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Posted

After looking at the pictures again I see it has already been done with pulleys and bearings. Looks like about 3 to 1 reduction but by changeing the bigger pulley it could be slowed down more. I just got pictures of the stitchs it made and they look very good.

Still wondering if there would be any chance of selling the fur machine if I took the whole lot.

Only furriers, advanced tailors and dry cleaners use fur machines. If you know of any such shops in your area, take the machine head to them and see if any of them are willing to take it off your hands. Then deliver the motor and table. You'll be lucky to get a couple hundred bucks if it is in really good condition.

I admit that there were times when I wish I had one for repairing seams that come apart on customers' fur coats. But, a few minutes of whip stitching by hand, with a curved needle, gets the job done just as good. The only hassle is opening up the lining, then whip or top stitching it closed.

It seems that you are going to buy that ULS machine. My advice to you, as a newbie to them, is leave it set up exactly as is and use the same thread they were using. Don't try experimenting with the stitch length right away. Learn to sew with it and thread it first. Learn to wind the bobbins, adjust tensions and to change the needle and awl and align them properly. Memorize the oiling regime.

Once you are confident in your ability to operate the machine, then change the stitch length setting slightly. See if it still sews without missing stitches or missing the awl holes. If so, change it all the way down, to the maximum length. Hand wheel the machine until the needle is just under the leather. If the machine is adjusted tightly and optimized, the needle should come up through the hole. If not, it will miss the awl hole and try to push the leather up. If you don't stop it immediately, the needle will bend and become useless.

Part of the hassles you will encounter may be repositioning the needle mechanism when you change stitch length. There are adjustments for forward/backward and for left/right and they are made in different places. You will need the 4 sided T-wrenches and a large flat blade screwdriver and an open end or socket wrench to make these adjustments. You may also have to change the hook timing by adjusting the timing gear under the machine when you change stitch length. Your best hope is that somebody has already optimized the settings before you get the machine.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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  • Members
Posted

Well Wiz you seem more optimistic that I will buy that ULS then I feel. But you are giving me VERY valuable advice and I am greatfull. I think it will likely come down to how the other stuff is priced. I think it was most all bought at Tandy which means he likely paid more, possibly a lot more then I can get it from other suppliers.

I do expect to see the ULS if for no other reason then that I've never seem one before. Its almost worth 3 hours drive each way just to see it. Thanks for the advice on the fur machine.

  • Moderator
Posted

I do expect to see the ULS if for no other reason then that I've never seem one before. Its almost worth 3 hours drive each way just to see it.

post-11118-079637700 1327900854_thumb.jp post-11118-046732200 1327901016_thumb.jp

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Campbell Randall has a two part video series on Youtube showing how to set up the ULS. I'm sure it's not as good as having someone go over it in person, but it's better than just the manual.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks Wiz for the life size pictures it helps me know what to look for.

Twin Oaks,

Thanks for the heads up on the vid. BUT with my dialup internet it might take me a week to down load it.

If it comes to that maybe I can get somebody with highspeed to put it on a CD.

  • Members
Posted

One of the people on here mentioned sewing 1 inch stuff on his ULS. So my question is with the right customized parts how thick can they been made to sew? An inch, 1 1/4 or ?

Am I nuttyer than a tree full of squirrels to even think of buying a ULS since I already have a CB 4500?

  • Moderator
Posted

One of the people on here mentioned sewing 1 inch stuff on his ULS. So my question is with the right customized parts how thick can they been made to sew? An inch, 1 1/4 or ?

Am I nuttyer than a tree full of squirrels to even think of buying a ULS since I already have a CB 4500?

The standard ULS machine can only sew 3/4 inch. In order to exceed that you would need to modify the presser foot, looper arm, thread guide and possibly change to a longer needle with the same mounting shank diameter (or drill out the needle clamping hole), and maybe even change to a longer awl. I have never been able to exceed 3/4 inch on either of my two ULS machines.

Perhaps the person who modified his machine will reveal his secrets?

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Moderator
Posted

I managed to coax my Union Lockstitch into sewing 6 layers of 9 ounce veg (just under 7/8"). That is the maximum it will handle without modifying the foot, looper and thread guide, all of which made contact with each other when I tried to add one more piece of 8 ounce veg.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks Wiz

If I read this right this is with the STANDARD parts. Or is this test done with your customized parts? Does it look to you like the awl and needle could handle another 1/8 or 3/16 inch if a person was able to customize the other parts to clear and still work?

I managed to coax my Union Lockstitch into sewing 6 layers of 9 ounce veg (just under 7/8"). That is the maximum it will handle without modifying the foot, looper and thread guide, all of which made contact with each other when I tried to add one more piece of 8 ounce veg.

  • Moderator
Posted

Thanks Wiz

If I read this right this is with the STANDARD parts. Or is this test done with your customized parts? Does it look to you like the awl and needle could handle another 1/8 or 3/16 inch if a person was able to customize the other parts to clear and still work?

I had to switch to a modified presser foot to sew over 3/4 inch. In order to sew 7/8 inch I would have to perform Voodoo on the looper and thread guide, and grind away more steel on the right side and top of the foot. Since I am happy with being able to easily sew 3/4 inch, this is not anything I look forward to doing.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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