Union Lockstitch? Yes ? No? Or?

[catskin]

I came across a union lockstitch for sale within driving distance. Can anybody give me some idea what it can or cannot do. Like how thick it will sew, how hard it would be to keep it sewing. And what the resale value might be IF it turned out to be not a machine I get along with well. Also what to look at as far as where it is most likely to be worn before I buy it.

I know some of you have or have had them so would be greatful for your opinions.

[Wizcrafts]

I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines. The current one is up for sale in our used sewing machines section of the Market Place.

There is no other sewing machine like a properly set-up ULS. Therein lies the problem. Very few owners of these machines really understand them well enough to set them up for one size of thread and stitch length, then change over to an entirely different combination. If you are contemplating purchasing a Union Lockstitch machine, make sure that the previous owner will give you plenty of instructions on threading it, timing it, changing needles and awls and changing the stitch length. A threading manual with parts list is very helpful.

There are about 20 oil holes that must be oiled regularly during, or before using the machine. The bobbin winder needs oiling. The machine has a clutch built onto the huge flywheel. The take-up lever system is so powerful it can filigree softer leather. The position of the knots is controllable by moving the take-up lever assembly, as well as by changing the upper and bobbin tensioners. It is possible to set the machine to sew from a very loose stitch, to one that is pulled right into the grain and flesh sides.

Union Lockstitch Specs:

Maximum stitching speed = 800 spm or 15 per second.

Max clearance under the lifted foot = 3/4 inch

Max thickness it sews = 3/4 inch

Feed system = needle feed and jumping foot

Minimum thread size = #138 bonded nylon/polyester or 3 cord left twist glace linen

Maximum thread size - 554 bonded nylon/polyester, or 10 cord linen

Stitch length range = from 12 to 4 to the inch

Bobbins are about 3/4 inch tapering to 3/8 inch inside x 2.5 inches outside diameter and hold at least 300 feet of #277 or 4 cord thread.

Needles have barbed ends and are available in sizes 1 through 7. Awls are available in sizes 1.5 through 8. The smallest and largest sizes of needle and awl are getting hard to find.

The head alone weighs about 250 pounds. The motorized 3" thick table, thick steel frame and pedal assemblies weight another 150 pounds.

My setup:

I typically use a 2 needle and a #2.5 awl, to sew with #277 bonded nylon thread. If the thread is really well bonded, I can use a half size smaller needle and awl. I am able to feather the foot pedal speed control linkage to get about 2 stitches per second. I can single stitch by just feathering the clutch enough to move the machine to the beginning of a stitch then halt. I use hand pressure on the flywheel to move it over the "hump" for exactly one stitch. On straight-aways, I floor it and get 15 stitches per second.

If you do buy the machine, there are certain tools you must have to thread it, time it or adjust the foot lift and hook position. There are three sizes of T-handle wrenches with four sides milled into the inside of the mouth of the wrenches. The two smaller sizes are must-haves. There is a long threading wire with a barbed end. You'll need a fairly thin 5/8" open end wrench to change the timing. The 3 primary shafts are set into position and clearanced with a large flat blade screwdriver, then locked down with a 13/16" socket.

A new ULS is worth about $7,000. A factory rebuilt-to-specs model is worth about $4500. A privately rebuilt machine, like mine, is worth about $3000 to $3500.

If your ULS is not rebuilt and is over 50 years old, or has had a lot of use and abuse, it may need to have a lot of parts replaced. This was what I had to do. I invested about $1,000 in replacement parts and accessories, not to mention more in needles, awls and bobbins. Needles and awls sell for about $3.25 each and are sold in packs of ten. Bobbins are about $20 each, plus or minus.

These are the pertinent facts about the Union Lockstitch machines. They have been produced entirely in the USA, since 1905. Campbell Randall is the current owner of the ULS machines and has parts and accessories for them, as well as linen thread and liquid wax.

More:

You asked how much you could expect to sell it for it you don't want to keep it. That depends on its condition, what extra parts and accessories go with it and what a buyer is willing to pay. A lot of these beat up machines move between unhappy owners for about $1500. They usually need another $1,000 to $1500 put into them to bring them up to snuff (as I found out).

