What Is This Tool Called, And Where Do I Find It?

[Eemo]

greg,

please do! that would be awesome!

[greekgod]

If I am allowed to eavesdrop please??

[Snpr9696]

NIce info here

[jk215]

Ok so here is my soldering iron update. For an experiment I purchased a generic soldering iron with adjustable temperature gauge off amazon and tried to mimic the edges done by the more expensive fileutuse. I planned on buying the after market brass tips from China but they wont fit in the weird model iron I bought some Im stuck wit the stock pointed tip.

The first few attempts I had the temperature wayyyy too high and while it didnt burn the edges it did release some weird silver metallic specks all over. Dont know what that was but failed that attempt. Next time I kept the temperature very low and while it takes a lot longer it seems to work out.... ok. In the wallet below I have some Horween Cavalier as the outer shell and english bridle as the interior. Obviously the english bridle would traditionally burnish fine but the Cavalier does not. First I sanded and put a base layer of edge paint down and let dry. After the base layer I sanded again and went around with my edger. The dried paint actually helps the edging process on the softer Cavalier leather. Repainted a second coat especially over the parts I just removed with the edger and let dry. I then coated in beeswax and went over with the soldering iron lightly. A broad tip would have made this step a lot faster. i repeated another layer of edge paint and another round of soldering iron treatment. After I was ok with the outcome I added some gum trag and went over it with a plastic bone folder to get the final shine up.

In this photo the edge closest to you is "finished" and the other is untreated except one layer of edge paint. Im still very interested in purchasing the unit from Campbell Randall but they havent returned any of my inquiries about purchasing one.

[CampbellRandall]

I just came across this message. Unfortunately I could not find your email request, so I'm afraid it didn't make or it was filtered. Please send your inquiry to Dan (AT) campbell-randall.com and I'll respond immediately.

[thefanninator]

Following and still searching and learning...

[wayner123]

Have there been any updates to this?

[thefanninator]

I contacted Mando in France about the tool and fittings. It's still $600 + to get one shipped over here.

I'm still stumped about what kind of wax/paint is being used. I tried some Angelus leather paint but I'm sure it doesn't melt and smooth out like the material used with the filetuese.

I also contacted Peter Nitz about this tool. He took awhile to respond but did say he may start a blog in the future about leatherwork.

[malchik]

I'm using modified soldering iron with brass tips (from China) in combination with Tandy (Fenice) EcoFlo Proffecional Edge Paint (Section Lacquer). The procedure is: Traditional burnishing (saddle soap/water - not Gum Tragacanth!), than a coat with edge paint. Leave it to dry at least two hours, than apply heat treatment, sand it with sand paper 320, and final coat with edge paint. For smooth effect (like on Hermes stuff), sand it again lightly, rub some beeswax, polish with canvas, rub a paraffin wax and final polish.

[wayner123]

I'm using modified soldering iron with brass tips (from China) in combination with Tandy (Fenice) EcoFlo Proffecional Edge Paint (Section Lacquer). The procedure is: Traditional burnishing (saddle soap/water - not Gum Tragacanth!), than a coat with edge paint. Leave it to dry at least two hours, than apply heat treatment, sand it with sand paper 320, and final coat with edge paint. For smooth effect (like on Hermes stuff), sand it again lightly, rub some beeswax, polish with canvas, rub a paraffin wax and final polish.

Can you provide more details as to the mods done to the soldering iron? And some pics please??

[malchik]

Hi,

I did nothing special, just widen top of the rod so it can accommodate Chinese brass tips (which are wider than the ones supplied with it). For temp. regulation I'm using just external dimmer unit - less voltage - less temp.. So, nothing special, ordinary cheap soldering iron bought in Clas Ohlson/Biltema (Scandinavia) or Walmart or wherever you find cheap 16W SI. Some images:

1. Soldering Iron

2. Finished edge on printed calf

3. One pass with ink after burnishing, before heat treatment on J&E Sedgwick english bridle shoulder

4. After second pass with ink after heat treatment on J&E Sedgwick english bridle shoulder

Edited June 9, 2014 by malchik

[malchik]

Video showing how I did edges before (I simplified the process recently)

. Unless you want to se a whole video, jump 27:13 to see the process.

[EricIsaiah]

Malchik, looks like you got some great results from the modified soldering iron. I'll be attempting the same thing with a cheapo one I got off Amazon and the same brass tips from China. Most of the negative reviews for the iron say it isn't hot enough for soldering, so I'm hoping the temperature will be okay for finishing edges. If not, I may have to look into one of those dimmer units you're referencing. I'm no electrician, but it doesn't sound terribly complicated.

I know Peter Nitz, whose video started this discussion, uses Beraud edge paint, but I'll be giving it a go with Angelus. Has anyone had any success with this brand and heat treatment.

Thanks, everyone! This thread has been a lifesaver.

Edited July 31, 2014 by EricIsaiah

[malchik]

Malchik, looks like you got some great results from the modified soldering iron. I'll be attempting the same thing with a cheapo one I got off Amazon and the same brass tips from China. Most of the negative reviews for the iron say it isn't hot enough for soldering, so I'm hoping the temperature will be okay for finishing edges. If not, I may have to look into one of those dimmer units you're referencing. I'm no electrician, but it doesn't sound terribly complicated.

I know Peter Nitz, whose video started this discussion, uses Beraud edge paint, but I'll be giving it a go with Angelus. Has anyone had any success with this brand and heat treatment.

Thanks, everyone! This thread has been a lifesaver.

If is it not hot enough for soldering it doesn't mean is not hot enough for hot glazing since required temp. is lower than to melt a tin (about 230C - 450F). But, if is it to low, dimmer doesn't help since it is used to lower temp.

