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Posted

Well you have a few options here. I am a machinist / tool maker, so I have a little experience with this. First off wood won't mess up a metal late, so a shop shouldn't worry about that. My concern is the wall thickness of the finished piece, and warpage, cracking, or ovaling. Can a smaller , say .500" diameter shaft be installed, and just use a rolling pin? I would think that even a series of 1.00" rings would work, and have a away to true them up on the machine from time to time.

This can be done on a drill press the same way a gun stock can be drilled. Put a point in the drill press table. and align it with your drill point. Mark the center of your part, and place it on the point. Then drill from the top. This can be done from both directions with a large enough point diameter to fill the hole. Of course you will also have to have a way to clamp the part securely so that it does not rotate. Once drilled, it could be turned between centers to the correct diameter. A drill press can be pressed into service as a wood late with a little work.

On a lathe it can be done by holding it in the chuck, if the lathe has a large enough hole in the spindle to handle the diameter. Otherwise a steady rest will need to be used. A 6" long piece would be able to fit in most decent sized chucks without a steady. The chuck, and steady rest , will leave marks on the outside that will need to be removed after boring to size with a boring bar - which will be more accurate than a drill. A 4 jaw chuck would be able to handle a square piece in shorter sections, or a long piece with a cat's paw installed to allow the steady rest to be used.

A suggestion would be to bore it a little oversize , gluing it onto the shaft, then doing the final truing up either on the machine itself, or putting the assembly on a lathe to do this operation. By gluing it up, it may stabilize the wood, and keep it from the above stated maladies.

You laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at you because you are all the same.

Posted

Another option is to cut the blank in half, router out both halves then glue the two halves back together and then turn it.

Posted

Tree Reaper's router idea is probably the best and easiest to do. Once you have your burnisher mounted on your shoe finishing bench, you can true up any eccentricity and cut your grooves. No lathe needed. Make sure you use a good quality glue so it doesn't blow apart when it is spinning.

CTG

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