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[Hennessy]

I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines. The current one is up for sale in our used sewing machines section of the Market Place.

There is no other sewing machine like a properly set-up ULS. Therein lies the problem. Very few owners of these machines really understand them well enough to set them up for one size of thread and stitch length, then change over to an entirely different combination. If you are contemplating purchasing a Union Lockstitch machine, make sure that the previous owner will give you plenty of instructions on threading it, timing it, changing needles and awls and changing the stitch length. A threading manual with parts list is very helpful.

There are about 20 oil holes that must be oiled regularly during, or before using the machine. The bobbin winder needs oiling. The machine has a clutch built onto the huge flywheel. The take-up lever system is so powerful it can filigree softer leather. The position of the knots is controllable by moving the take-up lever assembly, as well as by changing the upper and bobbin tensioners. It is possible to set the machine to sew from a very loose stitch, to one that is pulled right into the grain and flesh sides.

Union Lockstitch Specs:

Maximum stitching speed = 800 spm or 15 per second.

Max clearance under the lifted foot = 3/4 inch

Max thickness it sews = 3/4 inch

Feed system = needle feed and jumping foot

Minimum thread size = #138 bonded nylon/polyester or 3 cord left twist glace linen

Maximum thread size - 554 bonded nylon/polyester, or 10 cord linen

Stitch length range = from 12 to 4 to the inch

Bobbins are about 3/4 inch tapering to 3/8 inch inside x 2.5 inches outside diameter and hold at least 300 feet of #277 or 4 cord thread.

Needles have barbed ends and are available in sizes 1 through 7. Awls are available in sizes 1.5 through 8. The smallest and largest sizes of needle and awl are getting hard to find.

The head alone weighs about 250 pounds. The motorized 3" thick table, thick steel frame and pedal assemblies weight another 150 pounds.

My setup:

I typically use a 2 needle and a #2.5 awl, to sew with #277 bonded nylon thread. If the thread is really well bonded, I can use a half size smaller needle and awl. I am able to feather the foot pedal speed control linkage to get about 2 stitches per second. I can single stitch by just feathering the clutch enough to move the machine to the beginning of a stitch then halt. I use hand pressure on the flywheel to move it over the "hump" for exactly one stitch. On straight-aways, I floor it and get 15 stitches per second.

If you do buy the machine, there are certain tools you must have to thread it, time it or adjust the foot lift and hook position. There are three sizes of T-handle wrenches with four sides milled into the inside of the mouth of the wrenches. The two smaller sizes are must-haves. There is a long threading wire with a barbed end. You'll need a fairly thin 5/8" open end wrench to change the timing. The 3 primary shafts are set into position and clearanced with a large flat blade screwdriver, then locked down with a 13/16" socket.

A new ULS is worth about $7,000. A factory rebuilt-to-specs model is worth about $4500. A privately rebuilt machine, like mine, is worth about $3000 to $3500.

If your ULS is not rebuilt and is over 50 years old, or has had a lot of use and abuse, it may need to have a lot of parts replaced. This was what I had to do. I invested about $1,000 in replacement parts and accessories, not to mention more in needles, awls and bobbins. Needles and awls sell for about $3.25 each and are sold in packs of ten. Bobbins are about $20 each, plus or minus.

These are the pertinent facts about the Union Lockstitch machines. They have been produced entirely in the USA, since 1905. Campbell Randall is the current owner of the ULS machines and has parts and accessories for them, as well as linen thread and liquid wax.

More:

You asked how much you could expect to sell it for it you don't want to keep it. That depends on its condition, what extra parts and accessories go with it and what a buyer is willing to pay. A lot of these beat up machines move between unhappy owners for about $1500. They usually need another $1,000 to $1500 put into them to bring them up to snuff (as I found out).

i wished i'd a read something like this back in 79 when i bought mine n struggled n battled at the inch thick work i did. its a horse waitin to be a nasty bronc. u got it wiz,very in depth knowledge thanks for sharing

[Wizcrafts]

i wished i'd a read something like this back in 79 when i bought mine n struggled n battled at the inch thick work i did. its a horse waitin to be a nasty bronc. u got it wiz,very in depth knowledge thanks for sharing

I bought my first Union Lockstitch directly off the floor of a Tandy regional headquarters in Canada. It was sitting idle for several years after the only person who understood the machine had retired. I bought it with virtually no accessories or manual. I couldn't even thread the machine correctly and it refused to sew a stitch.