About edge paint, I'm using Fenice (section lacquer) made - Tandy used to sell it as Professional Edge paint. Works fine for my use. I doubt regarding Angelus since it's acrylic paint. I did some tests with some other acrylic paints without any success - at least in combination with hot glazing (just peels off the paint).

[EricIsaiah]

Cheers, Malchik

Yeah, that's why I picked this iron, because the temperature seems to be lower. My concern is that the non-adjustable irons are too HOT, not too cool. Mine is apparently 25w, so we'll see if that's too much. If it is, I'll have to look into the dimmer.

About the edge paint: I'll have to check out the other kinds of edge paint. I've never done this before so I just kind of assumed they were all acrylic for some reason. I'll give it a try with the Angelus, but if it doesn't work, I'll have to move on to the Fenice you're talking about. I chose Angelus because Lee05 said he uses it to finish his gator edges in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54013&hl=. I'm not sure if he uses heat in his edging, though.

Thanks again

[thefanninator]

I just bought a Weller soldering iron and it's way too hot. 25 watts and 900º F. I used it on Angelus paint. My results aren't bad but could be better with more time to dry, another coat or two and a little light sanding. I just rushed it.

Edited July 31, 2014 by thefanninator

[EricIsaiah]

I just bought a Weller soldering iron and it's way too hot. 25 watts and 900º F. I used it on Angelus paint. My results aren't bad but could be better with more time to dry, another coat or two and a little light sanding. I just rushed it.

But you didn't have any of the problems that Malchik was talking about with Angelus paint? The paint wasn't stripped off by the iron? How did you regulate the temp of the iron if it was way too hot?

Thanks

Edit: It seems jk215 was using black acrylic in his post on the previous page and I rather liked his results, so I'll just forge ahead with the Angelus. I'll post results after.

Edited August 1, 2014 by EricIsaiah

[thefanninator]

I would unplug it and wait a little if it was too hot. The Angelus paint tended to burn but with more coats it might be fine.

[Trox]

I have tried the cheap type of soldering iron with temperature control (but not with the same product as Malchik). I did not find time to build a proper heat control (as posted before). The problem is temperature consistency or the lack of such, the cheap irons getting to hot sometimes too. I have a friend that have used this systems for years (the LeatherGuru) He told me this right away, but of course I wanted to try and fail myself (as always) If I had the need for this system more often (working with chrome tan leathers) I would have bought a proper French "Filet Electric" tool. Or at least an accurate temperature control. With the proper tool there are a number of different product you can use, but with a few degrees wrong temp. and your work is ruined. If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

[EricIsaiah]

If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

What do you mean it doesn't have the right shape? I was under the impression that you just needed a wide, flat surface to speed up the glazing process. jk215 said he just used the regular soldering iron tip on his, and while it was slow, it seemed to work.

[malchik]

Cheers, Malchik

Yeah, that's why I picked this iron, because the temperature seems to be lower. My concern is that the non-adjustable irons are too HOT, not too cool. Mine is apparently 25w, so we'll see if that's too much. If it is, I'll have to look into the dimmer.

About the edge paint: I'll have to check out the other kinds of edge paint. I've never done this before so I just kind of assumed they were all acrylic for some reason. I'll give it a try with the Angelus, but if it doesn't work, I'll have to move on to the Fenice you're talking about. I chose Angelus because Lee05 said he uses it to finish his gator edges in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54013&hl=. I'm not sure if he uses heat in his edging, though.

Thanks again

I said I tried wit some acrylics (not Angelus) even I tried to mix acrylics with wax and other resins. Didn't work (maybe it was too hot) whe wax part went to smoke, acryl just peeled. It is logical after all, acrylics doesn't melt, polyurethane does (and it's part of Fenice paint). Main purpose of heat glazing (as far as I understand) is to melt edge paint s it can penetrate deeply into the leather. Angelus, despite it famous stickiness, doesn't penetrate leather at all...

[wayner123]

There are variety of different shapes that are from china on the bay.

[malchik]

I have tried the cheap type of soldering iron with temperature control (but not with the same product as Malchik). I did not find time to build a proper heat control (as posted before). The problem is temperature consistency or the lack of such, the cheap irons getting to hot sometimes too. I have a friend that have used this systems for years (the LeatherGuru) He told me this right away, but of course I wanted to try and fail myself (as always) If I had the need for this system more often (working with chrome tan leathers) I would have bought a proper French "Filet Electric" tool. Or at least an accurate temperature control. With the proper tool there are a number of different product you can use, but with a few degrees wrong temp. and your work is ruined. If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

My soldering iron is 16w (I believe) and I don't use any heat control (even I can use dimmer for such purpose). You have right, it is not precise at all, but you can compensate to certain degree with technique. I took me a while before I use to work with Chinese brass tips from ebay and soldering iron and I'm using it solely for edging. French stuff is, of course, much better but quite expensive if leatherworking is not your daily job After all Trox, I see you're living in Oslo (as I do) so you can drop and I can demonstrate my technique both on veg and chrome tanned leather (even combination of those two). It works well both with high end and cheap leather as well. The result is (booth look and feel) as on Hermés stuff

[malchik]

The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

I'm not using those tips for creasing since originally they are too sharp and cuts leather like cheese even on low temp. I didn't experimented a lot with those as creasers since I have traditional creasers I heat by spirit burner. Surely, for my purpose (I'm doing small stuff) this works perfectly well.

[EricIsaiah]

Thanks for all your input, Malchik.

All my supplies are arriving today, so I'll spend the weekend experimenting with the different settings/paint/etc.

Here goes nothing.