Sovran81 Report post Posted April 2, 2012 I have a project coming up (strap harness) that I plan on riveting together and using a little hand sewing. I have been researching rivets. Solid rivets seem to be the way to go but I am worried about the rivets on inside of the straps chafing either from the washer edge or the peened rivet. Also the requested metal color is nickel. I found tubular rivets with rivet caps at Hanson Rivet. They are basically a solid rivet with a small tubular section at the end for peening inside the rivet cap. These appear to be just the ticket as the cap will cover the peened end. Has anyone used these type rivets or dealt with Hanson Rivet? I emailed them Frday and hope to hear from them tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busted Report post Posted April 2, 2012 I have a project coming up (strap harness) that I plan on riveting together and using a little hand sewing. I have been researching rivets. Solid rivets seem to be the way to go but I am worried about the rivets on inside of the straps chafing either from the washer edge or the peened rivet. Also the requested metal color is nickel. I found tubular rivets with rivet caps at Hanson Rivet. They are basically a solid rivet with a small tubular section at the end for peening inside the rivet cap. These appear to be just the ticket as the cap will cover the peened end. Has anyone used these type rivets or dealt with Hanson Rivet? I emailed them Frday and hope to hear from them tomorrow. Hanson is a very good company to deal with I buy rivets from them when needed. As far as using tubular rivets to put a harness set together with; I would never do that but that is up to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sovran81 Report post Posted April 2, 2012 @busted What rivets would you use for a finished look on both sides? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) FWIW, I use solid rivets from rjleahy.com. I have both solid brass and stainless steel. After peening, I use the domed section of the large rivet setter from Tandy to smooth out the peened end. Hope this helps. If you go with them, make sure you ask for an equal amount of associated washers with the order. Edited April 2, 2012 by Spence Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busted Report post Posted April 2, 2012 I would use the #9 or #12 copper burr but that is my opinion. You can use what ever you want to or what ever the customer dictates. @busted What rivets would you use for a finished look on both sides? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sovran81 Report post Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) Those are my first choice but I dont know what the back side of the finished rivet would look like. Do you have a pic of the back side of a finished rivet? @spence I had not thought of that. that might work. Edited April 2, 2012 by Joe M Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stelhrse Report post Posted April 2, 2012 Good Morning, Do any of you folks know of a chart or other media that explains what the differernt rivets, snaps, etc are and their application? I haven't seen anything like that anywhere but maybe I haven't checked the right places either. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busted Report post Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) I use the rivet on nose bands for the barrel racers. This is 5 layers of 10oz bridle it will not come apart. The flat head would naturally go on the inside of the harness so as not to harm the horse. Those are my first choice but I dont know what the back side of the finished rivet would look like. Do you have a pic of the back side of a finished rivet? @spence I had not thought of that. that might work. Edited April 2, 2012 by busted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sovran81 Report post Posted April 2, 2012 Thanks for the pic. I may have to rely on stitching and use spots or tubular rivets for the asthetics instead of combining the 2 functions. @stelhrse I dont know if it will help but the catalog Hanson Rivet has can give you some information. Its available for download as a .pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted April 4, 2012 Can I jump in here and ask....do any of you know how to UNRIVET? I'm working on a checkbook/ID cover, and rivited some suede that was to hold my checkbook and now it won't fit :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) Drill out the part of the post that is peened over. If you use a drill just a little larger than the post and go carefully, you can avoid damaging the leather. CTG Edited April 5, 2012 by northmount Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted April 5, 2012 Thanks CTG. I will do that. I'm such a dip sometimes...measure twice, cut once, measure twice RIVET once. Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted April 5, 2012 I've always had good luck taking a good pair of wire cutters and working at the peen. It has worked every time. I'm not confident enough to go the drill route. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted April 5, 2012 I decided on carefully handled tack pullers not braced against the leather. Didn't hurt the leather but the rivets went flying no where to be found (except with bare feet).I figured small drill hole, power tool and me? Uh, not so much, LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