My lucky day came after I called several old-time leather crafters and one put me on to Freedman Harness, in Toronto. I called and the owner, Sam Freedman (deceased) invited me to his shop, where is graciously photo-copied his Union Lockstitch manual. He was nice enough to also sell me thousands of dollars worth of spare parts, needles, awls, bobbins, feet, throat plates and wrenches, plus a threading wire, from his long-unused, turn of the Century ULS machine. I paid as much for those accessories and spare parts as I paid for my machine.

When I sold that machine in the year 2002, I spent a solid hour demonstrating to the buyer how to thread, time, tension, adjust and change stitch length on the machine. I'm sure that, even with the manual, he would have had to spent at least a day learning those things on his own if I hadn't stepped up to the plate.

Anybody contemplating buying a Union Lockstitch machine for the first time should make sure that they go somewhere and learn how to adjust and maintain their machine. Failure to do so can result in heartbreak and even physical damage to one's self.

A properly set up and adjusted ULS machine can sew everything from Wilson Footballs to commercial gun belts and holsters. They are thread agnostic and have true square drive. One only needs to match the best fitting needle and awl to the needle and awl bars, change thread and maybe twist a tensioner, to sew from #138 thread to #346 thread, into from 6 ounces up to 20 ounces of leather.

If one wishes to sew beyond 3/4 inch, they must alter the top of the pressor foot to clear the looper and thread guide. Or, get a special thin foot made at a machine shop. I use machine shops a lot for my ULS machine.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[catskin]

Thanks A LOT Wiz.

This is very valueable info. This is not a one machine deal it is a case where somebody tried to start a shop and changed his mind due to other work. There is the ULS some hand tools leather, buckles etc.etc.

IF I buy I might be pretty much on my own with learning this machine. We will have to see what happens.

Would there be a place I could get the instuctions? If they are not included. Down load and print or something?

The price will have to right or no deal.

I found your ad in used and printed it for reference now I feel I can look at it with a clue as to what should be there.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks A LOT Wiz.

This is very valueable info. This is not a one machine deal it is a case where somebody tried to start a shop and changed his mind due to other work. There is the ULS some hand tools leather, buckles etc.etc.

IF I buy I might be pretty much on my own with learning this machine. We will have to see what happens.

Would there be a place I could get the instuctions? If they are not included. Down load and print or something?

The price will have to right or no deal.

I found your ad in used and printed it for reference now I feel I can look at it with a clue as to what should be there.

You can purchase an actual printed manual and parts list from Campbell Randall, in Yoakum, Texas. That's where I got my manual. It helps to have the parts list when you start ordering replacement screws and such.

You should ask if there are spare parts, accessories, needles and awls and a threading wire with the machine. If not, prepare for some serious sticker shock.

Here are some prices you need to be aware of before you buy the machine:

• Needles and awls go for about $33 for a pack of 10
• Bobbins are about $20 each
• various presser feet sell for about $105 each and up
• Various throat plates sell for $100 and up
• Roller edge guides are over $100
• Barbour's Linen thread is close to $50 a pound. Bonded polyester is about $20 to $25 a pound.
• They are the maker of liquid Lax Wax, needed to sew with linen thread. It's about $15 a quart +/-
• Replacement screws run from a few dollars, up to almost $10 each.
• Replacement springs cost from $5 to $25 depending on which spring it is.
• The 4 sided internal cut adjusting wrenches range from about $20 to $30 each.

Add shipping and Customs costs, GST, etc to these prices, and conversion of CDN into USD.

