Steps And Products

[Ladyface]

Hello! One glance at my zero activity profile will tell you I'm new here... I know these questions have been posed before in a few ways or other in different forums, but after doing nothing but reading forum posts for weeks now, I still have questions, so I hope it's ok if I ask.

A little background: I'm making a friend a belt-like product that will be worn solely outdoors, and will definitely be exposed to the elements, including much sun. I need it to be waterproof - or close - and I'm not looking for super gloss, so I think based on what I've read, using the shoe polish after the resolene will help with that a smidgen. I'm starting with veg tanned cow, and plan to dye it black. I don't want it to crack, or the dye to fade, or to mix products together that will react negatively with eachother... obviously.

So...

1) Do I cut, edge bevel, make holes, tool, oil, case, dye, oil, resolene, shoe polish? I'm a little messed up on the dyeing and finishing. There are so many products, and it's not always clear what they're all for... I've read plenty to know which ones not to use earlier on, so as not to seal the leather before putting on the dye... My plan as it stands is to case (until no bubbles appear?) and dye using Fiebing's USMC Black; do it with one long stroke in one direction in a medium coating and let dry for an hour or two, then put a second coat on in the opposite direction in one long stroke; let that dry for 24-48 hours, and buff the hell out of it with a Kiwi cloth until I have no residue (or very, very little); then apply Neatsfoot Oil; let than dry for 24 hours and then apply acrylic resolene (I need it to be flexible too, and I've read that resolene is good for that); let that dry until it feels like being nice - days probably; and then buffing with black shoe polish and a kiwi cloth.. or maybe my fingers.

..I would love to try the mop and glo method that seems to be so popular.. and I've read a few times that oiling BEFORE dyeing will help the dye to absorb evenly... but would you oil then case then dye? Or Case then oil then dye?

2) There are a few loops, and flaps that I need to sew on (planning to do that with an awl by hand, using waxed linen thread from Tandy), so.. do I completely finish all pieces and then assemble? Or do I dye the leather, then oil it, and then assemble everything and put resolene on the final product...

Again, I apologize if these are repetitive questions... but rest assured I tried my hardest to get this out of the posts in forums... I just haven't been able to find anything conclusive.

[Dwight]

Ladyface,

Cut, sew, punch, lace, mold, . . . including beveling of all edges: these are the first steps, and can be done in what ever order works best for you.

I like to do a "first" burnish on all edges as I put the thing together, . . . I use only water.

You talked about "casing" the leather, . . . does not need to be done unless you are molding something into it, . . . or if you are stamping, tooling, etc.

If you use USMC black, . . . and you want a really good dye job, . . . forget the little 4 oz bottle, . . . get a quart. Also buy a cheap 9 x 13 non stick baking pan that's 2 inches or so deep.

Pour the USMC black into the pan, . . . put on rubber gloves, . . . and dip the belt in, . . . making sure to just kind move it through the product, . . . making sure it is in the dye for a good 3 or 4 seconds anyway. I start at the buckle end, . . . and slither it through the dye like a snake, . . . sorta.

Then lay the item down flat on newspapers, . . . flesh side down, . . . and leave it for about an hour. Take it up, . . . hang it up where air can get to it, . . . if you have a south facing door, . . . hang it between the door and the storm door, . . . let the sun bake it dry, . . . won't hurt it at all.

Go get a pair of canvas gloves (or other kind you don't ever want to be seen in public again with), . . . get a couple of old worn out wash cloths, . . . and begin the bufffing / burnishing process. You want to buff that leather, . . . all sides, . . . all edges, . . . until you take a white paper towel and have to rub really hard to get any more residue off the item. This is especially necessary for the hair side of the leather (smooth side). When you get done, . . . your wrists and fingers should be a bit sore.

Burnish the edges, . . . again with water only, . . . burnish them REAL smooth, . . . that is the difference between a leather butcher and a crafts person, . . .

Take a CHEAP one inch bristle brush, . . . NOT nylon, . . . pig bristle works real well, . . . mix up the Resolene, . . . 50/50 with water, . . . shake well, . . . start on the flesh side, . . . and slobber the Resolene on. Brush it until you get a "lather" looking foam come up, . . . all along the flesh side, . . . turn it over, . . . do the same for the hair side. When I do belts, . . . I start out with them laying down, . . . after a good coat on both sides, . . . I hang em by the buckle to finish.

You might want to take a scrap of leather, . . . dye and buff it (maybe 6 inches square) and practice your Resolene on it. The key is in the finishing strokes. You will put 2, or 3 wet coats, on, . . . one over the other, . . . getting a lather each time, . . . then quit applying, . . . start brushing out the bubbles, . . . left to right, . . . right to left, .. . up, . . . down,. . . sideways, . . . just keep lightly brushing until you have gotten all bubbles and the bluish tint of the Resolene gone.

After you have let this dry for at least 24 hours, . . . get a dauber, . . . come back and re-burnish the edges with pure Resolene, . . . you might not notice a great improvement, . . . but that extra coating helps keep the water out of the edges.

You can then do the shoe polish if you want, . . . but it will be darn near un-necessary. If I did use shoe polish, . . . I'd use the liquid "scuff kote".

