What Is This Tool Called, And Where Do I Find It?

[thefanninator]

I just bought a Weller soldering iron and it's way too hot. 25 watts and 900º F. I used it on Angelus paint. My results aren't bad but could be better with more time to dry, another coat or two and a little light sanding. I just rushed it.

Edited July 31, 2014 by thefanninator

[EricIsaiah]

I just bought a Weller soldering iron and it's way too hot. 25 watts and 900º F. I used it on Angelus paint. My results aren't bad but could be better with more time to dry, another coat or two and a little light sanding. I just rushed it.

But you didn't have any of the problems that Malchik was talking about with Angelus paint? The paint wasn't stripped off by the iron? How did you regulate the temp of the iron if it was way too hot?

Thanks

Edit: It seems jk215 was using black acrylic in his post on the previous page and I rather liked his results, so I'll just forge ahead with the Angelus. I'll post results after.

Edited August 1, 2014 by EricIsaiah

[thefanninator]

I would unplug it and wait a little if it was too hot. The Angelus paint tended to burn but with more coats it might be fine.

[Trox]

I have tried the cheap type of soldering iron with temperature control (but not with the same product as Malchik). I did not find time to build a proper heat control (as posted before). The problem is temperature consistency or the lack of such, the cheap irons getting to hot sometimes too. I have a friend that have used this systems for years (the LeatherGuru) He told me this right away, but of course I wanted to try and fail myself (as always) If I had the need for this system more often (working with chrome tan leathers) I would have bought a proper French "Filet Electric" tool. Or at least an accurate temperature control. With the proper tool there are a number of different product you can use, but with a few degrees wrong temp. and your work is ruined. If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

[EricIsaiah]

If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

What do you mean it doesn't have the right shape? I was under the impression that you just needed a wide, flat surface to speed up the glazing process. jk215 said he just used the regular soldering iron tip on his, and while it was slow, it seemed to work.

[malchik]

Cheers, Malchik

Yeah, that's why I picked this iron, because the temperature seems to be lower. My concern is that the non-adjustable irons are too HOT, not too cool. Mine is apparently 25w, so we'll see if that's too much. If it is, I'll have to look into the dimmer.

About the edge paint: I'll have to check out the other kinds of edge paint. I've never done this before so I just kind of assumed they were all acrylic for some reason. I'll give it a try with the Angelus, but if it doesn't work, I'll have to move on to the Fenice you're talking about. I chose Angelus because Lee05 said he uses it to finish his gator edges in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54013&hl=. I'm not sure if he uses heat in his edging, though.

Thanks again

I said I tried wit some acrylics (not Angelus) even I tried to mix acrylics with wax and other resins. Didn't work (maybe it was too hot) whe wax part went to smoke, acryl just peeled. It is logical after all, acrylics doesn't melt, polyurethane does (and it's part of Fenice paint). Main purpose of heat glazing (as far as I understand) is to melt edge paint s it can penetrate deeply into the leather. Angelus, despite it famous stickiness, doesn't penetrate leather at all...

[wayner123]

There are variety of different shapes that are from china on the bay.

[malchik]

I have tried the cheap type of soldering iron with temperature control (but not with the same product as Malchik). I did not find time to build a proper heat control (as posted before). The problem is temperature consistency or the lack of such, the cheap irons getting to hot sometimes too. I have a friend that have used this systems for years (the LeatherGuru) He told me this right away, but of course I wanted to try and fail myself (as always) If I had the need for this system more often (working with chrome tan leathers) I would have bought a proper French "Filet Electric" tool. Or at least an accurate temperature control. With the proper tool there are a number of different product you can use, but with a few degrees wrong temp. and your work is ruined. If you need cheap bits for you iron, by the ones from Campbell Randall. The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

Tor

My soldering iron is 16w (I believe) and I don't use any heat control (even I can use dimmer for such purpose). You have right, it is not precise at all, but you can compensate to certain degree with technique. I took me a while before I use to work with Chinese brass tips from ebay and soldering iron and I'm using it solely for edging. French stuff is, of course, much better but quite expensive if leatherworking is not your daily job After all Trox, I see you're living in Oslo (as I do) so you can drop and I can demonstrate my technique both on veg and chrome tanned leather (even combination of those two). It works well both with high end and cheap leather as well. The result is (booth look and feel) as on Hermés stuff

[malchik]

The ones from Ebay are not the right ones (it does not have the right shape for the "filet tool", its for creasing lines on the edge of your wegtan leather only)

I'm not using those tips for creasing since originally they are too sharp and cuts leather like cheese even on low temp. I didn't experimented a lot with those as creasers since I have traditional creasers I heat by spirit burner. Surely, for my purpose (I'm doing small stuff) this works perfectly well.

[EricIsaiah]

Thanks for all your input, Malchik.

All my supplies are arriving today, so I'll spend the weekend experimenting with the different settings/paint/etc.

Here goes nothing.