Try to run the machine, with or without thread. Make sure it runs smoothly at all speeds. The clutch is on the flywheel. With your foot off the (right) speed pedal, the wheel should not turn easily by hand. A slight toe down should release the brake from the asbestos clutch and allow you to hand-wheel the machine. Under full power, the machine will sound like a piece of farm equipment, like a thrasher or harvester. If possible, oil the machine before running it at full speed, which is 800 stitches per minute.

The presser foot is lifted by the left floor pedal. You may need to push it all the way to toe to the floor to get the foot to lift to clear 3/4 inch of leather.

Make sure that the bobbin winder is included and actually works.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[catskin]

Thanks again Wiz.

Would it hurt to make a speed reducer to slow this machine down.

It will likely be at least a week before I see this machine but thought doing my homework so to speak now would make sense.

Also can anybody tell me if there might be a market for a fur sewing machine. And at what price? There is one that could come with this deal if I bought the lot. I would likely have no use for it.

Edited January 28, 2012 by catskin

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks again Wiz.

Would it hurt to make a speed reducer to slow this machine down.

It will likely be at least a week before I see this machine but thought doing my homework so to speak now would make sense.

Also can anybody tell me if there might be a market for a fur sewing machine. And at what price? There is one that could come with this deal if I bought the lot. I would likely have no use for it.

If you are good with and well equipped with wood working tools, you might be able to mount a speed reducer. But, if the machine is the old style, like mine, the motor is on the top rear of the table, making it virtually impossible to ad a reducer. The new style, form the 1960s on, have the motor under the table, making it much easier to add a reducer, or even a 3/4 HP servo.

Note, if you change to a non-continuous run motor, you'll have to lock the clutch into the flywheel asbestos. Normally, there is a very long heavy steel lever that runs under the table, with a hinge on the right side. A steel rod gets locked through a hole in that lever and goes straight up to a lever on the back of the machine. That lever is connected to the back of the machine and when lowered, pushes a rotating steel cup against a cone shaped clutch on the flywheel.

[jsmith]

It is possible to add a speed rducer to the union lock, Wiz is right on track as to the motor mounting options. I used a 12 inch fly wheel from an air compressor and pillow block bearings to slow mine to a crawl.

It's a great stitcher as long as the Gremlins stay away, You will quit sewing one night and get up the next morning to find a new issue has infected your machine.

I find it to be much like a hay baler,when its workin dont stop in the middle of the feild till you have too.

Jeff

[catskin]

After looking at the pictures again I see it has already been done with pulleys and bearings. Looks like about 3 to 1 reduction but by changeing the bigger pulley it could be slowed down more. I just got pictures of the stitchs it made and they look very good.

Still wondering if there would be any chance of selling the fur machine if I took the whole lot.

[Wizcrafts]

After looking at the pictures again I see it has already been done with pulleys and bearings. Looks like about 3 to 1 reduction but by changeing the bigger pulley it could be slowed down more. I just got pictures of the stitchs it made and they look very good.

Still wondering if there would be any chance of selling the fur machine if I took the whole lot.

Only furriers, advanced tailors and dry cleaners use fur machines. If you know of any such shops in your area, take the machine head to them and see if any of them are willing to take it off your hands. Then deliver the motor and table. You'll be lucky to get a couple hundred bucks if it is in really good condition.

I admit that there were times when I wish I had one for repairing seams that come apart on customers' fur coats. But, a few minutes of whip stitching by hand, with a curved needle, gets the job done just as good. The only hassle is opening up the lining, then whip or top stitching it closed.

It seems that you are going to buy that ULS machine. My advice to you, as a newbie to them, is leave it set up exactly as is and use the same thread they were using. Don't try experimenting with the stitch length right away. Learn to sew with it and thread it first. Learn to wind the bobbins, adjust tensions and to change the needle and awl and align them properly. Memorize the oiling regime.

Once you are confident in your ability to operate the machine, then change the stitch length setting slightly. See if it still sews without missing stitches or missing the awl holes. If so, change it all the way down, to the maximum length. Hand wheel the machine until the needle is just under the leather. If the machine is adjusted tightly and optimized, the needle should come up through the hole. If not, it will miss the awl hole and try to push the leather up. If you don't stop it immediately, the needle will bend and become useless.

