conceptdiba Report post Posted March 23, 2012 Hey everyone I'm currently following Bob Park's method on edge burnishing, though I sometimes torture myself with doing the sandpaper method (100 grit all the way to 2000 grit) to get an amazing edge on belts. I recently came across this video, and the tool being used at 2:07 and 3:42 and 4:12 is something I've never seen before. He appears to use it before stitching and after stitching; before the edges are painted or sanded, as well as after painting the edge. I would assume the tool is heated up. I'm looking for way to do edges like this, assumably with a wax of some sort, as sandpaper and Bob Park's method don't work too well for thinner leathers like those seen in the video. Can anyone shed some light on this, or a similar way to do edges like this with wax? Information on what wax and/or tools to use would also be appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) If you mean this tool, it's a heat or soldering iron with a flat tip. They come in electric or butane. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-PPSK-Self-Igniting-Soldering/dp/B001DIE9BO/ref=sr_1_54?ie=UTF8&qid=1332507879&sr=8-54 Edited March 23, 2012 by Tree Reaper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ouchmyfinger Report post Posted March 23, 2012 Where can I see this video? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted March 23, 2012 Where can I see this video? I turned the words "this video" in my original post into a link. Easy to miss though, but it's here: http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150131553076948 If you mean this tool, it's a heat or soldering iron with a flat tip. They come in electric or butane. http://www.amazon.co...2507879&sr=8-54 Thanks! Looks pretty similar. I assume he first uses it to minimize the slightly visible gap between multiple layers of leather, and then maybe runs it on a lower setting to melt the paint/wax into the edges of the leather. I'll have to look into it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted March 23, 2012 The "iron" is definitely a standard in the accessories industry over in Europe, I have also seen it used at Hermes and other high-end makers. You could accomplish the same thing with irons, usually heated on an alcohol burner or even a candle (I'm old). The coloring is usually "Yankee Wax" made by Renia. It has a lot of Carnauba wax in it I suspect as the only way to put it on is to heat the iron, maybe a daub of beeswax to finish? Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Chee Report post Posted March 23, 2012 I posted a similar thread on this topic and was able to find out a little bit more information. Take a look at: http://www.bimac.info/index_Page3097.htm And http://www.bimac.info/index_Page793.htm Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted March 24, 2012 The "iron" is definitely a standard in the accessories industry over in Europe, I have also seen it used at Hermes and other high-end makers. You could accomplish the same thing with irons, usually heated on an alcohol burner or even a candle (I'm old). The coloring is usually "Yankee Wax" made by Renia. It has a lot of Carnauba wax in it I suspect as the only way to put it on is to heat the iron, maybe a daub of beeswax to finish? Art I figured it was something similar. I used a burner and an edge iron for shoemaking, but as a first-timer, I had difficulty getting it to the right temperature (ended up either not hot enough, or too hot). Thanks for the info on the wax, I'll try and find some of that asap! I posted a similar thread on this topic and was able to find out a little bit more information. Take a look at: http://www.bimac.inf...ex_Page3097.htm And http://www.bimac.inf...dex_Page793.htm Andrew Awesome! Thanks so much for posting this. It looks like they're only a few kilos in weight, so I'll have to go ahead and order one. Never would have found this without you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted March 24, 2012 Cool video! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Chee Report post Posted March 24, 2012 Let us know if you get it. I'm curious as to how it works and how much it costs. Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lippy Report post Posted March 24, 2012 That looks like some type of wood burning tool/pen. FYI, burning a design into wood is called pyrography. Here's one link, http://www.woodburning.com When I was growing up "wood burning art" kits were a big deal along with "paint by number" kits. ;-) Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Chee Report post Posted March 26, 2012 FYI, I looked into the pricing for the Bimac burners and they are crazy expensive ($500-800). I called Campbell-Randall and they will be able to come up with something similar for a lot less money. I'm planning on giving their tools a try. Will see how it works. Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) FYI, I looked into the pricing for the Bimac burners and they are crazy expensive ($500-800). I called Campbell-Randall and they will be able to come up with something similar for a lot less money. I'm planning on giving their tools a try. Will see how it works. Andrew thanks for following up! I emailed them as well and received similar pricing. I was about to commit, but it seems like you might have found something similar that wouldn't require overseas shipping...? Please send me a PM and/or keep me updated on this. It appears there's a tip used for the bimac machines to mark edges (I would find this useful on softer and glossier leathers), so I hope the Campbell-Randal contraption would be similar in that regard, though it isn't a huge deal... Edited March 27, 2012 by conceptdiba Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Chee Report post Posted March 29, 2012 thanks for following up! I emailed them as well and received similar pricing. I was about to commit, but it seems like you might have found something similar that wouldn't require overseas shipping...? Please send me a PM and/or keep me updated on this. It appears there's a tip used for the bimac machines to mark edges (I would find this useful on softer and glossier leathers), so I hope the Campbell-Randal contraption would be similar in that regard, though it isn't a huge deal... PM Sent. Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lippy Report post Posted April 9, 2012 After sending Peter Nitz an email, he sent me this link to the tool. http://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=184 The website is in French, but he said they can deal with emails in English. Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 9, 2012 Hi Lippy, That link gives me "server not found". Art After sending Peter Nitz an email, he sent me this link to the tool. http://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=184 The website is in French, but he said they can deal with emails in English. Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted April 9, 2012 After sending Peter Nitz an email, he sent me this link to the tool. http://mando.fr/inde...category_id=184 The website is in French, but he said they can deal with emails in English. Cheers! Nice!! This site is very hard to navigate... thankfully in Canada, there's always someone around who speaks french, so I'll see if I can figure out which machine/attachments I need. Thanks for posting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 9, 2012 I have the firewall from hell on this machine, I'll try when I get home. Art Nice!! This site is very hard to navigate... thankfully in Canada, there's always someone around who speaks french, so I'll see if I can figure out which machine/attachments I need. Thanks for posting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lippy Report post Posted April 10, 2012 The Mando website is a bit goofy. It may take some time to load. Also, you might try a different browser or www.mando.fr The tools are in a section called "fileteuse manuelle" According to Peter Nitz the French call an edge crease a "filet" hence the term "fileteuse". To me, the "power supply" appears to be the same type used in pyrography/wood burning in Europe. It looks like Mando either makes or has made the special tips for leather. The trick would be converting the power supply to work on 110 ac for those of us in the USA. Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) The Mando website is a bit goofy. It may take some time to load. Also, you might try a different browser or www.mando.fr The tools are in a section called "fileteuse manuelle" According to Peter Nitz the French call an edge crease a "filet" hence the term "fileteuse". To me, the "power supply" appears to be the same type used in pyrography/wood burning in Europe. It looks like Mando either makes or has made the special tips for leather. The trick would be converting the power supply to work on 110 ac for those of us in the USA. Cheers! I've already attempted to email Mando about ordering. I am definitely needing clarification on the attachments/tips. Seems like there's even one specifically for using with croc, based on the description. Very confusing. Do you think a simple adapter would suffice, regarding the power supply concerns? I believe the specific adapter would be a 220 to 110 step-down adapter... Edited April 10, 2012 by conceptdiba Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 10, 2012 In the US, you would need a 110 to 220 step up adapter, or straight from a single leg of 3 phase, or across 2 legs of single phase 220-240. Need to look at the schematic for the box to be sure. Art I've already attempted to email Mando about ordering. I am definitely needing clarification on the attachments/tips. Seems like there's even one specifically for using with croc, based on the description. Very confusing. Do you think a simple adapter would suffice, regarding the power supply concerns? I believe the specific adapter would be a 220 to 110 step-down adapter... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conceptdiba Report post Posted April 11, 2012 In the US, you would need a 110 to 220 step up adapter, or straight from a single leg of 3 phase, or across 2 legs of single phase 220-240. Need to look at the schematic for the box to be sure. Art Thanks for the info, Art. Most of this stuff goes right over my head! I received a catalogue in English from them, and here's the info on the power unit: The double-apparatus unit (like the one shown in the video) has the following info listed: 230 V – 240 V 50/60 Hz 190 W. Does that help narrow it down for you? Thanks for your help with this. I wouldn't know where to start otherwise! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 11, 2012 Then a standard voltage doubler would do the trick. Just watch the power rating is enough, some of them are meant for little motors and the like, but 190W isn't a lot however, I would double that at least. You can make one pretty easily and the parts are available at most electronic shops. Art Thanks for the info, Art. Most of this stuff goes right over my head! I received a catalogue in English from them, and here's the info on the power unit: The double-apparatus unit (like the one shown in the video) has the following info listed: 230 V – 240 V 50/60 Hz 190 W. Does that help narrow it down for you? Thanks for your help with this. I wouldn't know where to start otherwise! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lippy Report post Posted April 11, 2012 Attached is a brochure PDF that was sent to me by www.mando.fr in response to my email about the "tool". It looks like the Mando tips and handles would work on these products made by Janik in the UK. http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage4.htm http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage5.htm http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/Pyrography/Pyrography-Machines--Accs/list.htm Cheers. Fine leather goods.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Chee Report post Posted April 11, 2012 Any idea on pricing for these? Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 11, 2012 Don't know for sure, no spec on thread size. The Mando unit is 0-20V output the Janik unit is 0-12V. Thanks for the pdf, Art Attached is a brochure PDF that was sent to me by www.mando.fr in response to my email about the "tool". It looks like the Mando tips and handles would work on these products made by Janik in the UK. http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage4.htm http://www.patrickfaleur.com/pyrography/wpage5.htm http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/Pyrography/Pyrography-Machines--Accs/list.htm Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
