Members Spincycle Posted December 1, 2012 Members Report Posted December 1, 2012 Just had a simpler thought. How many different diameter handles and such are going to be used? Drill a small hole off center in the ram and a larger hole off center in the same end? The same thing could be done on the other end of the ram. You could then have 4 different diameter holes, 2 on each end. Just flip the ram when needed. Obviously you would have to drill the holes based on the diameter of the tool handles to be used. This would be very cheap to do. You would have to hold the tools but you wouldn't be out of pocket much. And the end of the ram would still be a flat square. The trade off is accuracy and versatility vs. cost. Quote www.uncommonbicycleparts.weebly.com
Members lwm803 Posted December 1, 2012 Members Report Posted December 1, 2012 I simply centered a hole 7/16" in diameter and a couple of inches deep in one end of the ram. I cross drilled and tapped for a 10-32 set screw to lock the tools in place. I have used tools with 1/4" diameter and others with 3/8" diameter without a problem. The set screw simply pushes the smaller diameter tools to the side of the bore and holds them there just fine. As long as the tool is bottomed out before tightening the set screw I have never had a problem with tools trying to move around in the bore. I agree that the v grove and or a good slip fit bore would be more precise but with my limited tooling this was the best approach for me. Using a one ton arbor press with one centered hole in the ram and a set screw that is long enough to secure the smaller diameter tools seems to work fine for me. In my case the set screw only serves to keep the tooling from falling out of the bore when the ram is raised and provides minimal but effective support in keeping the tool vertical while the bottom of the bore is still just the solid ram which transfers the force to the tool. The Harbor Freight style arbor press works fine for me but it is not a precision machine. I see no point in putting a hundred dollar hole in a fifty dollar machine..... Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted December 1, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted December 1, 2012 Keep in mind that a press that small probably has a maximum height of about 5". Ram length MIGHT be as much as twice that. For my $.02, better to go with round hole no more than a couple inches deep, add bushings for different diameter tools as needed. Any machine shop can do this in 15 minutes. One more thought .. that same machine shop probably caries standard brass or bronze bushings. At about $5 apiece, you can get half a dozen of them all in (just for example) 1/2" outside diameter, then just bore the inside to fit the tool you want to use. This way, ONE hole in the arbor of the press fits all yer stuff and if the bushing ever wears out you just get another one off the shelf. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members GlenH Posted December 1, 2012 Members Report Posted December 1, 2012 For us non-machinist types, some pictures of what you're talking about would be very helpful. Also are you all just talking about using the 3D stamps or regular stamping tools? That is, what all do you use on the press? Quote GlenPresident, South Central Leathercrafters' GuildNashville, TN
Trox Posted December 2, 2012 Report Posted December 2, 2012 (edited) This is what they talk about, or what you can use this nice press for. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVyV3ZTVpqY Sadly this is not for sale in Norway, and I guess it weights a bit, will be expensive to ship from the US. I have a couple of screw presses for my snaps, rivet and buttons, nevertheless I want one for stamps. If anybody knew where to get one in Europe, preferable northern Europe. Please let me know. Edited December 2, 2012 by Trox Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members ecklund Posted April 8, 2014 Members Report Posted April 8, 2014 Here is a drawing and some pictures of my Arbor Press I made up last week. All the drilling & tapping is done with a 1/4 twenty inch tap and a number 7 drill bit. The press is 1/2 ton I got off ebay. It works great for leather embossing and general edge stamping on belts etc. Hope this help some of are fellow leather crafters. If you have any questions feel free to email at deneck@gmail.com. Good luck. Dennis Ecklund. arbor press table.pdfFetching info... Quote
Members BDAZ Posted April 9, 2014 Members Report Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) Ok, I don't get it??!! I use my 1 ton daily but have not had to modify it. I use the Tandy ram's foot for pressing 3D stamps and it works like a champ! I have a small piece of granite cut 8" x 12" and have a piece of aluminum stock held on by small C clamps as a guide. I did JB Weld this ramsfoot onto the end of the press but found it wasn't useful installed permanently. Cya! Bob Edited April 9, 2014 by BDAZ Quote
highnoonhunter Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 On 11/29/2012 at 4:47 AM, lwm803 said: At the same time I ground the bottom two teeth off the ram so the handle could ratchet when the ram is raised completely, allow me to reposition the handle without removing the pinion from the frame. That's an EXCELLENT idea! I find that sometimes my handle is in the wrong position for pressing. I recently purchased a 1 ton arbor press myself. The only modifications I have done it to remove the rotating plate and replace it with a 4"X6"X 3/16" thick steel plate which gave me more room under the ram. But I use regular handle tools such as the stamps with attached handles, splash rivet tools, eyelet setters and such. With the 2-D and 3-D stamps, I don't use a handle at all. I simply lay the stamp where I want it, and press it with the ram without using a handle. For my current tools, I don't have a need for having the ram drilled. I prefer to have it flat. Quote But first, before you can blow the bugle horn, or follow the hounds, you must be content to chase the woodpecker. ~Maurice Thompson-1878~ www.highnoonhunterleatherworks.webs.com
Members BDAZ Posted April 19, 2014 Members Report Posted April 19, 2014 I have seen a few 3D stamps and alphabets that have been damage by being pressed directly on the round fitting with the ram. The rams foot is cheap and effective, giving much greater surface area for the press. Cya! Bob Quote
ClaireAshton Posted August 10, 2014 Report Posted August 10, 2014 Went to pick a tool last week that I bought on Ebay. Saw he had a pillar drill press, "Er, any chance you could drill out my arbor press ram?". Posted off with my specifications, after my grinding off 2 teeth at each end, to his address. Just arrived this morning - spent all day doing test pieces, snaps rivets stamps - all a doddle. Then for the real test. Solid copper rivets, the ones with the burrs. Press down on the washer. Chop off the surplus then give it some serious pressure. Rounded off in the rounder offer - perfect. I had a 11mm hole one end 70mm deep, the other end 13mm hole 70mm deep and a 16mm hole 35mm deep. Bless him, he made me a sleeve to fit the 16mm hole to bring it all down to 13mm. Half a dozen 4mm grub screws to hold in the tools. Brilliant. Claire Quote <p>Best Wishes</p><p> </p><p>Claire</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Claire Ashton</p><p> </p><p>Leather</p><p>by</p><p>Claire</p><p>Shrewsbury UK</p>
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