Art Report post Posted February 6, 2012 Anything I should know before I try this stuff out? Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 6, 2012 Best of my knowledge, it's a coating over nylon, so treat as nylon. I'd say burn the holes rather than cut them, and use a round point needle for sewing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spooky Report post Posted February 6, 2012 Ignorant question... what is it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wvcraftsman Report post Posted February 7, 2012 I've never tried it, but been wanting to. It might be worth a shot to call Weaver's and see if they have any suggestions or tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsmith Report post Posted February 7, 2012 I've used brahma web quite a bit with no issues at all. It cuts ,sews and rivets no problem. I've even sewn it with my union lock with fine results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 7, 2012 So you work it like leather, you punch holes instead of burning them like you do on webbing? How about skiving for a buckle, will it run through a bell skiver? The plastic seals and stabilizes the webbing so you don't need to melt it where you cut or punch it? Art I've used brahma web quite a bit with no issues at all. It cuts ,sews and rivets no problem. I've even sewn it with my union lock with fine results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsmith Report post Posted February 7, 2012 Art, I have tapered the ends a bit but not really skived them. I 've also tried cutting and punching with and without melting can't see much diff. Most of my use has been tie downs for ropers and quarter binds on saddle bronc saddles. I did make my self a set of bed roll straps this fall and like the materail for them a lot. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 7, 2012 Thanks Jeff, Art Art, I have tapered the ends a bit but not really skived them. I 've also tried cutting and punching with and without melting can't see much diff. Most of my use has been tie downs for ropers and quarter binds on saddle bronc saddles. I did make my self a set of bed roll straps this fall and like the materail for them a lot. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awharness Report post Posted February 7, 2012 I like the biothane better then the bramha web, and its US made. I treat it like leather, but they say it sews up better with round point needles, I usually kiss the end of the strap with a lighter to take off the stray hairs. Skiving its a little differnt, but I like to put a third piece(little wedge) at folds to give it a neater look and easier use of the buckle. I typically use the Super heavy, Beta -Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mcn Report post Posted February 8, 2012 Had the same question. I just ordered a sample of Brahma Web from Weavers. Looks like the biothane is way more expensive. I have customer who wants an Australian style bridle and I had thought the Brahma might be the same. Is there a big difference for something like that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zoej Report post Posted February 8, 2012 In my opinion Biothane is the best quality of this range of products, and will last many years without cracking or delaminating; i make tack for endurance horses and I will only use Biothane. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awharness Report post Posted February 8, 2012 Its hard to explain the differnce, it just feels "less cheap" if that makes sense... the biothane has a better hand, a little bit less plasticy. Don't get me wrong they both work up nice, but i will always go for the Biothane over the bramha web if I have a choice. I don't use a ton of it, so it doesn't make a huge difference with the price. -Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wvcraftsman Report post Posted February 9, 2012 I've kept an eye on this thread, because I have similiar questions as Art. Is there other information available? Needle size? Style? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mcn Report post Posted February 18, 2012 Just got my order from Weavers today. I had asked for a sample of Brahma Webb, maybe a foot long or something like that. They sent a 2 inch piece in a zip lock, in a padded envelope inside the box with the rest of my order. Kinda hard to test sew that or do anything with it. Think I will stick to working with leather. Supposed to be -15 tonight , I will put that piece outside and see what it does. The lady who had wanted the Australian head stall in synthetic might have to change her mind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carmel Report post Posted May 30, 2012 Biothane is marvelous for trail riding, eventing and CDE, where the equipment is constantly exposed to lots of water and mud, daily. You can throw it in a bucket of water, take it out and hand it to dry. The Biothane, produced by Bioplastics, in Ohio, comes in a multitude of coverings, from spongy foam, to silicone grippy reins. It is the preferred material for endurance riders and CDE drivers and becoming very popular for everyday trail riders. Bioplastics constantly has auctions on Ebay, to get the material at a reduced price. Try getting some there and work with it. It definitely is hard on the hands if you are repairing or sewing by hand. The spongy type coating lets the stitches sink in and are hidden, like in our leather. I work with both, but more and more, everyday riders and drivers want the biothane. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scotthanna Report post Posted January 29, 2013 Hello all, We are the manufacturers of Biothane. As Carmel mentioned, right here in Ohio. I'd be glad to help with any questions. Scott Hanna 440-327-0485 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