Part of the hassles you will encounter may be repositioning the needle mechanism when you change stitch length. There are adjustments for forward/backward and for left/right and they are made in different places. You will need the 4 sided T-wrenches and a large flat blade screwdriver and an open end or socket wrench to make these adjustments. You may also have to change the hook timing by adjusting the timing gear under the machine when you change stitch length. Your best hope is that somebody has already optimized the settings before you get the machine.

[catskin]

Well Wiz you seem more optimistic that I will buy that ULS then I feel. But you are giving me VERY valuable advice and I am greatfull. I think it will likely come down to how the other stuff is priced. I think it was most all bought at Tandy which means he likely paid more, possibly a lot more then I can get it from other suppliers.

I do expect to see the ULS if for no other reason then that I've never seem one before. Its almost worth 3 hours drive each way just to see it. Thanks for the advice on the fur machine.

[Wizcrafts]

I do expect to see the ULS if for no other reason then that I've never seem one before. Its almost worth 3 hours drive each way just to see it.

[TwinOaks]

Campbell Randall has a two part video series on Youtube showing how to set up the ULS. I'm sure it's not as good as having someone go over it in person, but it's better than just the manual.

[catskin]

Thanks Wiz for the life size pictures it helps me know what to look for.

Twin Oaks,

Thanks for the heads up on the vid. BUT with my dialup internet it might take me a week to down load it.

If it comes to that maybe I can get somebody with highspeed to put it on a CD.

[catskin]

One of the people on here mentioned sewing 1 inch stuff on his ULS. So my question is with the right customized parts how thick can they been made to sew? An inch, 1 1/4 or ?

Am I nuttyer than a tree full of squirrels to even think of buying a ULS since I already have a CB 4500?

[Wizcrafts]

One of the people on here mentioned sewing 1 inch stuff on his ULS. So my question is with the right customized parts how thick can they been made to sew? An inch, 1 1/4 or ?

Am I nuttyer than a tree full of squirrels to even think of buying a ULS since I already have a CB 4500?

The standard ULS machine can only sew 3/4 inch. In order to exceed that you would need to modify the presser foot, looper arm, thread guide and possibly change to a longer needle with the same mounting shank diameter (or drill out the needle clamping hole), and maybe even change to a longer awl. I have never been able to exceed 3/4 inch on either of my two ULS machines.

Perhaps the person who modified his machine will reveal his secrets?

[Wizcrafts]

I managed to coax my Union Lockstitch into sewing 6 layers of 9 ounce veg (just under 7/8"). That is the maximum it will handle without modifying the foot, looper and thread guide, all of which made contact with each other when I tried to add one more piece of 8 ounce veg.

[catskin]

Thanks Wiz

If I read this right this is with the STANDARD parts. Or is this test done with your customized parts? Does it look to you like the awl and needle could handle another 1/8 or 3/16 inch if a person was able to customize the other parts to clear and still work?

I managed to coax my Union Lockstitch into sewing 6 layers of 9 ounce veg (just under 7/8"). That is the maximum it will handle without modifying the foot, looper and thread guide, all of which made contact with each other when I tried to add one more piece of 8 ounce veg.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks Wiz

If I read this right this is with the STANDARD parts. Or is this test done with your customized parts? Does it look to you like the awl and needle could handle another 1/8 or 3/16 inch if a person was able to customize the other parts to clear and still work?

I had to switch to a modified presser foot to sew over 3/4 inch. In order to sew 7/8 inch I would have to perform Voodoo on the looper and thread guide, and grind away more steel on the right side and top of the foot. Since I am happy with being able to easily sew 3/4 inch, this is not anything I look forward to doing.

[catskin]

I surely would not want you to try to modify your machine just to see if it could be done. What I was wondering is if you thought the awl and needle would be long enough for that thick of leather in the event someone like me was to try making a foot a looper and guide that would let that much leather pass under and still make the stitch. For example would the barb on the needle clear the leather so as to allow it to hook the thread.