Anyway, . . . good luck, . . . happy Easter, . . . and may God bless,

Dwight

[Charliewz]

Thanks Dwight, I am planning on making a black belt and will use this as a tutorial. Will be my first belt. You guys on here are soooo helpful.

Charlie

[Ladyface]

Ladyface,

Cut, sew, punch, lace, mold, . . . including beveling of all edges: these are the first steps, and can be done in what ever order works best for you.

I like to do a "first" burnish on all edges as I put the thing together, . . . I use only water.

You talked about "casing" the leather, . . . does not need to be done unless you are molding something into it, . . . or if you are stamping, tooling, etc.

If you use USMC black, . . . and you want a really good dye job, . . . forget the little 4 oz bottle, . . . get a quart. Also buy a cheap 9 x 13 non stick baking pan that's 2 inches or so deep.

Pour the USMC black into the pan, . . . put on rubber gloves, . . . and dip the belt in, . . . making sure to just kind move it through the product, . . . making sure it is in the dye for a good 3 or 4 seconds anyway. I start at the buckle end, . . . and slither it through the dye like a snake, . . . sorta.

Then lay the item down flat on newspapers, . . . flesh side down, . . . and leave it for about an hour. Take it up, . . . hang it up where air can get to it, . . . if you have a south facing door, . . . hang it between the door and the storm door, . . . let the sun bake it dry, . . . won't hurt it at all.

Go get a pair of canvas gloves (or other kind you don't ever want to be seen in public again with), . . . get a couple of old worn out wash cloths, . . . and begin the bufffing / burnishing process. You want to buff that leather, . . . all sides, . . . all edges, . . . until you take a white paper towel and have to rub really hard to get any more residue off the item. This is especially necessary for the hair side of the leather (smooth side). When you get done, . . . your wrists and fingers should be a bit sore.

Burnish the edges, . . . again with water only, . . . burnish them REAL smooth, . . . that is the difference between a leather butcher and a crafts person, . . .

Take a CHEAP one inch bristle brush, . . . NOT nylon, . . . pig bristle works real well, . . . mix up the Resolene, . . . 50/50 with water, . . . shake well, . . . start on the flesh side, . . . and slobber the Resolene on. Brush it until you get a "lather" looking foam come up, . . . all along the flesh side, . . . turn it over, . . . do the same for the hair side. When I do belts, . . . I start out with them laying down, . . . after a good coat on both sides, . . . I hang em by the buckle to finish.

You might want to take a scrap of leather, . . . dye and buff it (maybe 6 inches square) and practice your Resolene on it. The key is in the finishing strokes. You will put 2, or 3 wet coats, on, . . . one over the other, . . . getting a lather each time, . . . then quit applying, . . . start brushing out the bubbles, . . . left to right, . . . right to left, .. . up, . . . down,. . . sideways, . . . just keep lightly brushing until you have gotten all bubbles and the bluish tint of the Resolene gone.

After you have let this dry for at least 24 hours, . . . get a dauber, . . . come back and re-burnish the edges with pure Resolene, . . . you might not notice a great improvement, . . . but that extra coating helps keep the water out of the edges.

You can then do the shoe polish if you want, . . . but it will be darn near un-necessary. If I did use shoe polish, . . . I'd use the liquid "scuff kote".

Anyway, . . . good luck, . . . happy Easter, . . . and may God bless,

Dwight

Dwight

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your in depth response. I'll definitely be dipping my leather now. I'm stitch ammo loops and flaps to the belt... should I dye all the leather and finish it first so as not to miss crevices and whatnot... I'm assuming that's how I would do it... unless the dyeing buffing and finishing is all done after. Lucky for me, there's no actual shaping involved, save for the end where the buckle goes.

I was under the impression that I should use a very thin layer of resolene to avoid having the leather look like plastic and to also cut down on the tackiness... I've also read a fair bit of good things about Leather Sheen, but it seems that resolene is more flexible.

So in putting on the multiple layers of resolene, would I wait in between coats? Or once I get to the end, go back and start the next coat? As for the brushing on of the resolene, I'm not sure what pig would feel like.. but I assume you just mean soft (since nylon is frequently a bit stiff)? Would a soft hair, small paint brush (for artists, not painting walls) do the same trick?

It also sounds like I would apply multiple coats of resolene over itself, working into a lather each time.. and then brush out any bubbles AFTER all coats have been put on.

I just thought of something else: does it matter when I punch my holes for stitching?

re: casing: I'm not doing any tooling.. but the leather for the loops will obviously be rounded... if I finish the leather will sewing on the loops make the leather finish crack? Would I case the loop leather and sew it to the belt first, and then continue with the dyeing and finishing?

Again, thank you for your response. Happy Easter to you too

[Ladyface]

I forgot to add.. I'm not carving his name into it.. but he's asked if I could stitch his name into it. I was thinking lace.. If I could figure out how to dye lace silver, that's what I'd be doing. I'm under the impression that I can stitch his name at the very end.

@ Charlie: This really IS an awesome place, isn't it?? I've learned so much here. I love this site. I'm never leaving!

[Anacott Steel]

Heck Dwight. Every single freakin post you make I learn something new and valuable. Always ! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It's much appreciated.