sense.

Also can anybody tell me if there might be a market for a fur sewing machine. And at what price? There is one that could come with this deal if I bought the lot. I would likely have no use for it.

If you are good with and well equipped with wood working tools, you might be able to mount a speed reducer. But, if the machine is the old style, like mine, the motor is on the top rear of the table, making it virtually impossible to ad a reducer. The new style, form the 1960s on, have the motor under the table, making it much easier to add a reducer, or even a 3/4 HP servo.

Note, if you change to a non-continuous run motor, you'll have to lock the clutch into the flywheel asbestos. Normally, there is a very long heavy steel lever that runs under the table, with a hinge on the right side. A steel rod gets locked through a hole in that lever and goes straight up to a lever on the back of the machine. That lever is connected to the back of the machine and when lowered, pushes a rotating steel cup against a cone shaped clutch on the flywheel.

[jsmith]

It is possible to add a speed rducer to the union lock, Wiz is right on track as to the motor mounting options. I used a 12 inch fly wheel from an air compressor and pillow block bearings to slow mine to a crawl.

It's a great stitcher as long as the Gremlins stay away, You will quit sewing one night and get up the next morning to find a new issue has infected your machine.

I find it to be much like a hay baler,when its workin dont stop in the middle of the feild till you have too.

Jeff

[catskin]

After looking at the pictures again I see it has already been done with pulleys and bearings. Looks like about 3 to 1 reduction but by changeing the bigger pulley it could be slowed down more. I just got pictures of the stitchs it made and they look very good.

Still wondering if there would be any chance of selling the fur machine if I took the whole lot.