Members Daemonworks Posted February 14, 2012 Members Report Posted February 14, 2012 Hello all. I've got a piece that's been stamped, died and sealed with supersheen, but I'm finding the stamp isn't as visible as I would like it to be. I'm wondering about options to make it stand out more - perhaps something like a wash to darken the recessed areas, dry brushing to hilight the raised parts, and/or applying a metalic finish of some sort. I'm just not really sure what will work over top of supersheen - I don't want to risk colour transfer because I chose the wrong method. Quote
Members HellfireJack Posted February 14, 2012 Members Report Posted February 14, 2012 What color is it now? Antiquing would probably be your best bet if it's light colored. Quote
electrathon Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 Antiquing is made to do what you are trying to make happen. If your impressions are too shallow though it will have a hard time staying in the recesses. Aaron Quote
Members Daemonworks Posted February 16, 2012 Author Members Report Posted February 16, 2012 It's died with Crimson Eco-Flow, and then Supersheen to finish as I mentioned. So antiquing will work on top of super sheen? I knew it was meant for similar things, but the examples I found weren't starting from dyed&finished leather. I'll have to head out to the Tandy and get my hands on some. The mark stamp isn't very deep at all... I think I may need to purchase a maul or something... I can do normal tooling just fine with the rawhide mallet, but stamps and strap punches never seem to work well, and that's the only thing I can think to try. Thanks. Quote
Members Sylvia Posted February 23, 2012 Members Report Posted February 23, 2012 It's died with Crimson Eco-Flow, and then Supersheen to finish as I mentioned. So antiquing will work on top of super sheen? I knew it was meant for similar things, but the examples I found weren't starting from dyed&finished leather. I'll have to head out to the Tandy and get my hands on some. The mark stamp isn't very deep at all... I think I may need to purchase a maul or something... I can do normal tooling just fine with the rawhide mallet, but stamps and strap punches never seem to work well, and that's the only thing I can think to try. Thanks. I had a similar problem with "3D" stamps. I found that if it's cased well and I take the time to rock the stamp in the four cardinal directions I get a better impression. Quote
Members randypants Posted February 25, 2012 Members Report Posted February 25, 2012 It's died with Crimson Eco-Flow, and then Supersheen to finish as I mentioned. So antiquing will work on top of super sheen? I knew it was meant for similar things, but the examples I found weren't starting from dyed&finished leather. I'll have to head out to the Tandy and get my hands on some. The mark stamp isn't very deep at all... I think I may need to purchase a maul or something... I can do normal tooling just fine with the rawhide mallet, but stamps and strap punches never seem to work well, and that's the only thing I can think to try. Thanks. antiquing is SUPPOSED to go over your finish, so as not to bleed into or make the leather you've already dyed muddy. after applying your finish and it dries, you apply your antique. after that dries, apply another finish coat, or two. Quote
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