philippe Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 Should I send this unit back and get a bottom only skiver? Quote
CowboyBob Posted February 20, 2012 Report Posted February 20, 2012 Should I send this unit back and get a bottom only skiver? No,the top feed one is the best,but there is a few different manufactures of them. Does it look like a quality built machine?That is a real low price. Bob Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
philippe Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 Its Identical to Artisan and the others, very high quality if you like I can post some pics a little later. Nick at nick-o-sew says he gets his machines from the same place as Artisan, highly inspected quality control factories. It does look to be top notch but I honestly haven't seen any others in person to be able to tell the difference I am just comparing overall quality to my cowboy sewing machines from Ryan Neel. Quote
philippe Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Posted February 20, 2012 Its a little dirty from shipping and playing but its a nice machine nonetheless. Quote
Moderator Art Posted February 21, 2012 Moderator Report Posted February 21, 2012 No, I don't have a bottom feed and don't want one. The top/bottom feed will skive anything veg/chrome/latigo/deertan without changing to a steel bottom roller or any other modifications. You have the right machine, now you just have to learn to use it. Get a bunch of crap leather, cut it into strips, and practice and adjust until you can skive perfect edges. Buy a bag of scraps from Tandy and go to work. Art Should I send this unit back and get a bottom only skiver? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
philippe Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Posted February 26, 2012 Thank you to all of those that helped me. I have since figured out quite a bit in the last few days of turning scrap leather into "skived scrap leather". The main thing I was trying to understand was how to change the thickness of the cut, the instruction book and the shoe school video both say that the stone feed wheel on the bottom need to stay as close to the blade as possible with out it hitting the blade, and to move the actual knife left and right to adjust the thickness of the cut. I have found this is not what works for me. I move the stone wheel up and down to control ho thick my cut will be and I can also change the angle of the stone to adjust the bevel of the cut. The top feed roller will move up and down to adjust for the pressure depending on what type of leather I am using so it will send it through the cut evenly with out catching. I did learn that the sharpening stone does not move with the knife so I have to put it exactly where I want the sharpening stone to touch the knife edge, after I move the blade left and right. moving the blade left and right will compensate for thicker leathers to go through the cut evenly it is directly related to the adjustments used for the top feed roller. Now these processes may not be the "right" way but they are the way that I have found works for me. This machine is somewhat complicated to set up and use but once an initial calibration is made then setting it up for different leathers and such is fairly easy. I will be posting a video on this once I am fully aware of everything on the machine and have a much better understanding of the skiver. I am still trying to figure out how exactly to set it up to use as a splitter for smaller pieces of chrome tan and very soft leathers, as my Landis 30 will not do that unless I glue it to some scrap veg tan first. Again thank you all for helping me. Quote
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