I had to switch to a modified presser foot to sew over 3/4 inch. In order to sew 7/8 inch I would have to perform Voodoo on the looper and thread guide, and grind away more steel on the right side and top of the foot. Since I am happy with being able to easily sew 3/4 inch, this is not anything I look forward to doing.

[Wizcrafts]

I surely would not want you to try to modify your machine just to see if it could be done. What I was wondering is if you thought the awl and needle would be long enough for that thick of leather in the event someone like me was to try making a foot a looper and guide that would let that much leather pass under and still make the stitch. For example would the barb on the needle clear the leather so as to allow it to hook the thread.

Why don't you pick up a Union Lockstitch and see if you can get it to sew 1 inch? My ULS is for sale! The needle and awl will probably be long enough, or almost there. The biggest problems are the top and right side of the foot, the looper (which has to revolves around the barb in the needle) and the thread guide and the thread slack arm (I forgot to mention that part). My guess it that once you have modded a ULS to sew 1 inch, it will no longer sew 1/4 inch as well as it did before.

You may also have to replace the top pressure spring with a motorcycle grade coil spring, to exert enough pressure to hold down 1 inch of leather. Further, the take-up arm may need to be altered to allow it to pull the knots up into such thick leather.

There will be no wiggle room allowed in the feed mechanism. You will need to tighten all moving parts affecting the needle bar and stitch length arms. The position of the shuttle ring gear will be critical to eliminate slack. The heat generated on the awl will be stupendous. It may stick inside the leather unless you spray it with silicon as you stitch.

It will be an interesting project Catskin. Let me know how it works for you.

For anybody following this topic and wondering if there already is a machine capable of sewing an inch out of the box, there is. The Campbell High Lift sews 1 1/8 inch.

Edited February 4, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[catskin]

The problem I have with the machines I have is getting the last few stitches near rings where the leather is doubled back.

The traces I sew are 2 ply that amounts to about 1/2 inch but when I turn the ends back so there is 2 ply through the rings after skiving a slope I can still end up with near an inch for the last few stitchs. This is where I wondered if the ULS could be made to do that thick for a short distance. Maybe I am thinking something that can't be done. I would also slow the machine down to a crawl to make control easier and near eliminate heat buildup.

[Wizcrafts]

The problem I have with the machines I have is getting the last few stitches near rings where the leather is doubled back.

The traces I sew are 2 ply that amounts to about 1/2 inch but when I turn the ends back so there is 2 ply through the rings after skiving a slope I can still end up with near an inch for the last few stitchs. This is where I wondered if the ULS could be made to do that thick for a short distance. Maybe I am thinking something that can't be done. I would also slow the machine down to a crawl to make control easier and near eliminate heat buildup.

I suspect that Campbell-Randall Company could give you a better answer about modifying a Union Lockstitch for higher lift. They may even offer to modify one and sell it to you. But, for only a few thousand more you can buy a Campbell High Lift.

It would cost me about $200 for extra parts to experiment with this on my own machine. I can't afford that right now.

[Wizcrafts]

Well, out of curiosity I ground down the right toe on my Union Lockstitch machine, to a height af about 1/8 inch. I also extended the straight edge on the right side of the presser foot body. This gave more room for the thread holder arm to move at extended heights. I also had to reshape that arm to not only clear the right side and top of the foot, but also the looper/thread guide.

After all that dinking around the machine still only wants to sew 7/8 inch. The lift on the presser foot can be varied somewhat, with lower lift making it more likely to sew thicker leather. But, the stitch length is reduced when the foot lifts later and comes down sooner. I try to keep the lift at about 1/8 inch, at all thicknesses. I can compensate for the shortened stitches by lowering the stitch length regulator bar.

Geometry came into play at 7/8 inch and the thread wanted to miss the pickup arm's slot, due to the severe change of angle the thread has (to the left) at such altitudes. The solution is to make a new pickup arm with special shaping that will grab the thread at great thicknesses, yet clear the right side of the presser foot body and also clear the bottom of the looper/guide tube.

My advice after all this fussing around is to buy a Campbell High Lift to sew 1 inch or above. The machine is already designed to do so and won't need to be modified.

Edited February 4, 2012 by Wizcrafts